Radiator
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- Sweptline.ORG Member
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Radiator
I'm in the process of building a 360 with the horse power expected to be at 400 or a little more. the question is if anybody knows of a radiator that will replace my original one. If I was to guess, I would think a 3 row alum. would do the trick. also the new 360 will have a newer hi flow water pump. not the old cast iron.
- surfnuke9
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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Re: Radiator
dont be fooled by just the number of rows advertised on aluminum rads.
3 rows of 3/8 inch rows isnt as good as a two row with 1 inch wide rows.
its all about square footage of surface area.
also, dont get one that is put together with epoxy. get one that is fully welded.
3 rows of 3/8 inch rows isnt as good as a two row with 1 inch wide rows.
its all about square footage of surface area.
also, dont get one that is put together with epoxy. get one that is fully welded.
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- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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Re: Radiator
Sir
To "Up-Grade' your Radiator is much as already said, it is the volume of
air ( aka CFM's ) passing through it that makes or breaks the plan.
The MoPar Performance and others have printed information that is
enough to "Gag a Mule" on the best "bang for the buck" way to Cool
the Engine and to have the unit that uses the least amount of power.
Step one is to use a A/C Spec'd Water Pump.
Step two is to use the Thermo Silicone Fan Drive ( NAPA's #271-303
is what the replacement unit is called ).
Step Two "A" is to use a Seven Paddle Unit from any MoPar from 1980
to to 1988'ish ( these are under $10 at the local pick & pull's ).
Step Three is to use a Fan Shroud with the Radiator.
*************************************************************************************
Stop at your local pick & pull to get the Radiator and Shroud from any 1980
to 1988 New Yorker, Diplomat or the like styled MoPar that has A/C.
The Radiator's Out-Let Hole is on the Passenger Side just as the Alumin
Body Water Pump's In-Let is on the Passenger Side.
Rodger & Gabby
COS
To "Up-Grade' your Radiator is much as already said, it is the volume of
air ( aka CFM's ) passing through it that makes or breaks the plan.
The MoPar Performance and others have printed information that is
enough to "Gag a Mule" on the best "bang for the buck" way to Cool
the Engine and to have the unit that uses the least amount of power.
Step one is to use a A/C Spec'd Water Pump.
Step two is to use the Thermo Silicone Fan Drive ( NAPA's #271-303
is what the replacement unit is called ).
Step Two "A" is to use a Seven Paddle Unit from any MoPar from 1980
to to 1988'ish ( these are under $10 at the local pick & pull's ).
Step Three is to use a Fan Shroud with the Radiator.
*************************************************************************************
Stop at your local pick & pull to get the Radiator and Shroud from any 1980
to 1988 New Yorker, Diplomat or the like styled MoPar that has A/C.
The Radiator's Out-Let Hole is on the Passenger Side just as the Alumin
Body Water Pump's In-Let is on the Passenger Side.
Rodger & Gabby
COS
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- Sweptline.ORG Member
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Re: Radiator
GET YOUR ORIGINAL BEEFED UP TO 4 ROW AT A GOOD RADIATOR SHOP AND YOU ARE DONE.THAT TRUCK WILL NEVER OVERHEAT!
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- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- City: spencerville IN
Re: Radiator
I ended up buying a 2 row alum. rad. with 1" tubes, no epoxy, with billet fill bunge welded construction. and alum. tanks rated for 400 HP.
Re: Radiator
Where did you go to get your radiator
Re: Radiator
I 2nd what Junior above stated.
Re: Radiator
You can go to coolcraft.com they have a 3 row for 350 and a 4 row for 4....somthing .
Phone number is 888-587-7234.
Phone number is 888-587-7234.