Help with carburetor replacement.

[Hewy]

Now that I got the valves adjusted and timing zeroed in, I'm turning my attention to the carb.
Here is what going on.
After warm up, the engine will stall or sometimes will increase rpms without any change in throttle position, so I'm suspecting a vacuum leak. At the times at high revs pulling up on the accelerator the rpms will drop, but not always. Sometime the rpm will not drop.
Does that sound like air leaks ? I'm wondering if the carb body has worn at the butterfly shaft allowing increase of the air/fuel mixture (leaning out therefore stalling )
Should I change the carb? If so what other choices are available other than the stock Stromberg WW ? Or is shaft rebuild kits out there ?

[JimKoz]

Your throttle shaft is probably wobbling about due to worn or loose parts. First of all, you'll probably find that the throttle body is significantly worn, just as you suspected, requiring bushings to be installed. Any good carburetor rebuilder can do that for you, and there are kits available for some carburetors...but I'm not sure about the WW. A worn throttle body will cause a vacuum leak, but the larger issue is that the throttle blades keep shifting position. That causes a fluctuating idle speed and strange off-idle operating characteristics. Another problem area is the peened end of the throttle shaft where the throttle bracket mounts. Sometimes the peened end gets loose, allowing the throttle to open & close a bit on its own. Inspect the rest of the throttle linkage for wear & binding further upstream, as well as the location of the throttle return spring. The return spring should connect to the throttle bracket on the carburetor, not to any of the rods or levers upstream.

On 318 engines, the Stromberg WW was replaced by the 1-1/4" Carter BBD, and then by the Holley 2280. They both have the same bolt pattern as the WW, but there may be choke and throttle linkage issues to iron out. The 2280 was part of Holley's "Economaster" line, and had some odd vanes in the booster venturis that aided fuel atomization. I've heard that the 2280 is the better choice for replacing a WW or a BBD.

When the WW on my '68 318 wore out, I took a little different path. I discovered that Jeep once used the Carter BBD (same pattern as the WW) on their 258 cid straight-6, and a kit was available to install the Weber 38/38 DGES on that engine. It was pricey, but the kit included a carburetor, an adapter, a bell crank, a mounting bracket, and some other odds and ends. All I had to do was flatten-out the mounting bracket for the throttle bell crank. The throttle linkage hooked right up, and the choke was electric. I eventually re-jetted it leaner, partly because I live at 5000-feet, but mostly because the carburetor is calibrated for smaller engines than the 318. Luckily, you can change the jets on that carburetor in under a minute without disassembling it.

[Hobcobble]

John

[Daddiojoe]

I'll second that, Hobcobble. Nice post, Jim. I'm running a slant six and have gone through a lot of heartache finding a Carter BBD w/o the throttle shaft problems. Try to get NOS, if you can. Or the Weber, which has a better reputation than the Carter. But probably as pricey at the NOS Carter.

You might want to go with a Holley 390 4BBL or even a 650 Edelbrock. Are you running a Poly? I think there are a few (very few) 4bbl manifolds out there.

Best of luck,

Joe

[Hewy]

Thanks for replies. I want to stay with a stock 2 barrel carb and I think my best bet is to have the WW body shaft sleeved. I did look at the peened end , as Jim guided me, it seems tight but noticed fuel dripping from the other end so we are right..... worn shaft. The poly runs very nice just added an oil pressure gauge and an oil temp gauge. Pressure is about 55 at start and steady at 40 + warmed and running
One more question. My truck has a vacuum pull off and the original choke knob and cable are missing. Were all 64s manual choke ????

[wally426ci]

I have extra, correct, accelerator pumps for the Carter BBD. Im not sure if its the same as the stromberg one. I was just offering b/c when i bought my kit for the carter, it had the wrong accelrator pump with it.

[Hewy]

I have extra, correct, accelerator pumps for the Carter BBD. Im not sure if its the same as the stromberg one. I was just offering b/c when i bought my kit for the carter, it had the wrong accelrator pump with it.

That's interesting, I had forgotten about the pump. I bought a rebuild kit from Napa and the pump shaft was not the same but I figured that they supply the kits to fit a variety of Strombergs and who knows what previous owner did.
Could be a problem under load, but idling too ??? hummmm
Hope someone noticed request about manual chokes being stock in my previous post.

[Hobcobble]

Hope someone noticed request about manual chokes being stock in my previous post.

Yep.... I saw that but I'd only be guessing.... I wonder if the '64 FSM has anything on
automatic chokes in the carb section?... that might be a good indicator.
John

[wally426ci]

Well, on mine, the shaft was a round rod. The kit came with a newer style flat bar type that doesnt fit through the top of the carb. let me know if you need one.

[Hewy]

Well, on mine, the shaft was a round rod. The kit came with a newer style flat bar type that doesnt fit through the top of the carb. let me know if you need one.

The NAPA kit has the same round rod but the grooves were not the same as I recall

[paizao99]

This is a great thread. Am I the only one having troubles keeping the WW Stromberg adjusted and running correctly?

[wideblock]

strombergs, in my experience have either been good or bad, no middle ground. once they go bad, its impossible to make them good again. im lucky, i live 14 miles from pony carbs, the are a carb restoration shop and can blue print any carb made. they are a bit pricey for most, but you get what you pay for. beyond that extreme, start looking for a good carter. if you want to keep 2bbl, there are a lot of options out there. we got a 64 here in town running a rochester 2bbl on it and the guy swears its the best thing he ever did. if you go 4bbl, do not run a 650 as suggested. stay at the edelbrock 500 or your performance will be lessened, not made better then the 2bbl. the next one i get, im gonna try the rochester and see if its as good as claimed. its a slightly larger cfm, so it should be an improovment. holley makes a nice 2bbl that can be converted to work as well, i think its even 450cfm which should be damn near perfect for the old bird.

as far as the choke goes, there should be a cast in choke well on the passengers side of the intake that has a heat coil in it and a rod that connects to the carb choke butterfly. if that is not there then it was manual choke. no such thing as electric choke on these trucks.

[paizao99]

Wow, Trey, I really like these Pony Carb guys. Their video really sells their services. Have not called them yet, due to the weekend, but maybe you or someone could answer a question about this link:

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default. ... oreandcore

Is that Holley 2300 (Tri-power), or any of the carbs on that page, applicable to a 1964 D200 318 poly, which currently has a lousy Stromberg sitting on it?

Thanks, Brett

[wideblock]

if you can find it, and have deep pockets, there is a 3 deuce manifold made for the poly. they are hard to come by, and you really need a better build then stock for it to work properly. a 4bbl and a 500 eddy carb works very well. i have run 3 on different trucks with great success. im itching to try the 400cfm holley 2bbl, but it may be a while till i get another poly to play with. the stromberg is a good carb when its right. a good strom will out do a carter. but, finding a good one, without spending the cash for a pro rebuild is very very hard. there are so many options, if your up for a couple mods, but if you call pony they can tell you exactly what cores they have, and what they can do with your core if you like. if you stay 2bbl, id just get a good carter. autozone still sells them, ask for a 68 318 carb. its not a poly carb, but the L.A. carb in 68 seems to be smoother and a lot more reliable then the stromberg. now, it will have extra vaccume lines you dont need, but a simple plug here and there and your in business. any carter 2bbl for that matter will bolt on. linkage may need to be tweaked, but if you go to an early to mid 70's carb, you can score electric choke...

[paizao99]

Just talked to Pony Carbs and will have them rebuild my Stromberg. They got a really good business model. Pricey, absolutely, but a good working carb sure would help this old truck purr, and that is worth the extra. Thanks for the reference.

[wideblock]

it will be better then new when you get it back. i had them redo my packard carb, it was pre tuned, so only fine tuning to my car was needed. car never ran better.

[Nappers]

Hate to bring up an old thread, but my son's 67 D100, 318 has the ill fated Stromberg that I rebuilt (Napa Rebuild kit) and it doesn't idle worth beans. I did find how to adjust the rod for the throttle shaft (doesn't have lower clip) and attempt that and re-adjust the idle screws.

In the meantime, I like the Rochester 2BBL option for the truck. What model number should I be looking at and any major modifications to throttle linkage/choke.

I found some Rochester 2BBL's just not sure which one to look at. Pretty cheap too.

Thanks.

Aaron

[JimKoz]

In the meantime, I like the Rochester 2BBL option for the truck. What model number should I be looking at and any major modifications to throttle linkage/choke.

I found some Rochester 2BBL's just not sure which one to look at. Pretty cheap too.

I think that would be the "small base" Two-Jet carburetor, model numbers 2G, 2GC, and 2GV. Chevy was first to use them in 1955 on the 265 V8 and the last to use them in 1972 on the 307 V8. In the meantime, almost everybody but Ford used them at one time or another.

There is also large-base version that you'll want to stay away from. It came out in the late 1960s and continued through the late 1980s.

[Nappers]

Thanks, did a search on Ebay and found some of the carbs you listed and some brand new and electric choke kits to put on them for less than 200 smackers!

Now to tell my boy to get a job!

Gonna give the old WW a last chance to shine but we'll see. I did find a crack at the rear of the base for the PCV valve and gonna epoxy that up, could be the source of my problems with vacuum leaking there, it's cracked pretty good.

It sure is fun to work on these old trucks though!

My (sorry) 64 Chevy truck is down and out and miss driving/working on her.

The D100 is a great truck to work on.

[Nappers]

Okay gang!

The truck won't idle worth beans, it won't idle below 1100 RPM's. The second I put the idle screw below that, it dies. The throttle response is great and I adjusted the rod to the throttle lever to specs and the float is up to specs. I have to turn the mixture screws out until they almost fall out. I can't check the timing when it won't run below 1100 rpms. I put a new vacuum advance on the distributor. I have great vacuum at 1000rpms, around 22 or so. At 1100 rpm's it seems to run fine.

There is a lot of play in the throttle, is there a fix it kit that I can drill out the throttle and put bushings in there? The truck has a slight stumble at idle and the motor shakes. I had a neighbor, an old guy who told me I may have a burnt exhaust valve somewhere and should do a leak down test. I don't have the capabilities to do that, but he suggested to do a compression test, spin the motor 3-4 times and record the readings and may find the culprit (I do have a compression checker).

I rebuilt the carburetor and figure I rebuilt it correctly. I always had troubles with it. After spraying around the carburetor and intake with cleaner it did run a little better (at the base of the carb at the throttle blade rod). The carburetor base had a crack where the PCV port is and I epoxied it and let it cure for the 24hr as it suggests and put it back together. It helped with the stumbling but not the idle. There is absolutely no stumble when giving gas.

Should I call it a day and toss it or try to fix the throttle blade rod (whatever it's called.....).

I have a lead on a NOS Stromberg WW for 139 bucks and may consider that or put a Holley 2300 or a Rochester as the Holley has a bigger base and need an adapter for it. I don't have the money right now to put a new manifold and put a 500cfm Edlebrock 4bbl on it or other similar set up. It's my boy's truck and I just want it to run at idle and not at 1100 for gas savings purposes.

Thanks for the help, sorry for the hi-jack :D

I also want to mention that I did replace the fuel filter and seems to have plenty of fuel. I did have a fuel starve at the top end, hence my re-checking the float (I had it to low) now, it runs as fast as you want to go, just won't idle.....

Thanks again.

Aaron