New problem, ran rough then won't start. HELP

[Sloop0007]

Went to start my truck last night and it fired and was running really rough. Then it sputtered and died. Now it just turns over with no attempt to fire. Was running fine the day before. Brand new carb and intake 2 weeks ago. Ran like a champ. Parked it overnight and kaput. It rained really hard all day. I did go outside between showers to open the hood checking clearances on the newhheaders I was about to install. Noticed that when I opened the hood that the water on the hood ran down my firewall where all the electrical is. Did I soak something I wasn't supposed to? I tried again today after work and still nothing. Dry day, figured whatever was wet would have dried out by now. Thought maybe I flooded my new Holley cranking on it so I pulled one plug, wet but not too wet to where it wouldn't fire even a little. Please help. Is this a normal problem with wet conditions? All I can think is something is wet...

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Do u have spark at the plugs?
Did u soak the distributor?
Is there water condensation on the inside of the distributor cap?

[Sloop0007]

No spark. I just checked. No I didn't soak the distributor, no condensation under the cap. Its totally dry. The water (which wasn't much) ran down the hood to the firewall. My electronic ignition box is on the firewall along with every other electrical component. It really wasn't that much water, nothing was soaked. Just drops that had accumulated from the rain earlier in the day on the hood. I've never been good at anything electrical. Which is weird as I am a lineman working with electricity everyday. I'm stumped

[PwrWgnDrvr]

That's cuz electricity and electronics are as different as a Bigwheel and a Harley.

[Sloop0007]

Yeah I'm figuring that out. So where would be my next point of attack? New to all this...

[ozzie]

Condenser??? had a friend had hard starting, and then no start. turned out to be the condenser. Ozzie.

[wally426ci]

He has electronic ignition. Maybe go around and check all of your connections? Everywhere.

[Sloop0007]

OK, today I replaced the ballast resistor, distributor cap and rotor. Still nothing. Checked the ignition coil, getting 12 volts to it. Also ohm'd it out and getting 1.7 ohms which is normal. I pulled a spark plug wire and had my wife turn over the motor with the wire directly on the manifold. No spark at all. Is it my distributor that's bad or am I missing something? Welcome to antique auto ownership I guess...

[swptln]

OK, today I replaced the ballast resistor, distributor cap and rotor. Still nothing. Checked the ignition coil, getting 12 volts to it. Also ohm'd it out and getting 1.7 ohms which is normal. I pulled a spark plug wire and had my wife turn over the motor with the wire directly on the manifold. No spark at all. Is it my distributor that's bad or am I missing something? Welcome to antique auto ownership I guess...

Put a test light on the primary side of your coil and while cranking it should be flashing the light. If not, you will have to narrow it down to either the pickup in the distributor, or the ECU.

Mark D.

[wally426ci]

Yeah, the ECU could have taken a dump, especially if it's a Mopar Orange unit which I hear had problems in certain years of production.

[Sloop0007]

The ECU is actually a motor craft. Was like that when I got the truck. All right I'll try the test light and see what happens...

[PwrWgnDrvr]

It was the distr pickup coil in the one that gave me the same problem.

[Sloop0007]

Put the test light on there, nothing. Sick of all this trouble shooting. I have new stuff sitting waiting to install. Has anybody used a HEI dragonfire? Made by AIP electronics. Only $110 for the whole enchilada. Thinking serious bout buying one and do away with this old crap...

[Sloop0007]

Have I mentioned this truck is my daily driver? I gotta get it back on the road pronto...

[Hobcobble]

Have I mentioned this truck is my daily driver? I gotta get it back on the road pronto...

Check the pick up coil as Terry suggested. I had a similar problem with
a '79 W200. If you're going to install an electronic ignition, you might
want to consider the MoPar Performance E.I. kit. They're ~$229 complete.
I have one in all of my Sweptlines and my '67 R/T. Never had a problem
with any of them.
John

[Sloop0007]

Got her going, and just like they tell me at work, "that's what you get for thinking". I should of changed the cheapest part first. It ended up being the ignition coil after all. Thought I had that eliminated cause I had power to it and it ohm'd out in the correct range. But what I failed to check was voltage coming out of the coil . Oh well, live and learn. $20 and 5 minute fix. Thanks for your help guys. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future...

[Sloop0007]

It happened again. Drove fine for 5 minutes then started spitting and sputtering and eventually died. Haven't messed with it yet. Gotta tow it home first. Assuming its the coil again. What would cause it to pop the coil? Could it be the ignition control module? I was really happy then really defeated. This sucks...

[Hobcobble]

It happened again. Drove fine for 5 minutes then started spitting and sputtering and eventually died. Haven't messed with it yet. Gotta tow it home first. Assuming its the coil again. What would cause it to pop the coil? Could it be the ignition control module? I was really happy then really defeated. This sucks...

Did the coil "pop"? Meaning, have you tested it to see if it is no good?
I suppose it could be the ignition control module. Have you take Terry's
suggestion and checked the pick up coil in the distributor?
John

[oklamopar]

Some here may disagree with me but when i have a no fire on my ballast resistor mopar the first thing i do is bypass it by putting a 10 ga wire in place of resistor. Have gotten home with this temp fix. I now carry 1 extra in the "glove Box". just my

Also check all your grounds!

[nytemuvr]

Usually not the distributor pick-up, never had one go bad, but the orange boxes are notorious. I could never tell any difference from stock ones. You're a Mopar owner, you should be carrying a stock ECU, one from the car parts store or a for sure working one, ballast resistor, coil and a starter relay (not so important, you can jump those), at all times. My stock ECU from 41 years ago (Made in America) is my "go to" for testing as it still works. The big transistor on the outside of the originals are much bigger. Mother Mopar electronic ignitions are very reliable, sounds like you have water in the connections on the firewall, always goop some die electric grease in all the wire plug wells in the plastic or rubber plugs. The later 4-prong system is like having a back-up ballast resistor in one piece. And like the post before this....make sure you have everything grounded good.