1 Month/Tracks open etsweptster

[MountainMoparRobin]

I hope to make the couple of changes to become track legal and get out this year at least at Bandimere, maybe Pueblo also, I've got 3:55's & 3:91's here at the house

[quickd100]

I'm sorry but I forget what you've got in your motor/trans/ rear right now. I've run a 4.56 in mine for years on and off the track, also run 31" radials on the street so it runs around 3200-3500 rpm at cruise speed. I tryed 4.10's but my et's suffered.
I'm waiting for our track to open also. I fabricated a new trangulated 4-link coilover rear suspension for my wreck. It's been to cold here to take it out and 'play' and see how well it works. I'm also waiting to make a little trip out east to pick up a 2000hp land&sea dyno. No more guessing for me, I'm going to be able to dial it in before it goes back in the chassis.Dave

[MountainMoparRobin]

I'm sorry but I forget what you've got in your motor/trans/ rear right now. I've run a 4.56 in mine for years on and off the track, also run 31" radials on the street so it runs around 3200-3500 rpm at cruise speed. I tryed 4.10's but my et's suffered.
I'm waiting for our track to open also. I fabricated a new trangulated 4-link coilover rear suspension for my wreck. It's been to cold here to take it out and 'play' and see how well it works. I'm also waiting to make a little trip out east to pick up a 2000hp land&sea dyno. No more guessing for me, I'm going to be able to dial it in before it goes back in the chassis.Dave

my build is more for street wars, but, both me and my daughter are competitive driven people and she's 14, she does enjoy driving and you can see her eyes get as big as golf balls when I fry the tires at a stop sign. I expect to be in the high 13's may even hit the 14's when I first run it, The 3:23's help me keep from smokin the tires too much but it really hits its peak 3000-6000 RPM's, I mean the build was 1500-6500RPM's but from driving it when you kick it down you feel the fastes pick up between the 3000-6000 RPM's, so going to 3:55's it should help get the RPM"s in a better range to put out the horsepower and torque when its needed. it just has the B&M shift kit in the trans. the trip to the track, and a job, will probably lead to building it more

[quickd100]

The biggest performance improvement I made when I was just starting out with mine was a 10" TA converter. It literally turned it into a firebreathing monster, it still had nice street manners but once you nailed it, hang on. It went from 14.10 to 12.75 in the 1/4 with the converter change. Dave

[MountainMoparRobin]

I remember you telling me that before, and since everything else is strong, that could very well be what I'll do.

[etsweptster]

Unfortunately I'm still in Montana...been here since the day after our cruise! I got tickets for the Pinks All Out in Denver, so I'll have to be back before August! lol I should be running 11.60 in Denver with the few minor changes I'll be making, and maybe this time they will pick my ET class to run for the money.

As for the gear ratio deal, I run quicker with the 3.91s than with the 4.30s, but I do have the low gear set in my tranny which basically makes the low gear the same with the 3.91s as it would be with the 4.30s and a regular gear set. The two problems I have with the 4.30s is slight traction problem at the starting line, and I'm topped out at 1000 feet, so my mph falls off...guess I should through a big ole roller cam at it and spin some rpm! of course then I'd have to put a roll bar in it!

[MountainMoparRobin]

Unfortunately I'm still in Montana...been here since the day after our cruise! I got tickets for the Pinks All Out in Denver, so I'll have to be back before August! lol I should be running 11.60 in Denver with the few minor changes I'll be making, and maybe this time they will pick my ET class to run for the money.

As for the gear ratio deal, I run quicker with the 3.91s than with the 4.30s, but I do have the low gear set in my tranny which basically makes the low gear the same with the 3.91s as it would be with the 4.30s and a regular gear set. The two problems I have with the 4.30s is slight traction problem at the starting line, and I'm topped out at 1000 feet, so my mph falls off...guess I should through a big ole roller cam at it and spin some rpm! of course then I'd have to put a roll bar in it!

Your in Montana? I didn't know that, gettin enough snow? Pinks in August have you changed your mind about the roll bar"? A lady out east won Pinks all out in a Ford PU and she had the Roll bar in the bed behind the cab.

[etsweptster]

No, at least not for now. I don't want to cut 8 holes in the cab, and 2 in the bed. I have my dart for going faster, the truck will remain 11.50s for now. Maybe someday I'll change my mind, but I can't bring myself to do it.

Yes, plenty of snow up here, but the cold is the worst part. Can't wait to get back!

[quickd100]

I held off making up a roll bar as long as I could. Wasn't that bad though. I ran the back 2 braces through the rear window opening and got a piece of plexiglass and made up a new window that fit the bars. Better safe than sorry, at 11.50 one wreck is probably fatal without a bar. Dave

[etsweptster]

I held off making up a roll bar as long as I could. Wasn't that bad though. I ran the back 2 braces through the rear window opening and got a piece of plexiglass and made up a new window that fit the bars. Better safe than sorry, at 11.50 one wreck is probably fatal without a bar. Dave

Hey Dave, is your gas tank behind your seat? That's another snag that I think I would have to deal with. As far as safety goes, you are probably right, but personally I feel safer going down the track at 116mph than I do going 75 down the interstate...at least if I wreck at the track it won't be someone else's fault! lol

[backwoods]

Hey et, what front suspension do you run on your truck? Just curious as I am wanting to build something for the track and would like to know your comments. Thanks....

[etsweptster]

Hey et, what front suspension do you run on your truck? Just curious as I am wanting to build something for the track and would like to know your comments. Thanks....

The front is all stock, just removed a couple of springs, and replaced the stock dogbone swaybar links with homemade adjustable heim joints to adjust from left to right to help keep it level on the launch. I also made them about 4 inches longer than the stock dogbones to allow more travel before it hits the weight of the suspension. On the rear I flipped the springs to the bottom side of the axle, and added a couple of car leafs alternated in between the upper 3 springs....of course you have to cut the rear of the car springs down to make them equal length like the truck springs. I tried a pinion snubber, but it made the truck hop, so I went back to individually adjustable airshocks. I run about 40 more pounds of air in the right one than the left...keeps it launching level.

I don't know how fast yours will be, but mine only runs 1.60 sixty foot times, so you may need some better suspension than I run. I have the battery mounted under the bed behind the axle, and the class III receiver hitch adds another 50 pounds or so back there. Also, the 3 inch exhast adds some weight where I need it.

[quickd100]

I had ongoing problems with the stock fuel tank. Couldn't race without at least 1/2 a tank of fuel or the fuel pickup would be uncovered on launch and about the time it was shifting to second it would starve for fuel. The last straw was it started to plug fuel filters with rust. I bought a 15 gallon fuel cell and mounted it as far back under the box as possible. I've got 2, 140gph electric pumps in parallel feeding a 1/2" fuel line with a monster fuel filter in line. I've put 1/4 turn shutoffs on each pump and wired them separately. On the street I shut down one pump, no real need for it and the serves as a spare in case one dies, I can always get home.Dave

[etsweptster]

That sucks when you have rust problems in the gas tank. My old GMC truck was that way...couldn't run it very low on gas, or I'd be changing the filter. I have no problems uncovering the pickup. I have actually made a full nitrous pass, and ran out of gas on the way to the gas station from the track. I was still using the stock 5/16 fuel line when I was running 11.20s on the bottle(with the Nitrous teed out after the mechanical pump), and I was still running that fuel line when I was running 12.0s on the E85. I was a little worried about the extra 50 ponies with the new E85 motor, so I switched to a 3/8 line that I attached to a bung that I bolted in to the bottom of the tank. I took the nitrous system completey out of the truck when I switched to E85...don't want to get thrown off the track! Still use the mechanical carter race pump, and have had great luck.

On my 340 that turned 7200 rpm I would have to replace the mechanical pump every 2 years because the spring appearently would get too weak for that kind of rpm. I finally switched that car over to an electric, but I prefer the mechanical pump for street driving...no noise, and I don't have to have a back up like Dave has for those times when they quit working for no appearent reason. (I've had that happen on a couple of cars over the years) Since I only turn 6200 rpm with the truck motor, I've been using the same pump for 5 years now.

What kind of times are you running these days Dave? I'm sure you have posted it, but I don't remember. What are your 60 foot times too?

[quickd100]

Since I put the 528 in the truck I've been fighting chassis problems. One weak link after another. The old $300 440 ran 12.19 with a 1.595 60 foot carrying the front end about 6-8" off the ground. I ran the original 1960 leafsprings clamped using a pinion snubber and 10" slicks. I drop in the 528 and figured it worked pretty good before so lets try it again. Everything said 'Uncle', the springs wrapped up, the shocks topped out, and the slicks wouldn't bit. I ran it 5 passes, aborting 3 before the 1/8. I saw more of the guardrail than the track, it spun, slid, porpused all over the track and scared the feces out of me. The best pass on and off the throttle was an 11.26, a couple of the old racers that watched me said I was either the best driver out there or the luckiest. They also said they figured there was another second left in it easy.
This winter I ripped out the old leafsprings and built a trangulated 4-link with coilovers. It's also getting a NEW pair of LARGER slicks. The motor is coming out and going on the dyno before it see's anymore dragstrips.Dave

[etsweptster]

Sweet! Sounds like low 10s for sure! I'm going to try 275/60 drag radials this time...I have a lot of friends that are convinced I'll run quicker with them, but I'm not convinced. They are about 10 pounds a piece heavier than my Hoosier QTPs, but we will see. Size wise they are about the same, and I'm looking for more street traction than the BFG Radial T/As. Plus, it would be nice to drive to the track and not have to change tires before I run.

Keep us posted on the new suspension. Hopefully you won't need wheelie bars!

[MountainMoparRobin]

I had ongoing problems with the stock fuel tank. Couldn't race without at least 1/2 a tank of fuel or the fuel pickup would be uncovered on launch and about the time it was shifting to second it would starve for fuel. The last straw was it started to plug fuel filters with rust. I bought a 15 gallon fuel cell and mounted it as far back under the box as possible. I've got 2, 140gph electric pumps in parallel feeding a 1/2" fuel line with a monster fuel filter in line. I've put 1/4 turn shutoffs on each pump and wired them separately. On the street I shut down one pump, no real need for it and the serves as a spare in case one dies, I can always get home.Dave

As you have, and I know etsweptster has seen, I rund a fuel cell back where the spare tire was, I went with 22 gallon in an effort to be able to drive on trips more that 1/4 mile it, along with relocating the battery to the bed, has moved weight to help hook up, or at least with the 3:23's it will stop wheel hop, we'll see with the 3:55's

[MountainMoparRobin]

Hey et, what front suspension do you run on your truck? Just curious as I am wanting to build something for the track and would like to know your comments. Thanks....

the straight axle is a bullet proof suspension, I don't know if you've seen the video's but etswepster pull wheelie's off the line, so unless your pushing massive amounts of HP, the straight axle will do more than you expect, and ITS LIGHTER THAN IFS

[wideblock]

et, on your tire situation. i ran hoosier's on my last street/race car. they were 275/60/15's that were actually rated for snow and mud. they had a tread that looked like street tread, but deeper. they worked great on the street, and when they got hot after a burn out they stuck like glue. i took them to the local tire shop and had the sliced and diced, i think they call it sypeing or something like that. supposed to give you better wet weather traction, it works real good for track traction as well. i liked them a lot better then the street legal drag radials. one trip on a wet day will turn you against the drag radials.

robin, try the 3.91's. i ran them forever on one of my rides, 65mph at 3000rpm with a 30" tire allows you to cruise most freeways, but it really got off the line like a bad dog. when i swapped to the 3.55 i lost a lot of the off the line grunt. i did gain in the highway area, but off the line i would spin like a beast and not grab traction till i was rolling 10-15mph. 4.10's were too low, it ran out of steam too fast and put me falling short of the traps. this was on a well built 440 shifting at 5800-6000rpm, 727 with a 2800 stall and shift kit, 8.75 rear end with 30x9" tires. i will say when i was running 28" tires the 3.55's performed a little better but still not as well as the 3.91's. if my memory serves i was running 12.20's and burning thru the traps at 5300rpm in third. one other thing, have you tryed the old school slapper bars? i was surprised how well they worked on my 66. put them on for looks, good old chrome lakewoods, but they actually surprised me at how well they worked once i got the adjusted to the trucks liking. on my nova we made our own traction bars. very very similar to the dodge hpp bars. welded brackets to the bottom of the axle, and ran the link to the front spring eye. used some hiems on either end. thru the front eye i ran a longer bolt with a home made spacer to put the link straight. it acted the same as a slapper bar does, but by going to the front spring eye, or even furthur forward if you like, as the axle tries to wrap up its lifting the vehicle from a furthur forward area planting the wieght harder on the tires. also replaced the front spring eye rubber bushing with a bronzed bushed aluminum ones to eliminate some of the flex the old rubber gave. the nova is very very limited on wheel space. so we had to pull every trick we could to get it to plant the power to the pavement.

[quickd100]

I run 275/65R15's on the street and I can smoke them at any speed under 70. I made up a set of 'caltrack bars and used a set of the Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks also. Nothing helped, at the hit of the throttle the shocks would top out and unload the chassis. I called Calverts Racing to order a set of monleafs for my truck. After telling them what it was for they told me they made nothing that would work for me. So now the whole works is laying in the bed of my work truck, I made up a triangulated 4-link with coilovers, hope they work now.
As for gearing, I ran 3-4 different combinations in 440's through the years in the truck. Everyone of them prefered 4.56's, (I ran 29.5-30" tall slicks). The motors usually trapped around 6000-6300. I tryed 4.10's a couple different times and the truck always ran slower with them. I ran everything from 7.4-1 to 11.26-1 compression, cams used were the MP 484, 509, 528, 557, and the 590. I tryed a modified 750 AFB, 850 holley dp, a BG 1140 dominator, and 2x4 625 hemi AFB's.
One of the larger jumps in performance I made was the installation of the fuel cell, 3/8" fuel line, electric pump, and ram air. Those changes netted me .33 et reduction . Dave