Most Common Brake Rebuild Mistakes

[Cleanfingernails]

One of the features on my 1963 D300 camper with duallys I need to rely on most is the brake system, especially because of the mountains and amount of weight I carry. I considered a disk conversion, but instead want to fully rebuild my drum system, from pedal to shoe. But remember my nickname: Cleanfingernails. I ruin things when I work on them. So, what I do is try to educate myself on a topic, and then try to hire the best person I can find, but before he starts the job, I force him to read my research. So my question is, to fully redo my brake system, what are the most common errors I should try to avoid? Stated another way, if you were trying to rebuild my system to be very safe and reliable for the long term, but you had no arms, what steps would you demand that anyone undertaking the job do? Is there any place that sells top of the line parts?

[facechicken]

Stated another way, if you were trying to rebuild my system to be very safe and reliable for the long term, but you had no arms, what steps would you demand that anyone undertaking the job do?

Sorry i cant give you a good answer cuz i havent done mine yet, but that line made me laugh really hard at work today....i needed it too, i was having a bad day, thank you sorry i couldnt help

[daytb]

new cylders they are cheep new hard lines hold down hardware if avaliable at a good price turn the drums check make sure they arnt out of spec

[Hobcobble]

I'm not too sure as to the current availability of 6 lug
drums.
John

[daytb]

probly not very but you might need some diffrent used ones if the others are getting thin

[712edf]

I will add get new FLEX lines too. They may look good on the outside but the inner wall breaks down, allowing line expansion under pressure (spongey-ness), which reduces brake effectiveness.

Bucky

[Johninky]

Only disassemble one wheel per axle at a time. This way you have the other wheel to use for reference. Bench bled the MC before installing. There is a special tool used to reinstall those small springs that hold the individual shoes. Well worth the few dollars.

[Cleanfingernails]

Excellent start: in one day I got several great common brake rebuild mistakes--and a good laugh. But I'm guessing we are just scratching the surface. Put your thinking caps on and pretend you were going to explain a D300 1963 brake rebuild to an alien beamed down from Mars who had never seen a Swepty before...what mistakes could the Martian avoid by a little anticipatory advice from you? We have a wealth of knowledge out there--no tips are too basic. Also, this Martian is not afraid to spend money if it would decrease the chances of brake failure.

[robertob]

Here are my tips:

- buy EVERYTHING (spring kit, new cylinders, rubber hoses, brake shoes, self adjuster kit, drums, new master cylinder). Basically you want to be in a position where you pull off the drum and throw everything you see in the trash. Don't mess with rebuilding hydraulic cylinders.
- buy only USA-made parts where you can (Bendix, old stock Wagner, NOS Mopar). Some things unfortunately have to be China but try to minimize them.
- use only riveted brake shoes. Stay away from 'lifetime warranty' friction materials (you want them to be soft and NOT last so they don't eat up your drums)
- Convert to dual-circuit if you still have single-circuit 'jam jar' master cylinder
- replace hard lines if the nuts on the end are rounded off or if you see serious surface rust on any of them.
- Don't overtorque the hard lines!
- Take a digital picture of the brake when you pull the drum so you can put it back together.
- use the factory shop manual to make SURE you are putting it together right.

[digdoug]

Also make sure your retarded Martian puts the hubs with left hand threads back on the left (drivers) side of the truck (self adjusters are also directional,and a recommended replacement or upgrade). Another thing to check ,is that the padded surface of the backing plate that the brake shoes rest against are flat,not grooved.These pads should get a light film of anti seize on reassembly.

I hope your truck doesn't have a bunch of miles. As John stated, drums for your truck are cast from unobtainium.

[robertob]

Also make sure your retarded Martian puts the hubs with left hand threads back on the left (drivers) side of the truck (self adjusters are also directional,and a recommended replacement or upgrade). Another thing to check ,is that the padded surface of the backing plate that the brake shoes rest against are flat,not grooved.These pads should get a light film of anti seize on reassembly.

I hope your truck doesn't have a bunch of miles. As John stated, drums for your truck are cast from unobtainium.

I agree with that one except that these days the LH lug studs are hard to find. I had to replace mine with RH ones when I replaced the drums.

Then again if you can't replace the drums you'll have to keep the old studs anyway.

[soopernaut]

If you have left hand studs, make sure the person removing the wheel/tire doesn't break them off.

[Cleanfingernails]

Thanks everybody! So far I have 18 tips. Please add more, or let me know if I did not properly summarize your tip:

• Take a digital photo when you pull the drum;
• Use factory shop manual to make sure reassembly is correct;
• Disassemble one wheel at a time, so the other can be used as reference;
• Drums for a D300 are extremely hard to find;
• Buy only USA-made parts, such as Bendix, old stock Wagner, NOS Mopar;
• Pull off drum and replace everything you see:
  • Spring kit
  • Cylinders (do not rebuild)
  • Rubber hoses
  • Shoes
  • Self-adjuster kit
  • Drums (if condition is not too bad, have them turned; if bad, replace if replacement drums are available)
  • Slave cylinder
• Buy special tool to reinstall small springs;
• Use only riveted shoes;
• Install new flex lines;
• If you turn the drums, make sure they are in spec;
• Hard to find left-handed studs go on driver's side;
• Avoid "lifetime warranty" friction materials; you want them to be soft, not the kind that are hard and long-lasting;
• If you have a single "jam jar" master, connect to dual circuit;
• Replace hard lines if nuts are rounded off or rusty;
• Brake pads should get a light film or anti-seize;
• The padded surface of the backing plate upon which the shoes rest should be flat, not grooved;
• Bench bleed master before installing;
• Do not over-torque hard lines.

Any more?

[digdoug]

Thanks everybody! So far I have 18 tips. Please add more, or let me know if I did not properly summarize your tip:

[list
[*]Brake pads should get a light film or anti-seize;
[*]The padded surface of the backing plate upon which the shoes rest should be flat, not grooved;


Any more?

The brake pads should not get anti-seize,wrather the padded surfaces on the backing plate which the shoes rests against. Sorry if I was unclear.

[Hobcobble]

Just in case it hasn't been mentioned already....
The shoe [in each set] with the most pad surface goes
to the rear and the one with less pad surface goes to the
front. [Remember "Big Shoe Back" ]
John

[jimmy]

The guys are dead on. Use only good quality parts. Most parts houses have several lines. The cheap stuff is just that, cheap. The exception to this is the soft pads, as long as they are rivited. They don't last as long but the stop much better, they are quiter, and won't trash your drums.

Are you sure you don't want to Disc the front? Thats one nice RV. I think she's worth every cent you put into her.

One more thing would be to blead the lines before removing anything, this will keep you from pushing old scale & crap into new parts. Fluid is cheap.

One very common mistake I've seem over and over is to make sure the teeth on the adjusters are in good shape and the adjuster are not stuck or rusted. agian I think it was mentioned already but they are Left and Right hand threaded.

When it comes time to set the shoe adjustment adjust the shoes out until the drum just slides over the shoes, Never push or beat the drum on.
let us know how it turns out.

[Lowdown]

This is by no means a neccessity but Speed Bleeders (replace the factory bleed screws on each wheel cylinder) make life 100x easier when bleeding.

[Cleanfingernails]

Thanks for new insightful suggestions. I will update the list. In the meantime, any more suggestions? Ask yourself: If I was supervising a total brake rebuild by a mechanical rookie, what steps would I make sure he followed?

[Txas2step]

Are we getting paid for being deposed ?

[Seff]

Thanks for new insightful suggestions. I will update the list. In the meantime, any more suggestions? Ask yourself: If I was supervising a total brake rebuild by a mechanical rookie, what steps would I make sure he followed?

Well if you want to do that than just find a mechanic who knows what they are doing?