Non-op running lights (long)

[demulsion]

Just posting here to clear my mind, and make sure I'm on the right track.

It started out innocently enough this summer, with the driver's side tail light not working on occasion. My brother was following me once, and said every time I went over a cattle guard the light would turn off, or on again. Later both tail lights started doing it. Now it's gotten to the point where it's a rare occasion if they work at all. The passenger side front parking light has joined the club as well.

All headlights, brake lights, and turn signals work as they should.

I cleaned all the lamp sockets. Replaced the blown tail light fuse. Replaced the headlight switch with a used, and then a new one from NAPA. Added grounds from the lamp sockets to the buckets, and from the buckets to the bed (on the rear). Cleaned the grounds on the parking lights. Traced all the wiring, looking for breaks and bad connections. Repaired the poor splices for the trailer pigtail. Replaced the breaker (on the kick panel next to the headlight relay). NAPA couldn't cross the part #s on the headlight relay tonight, but I don't really think that's my problem anyway...

My last ditch is to add a nice big bed-to-frame ground strap. I've run out of ideas after that, and will probably run a new wire from the headlight switch, to the back of the truck. However, neither of those will address the front parking lights. (I haven't had bulbs in the side marker lights recently, to know if they're in on this party or not.)

Am I missing something (other than lights, haha)?

[CSS-Registry]

sounds like you're on the right track. i would ground everything just as you're doing and then start tracing wires.

when i wired my truck with a Ron Francis harenss they stress over and over the importance of proper grounding.

i bought their Grounding Kit and wired it up along with the main harness...

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GW-34

the taillights and running lights in my truck are really bright and when the brake lights come on you will notice them... they are VERY bright...

also be sure to use dielectric grease on your connections.

Ben

[BrowneBlue]

I just used a common old wire to ground the lights. I'm sure there is a more appropriate gauge. Connected the box (can't remember where just now) to the frame.....and then, for extra measure, a wire from the battery to the frame up front. No issues anymore!

[surfnuke9]

My Ute is doing this exact same thing.....

[demulsion]

Add the hazards to the list now...

Hoping to get a chance to work some more on it this week. Last week I was distracted having to replace the alternator, voltage regulator, battery, and starter... p.s. Yes, it is possible to change starters without removing a header.

[F6866]

Corrected the same problem with grounds.

Cleaned

Engine to cab
Battery to engine

Replaced or added

Cab to frame
Cab to bed
Bed to frame
Bed to tailight cans
Park lights to radiator support
Horn to raditor support
Radiator support to fender and cab

[demulsion]

F6866 Thanks for the reply, that is very helpful. What size wire did you use? I hope to get things squared away this weekend.

[F6866]

I used 12 on everything except the individual lights there I used 14.

[demulsion]

Spent a few hours tinkering today. Replaced the 4ga battery/engine cable, as well as ran another 4ga wire for battery/frame. Replaced the block/cab ground wire with a 10ga strap, and added a 10ga strap for bed/frame. Then I bolted 16ga wires from each lamp bucket directly to the frame. The only change I managed from all this, is that I no longer have a driver side brake light... I'll have to check my connections on that one tomorrow.

When messing with my hazards a couple days ago, I figured out they work properly if I have a turn signal on, but don't work if not. So I pulled the steering wheel, but it appears the p/o replaced the turn signal switch, so that all looks good. The only constants here, are that the driver's parking light always works, and the passenger's never does. Both rear running lights come and go...but mostly just go.

I still need to ground the front parking light sockets/buckets, and then pull out the test light and start chasing wires. Fun...

[Jeffc]

Since you seem to have grounded everything that should be grounded..........
I would have started with below frist, if your not getting power to each
socket---- then it is not a ground problem.....however, it is a good thing to replace
ground wires every so often.....

I would start at each socket and work back to the bulk head connectors, looking for weak
spots like the light plug harness for a camper and/or trailer that someone put may have installed years ago, cleaning every plug (di-electric grease is great stuff), renewing or removing any splice you may find....I have found may
times that it's the rat's nest of old wires that was installed for these plugs that cause all kind of
problems, esp if they were not installed with care..... also if the fuse box is at all rusty clean both sides of the contact points were the fuse bridge (I like to glass bead them).....check fuses on both sides with your test light
as I have found fuse sometimes look good but do not pass power across...

[Trailmaster]

When messing with my hazards a couple days ago, I figured out they work properly if I have a turn signal on, but don't work if not.

That sounds like a bad 4 way flasher. Try changing out with the t/s flasher and see if the 4 ways work then.