Stainless Drip Rail
- ArtfulDodger
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Stainless Drip Rail
Does somebody out there know what was required to have a Stainless drip rail on a D100?
My 71 has midbody trim full length as well as wheelwell and above the rocker panel molding, shiny grill and chrome bumper. No stainless trim in either windshield weatherstrip.
I have seen other with the shiny drip moulding, but no side trim.
What gives?
My 71 has midbody trim full length as well as wheelwell and above the rocker panel molding, shiny grill and chrome bumper. No stainless trim in either windshield weatherstrip.
I have seen other with the shiny drip moulding, but no side trim.
What gives?
Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Lc from PA the drip rail was an option on Adventuer trucks dont know if it could be ordered separte









Re: Stainless Drip Rail
That was standard on Adventurers and optional on any other truck. It's kind of unusual for a truck to be equipped like yours and not have the drip rail trim but it could have come that way. The side trim could be dealer installed but I doubt that the drip rail trim could be, or would be since you have to remove the windshield to install it. Rust formed around and under the drip rail stainless so it could have been removed for a fix and not replaced. Trucks that never had it have a short cover piece on the drip rail just above the vent window that is welded on while trucks with stainless have a short piece that is screwed on.
The shiney piece that was in the center of the windshield and rear window rubber was a clear vinyl over tin foil that is made onto the lock strip. That was also standard on Adventures and optional on the others. It wasn't very sturdy and peeled and faded over time. I used NOS lock strip on mine but I think the aftermarket ones from RS or Steele look and hold up better.
The shiney piece that was in the center of the windshield and rear window rubber was a clear vinyl over tin foil that is made onto the lock strip. That was also standard on Adventures and optional on the others. It wasn't very sturdy and peeled and faded over time. I used NOS lock strip on mine but I think the aftermarket ones from RS or Steele look and hold up better.
1969 Adventurer W100
- cbody70
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Russ wrote: I doubt that the drip rail trim could be, or would be since you have to remove the windshield to install it.
Russ: Not sure what you mean since I installed mine with the windshield in place?
Fred - "Oscar" 1969 Fargo D200 Camper Special and "Nessie" 1970 Dodge Polara Convertible
- DocsTruck
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
My '68 has the stainless trim around the drip rail/gutter. It also has that chrome looking strip in the middle of the rubber gaskets around the windshield and back glass.
Marty
Keeper Of Old Blue
1968 D100 Custom
Keeper Of Old Blue
1968 D100 Custom
- oklamopar
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Found mine at salvage yard long time ago. You don't have to remove windshield to install it
Re: Stainless Drip Rail
I was referring to installing it on a truck that never had it. Mine is factory installed. I was able to remove it with the windshield in place but re-installed it with the windshield out. I probably could have re-installed it with the windshield in because the holes were already there, but due to the angle and location of the screws across the top front, there isn't any way that I could have drilled the holes or used self-drilling screws with the windshield in place. The general consensus on this before has been that the windshield must be removed but if you were able to do it without removing it that's good.cbody70 wrote:Russ wrote: I doubt that the drip rail trim could be, or would be since you have to remove the windshield to install it.
Russ: Not sure what you mean since I installed mine with the windshield in place?
1969 Adventurer W100
- oklamopar
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
I don't remember how i drilled the screw holes. i must have been high or something. LOLRuss wrote:
I was referring to installing it on a truck that never had it. The general consensus on this before has been that the windshield must be removed but if you were able to do it without removing it that's good.
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Ive neever seena truck with the ss moldings - but I own set.
Any pics on the net that can be looked at?
Any pics on the net that can be looked at?
1970 war wagon on 38's
1968 dodge D300
1987 w150- slant 6 - soon super 6
14 other dodges?
17 tractors - maybe more I have to go recount.....
'55 coe Ih
1980 M35A2
4 coots
Rokon Trailbreaker
1968 dodge D300
1987 w150- slant 6 - soon super 6
14 other dodges?
17 tractors - maybe more I have to go recount.....
'55 coe Ih
1980 M35A2
4 coots
Rokon Trailbreaker
- cbody70
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Used a cable chuck for my drill so it was easy to stay away from the glass. Suppose you could also use longer than standard drill bits with a bit of care.oklamopar wrote:I don't remember how i drilled the screw holes. i must have been high or something. LOLRuss wrote:
I was referring to installing it on a truck that never had it. The general consensus on this before has been that the windshield must be removed but if you were able to do it without removing it that's good.
Fred - "Oscar" 1969 Fargo D200 Camper Special and "Nessie" 1970 Dodge Polara Convertible
- bigk
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
anyone ever seen the stainlees drip rail on a crew cab?
- ArtfulDodger
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Hi;
Thanks to all who offered info. I figured it hadn't been removed as there were no screw holes.
Russ, your comment about the short piece welded on above the vent sounds right . I wondered how that thin stainless would be fitted past that.
C Body, I think I saw your truck on the front page of "Old Autos". Very nice!
I went to a glass shop and asked about the "Chrome" lockstrip for the weatherstrip.
The fella offered to do the re and re for me, but as there wasn't much call for it I had to order a roll of 50'. He would use what he needed and I could have the rest. I think he quoted about $60 bucks for the roll and $ 100 to re and re both front and back w/s.
No guarantee they would not break during the work.
As they are original, unmarked, and tinted, I wasn't willing to take a chance on breakage.
ArtfulDodger
Thanks to all who offered info. I figured it hadn't been removed as there were no screw holes.
Russ, your comment about the short piece welded on above the vent sounds right . I wondered how that thin stainless would be fitted past that.
C Body, I think I saw your truck on the front page of "Old Autos". Very nice!
I went to a glass shop and asked about the "Chrome" lockstrip for the weatherstrip.
The fella offered to do the re and re for me, but as there wasn't much call for it I had to order a roll of 50'. He would use what he needed and I could have the rest. I think he quoted about $60 bucks for the roll and $ 100 to re and re both front and back w/s.
No guarantee they would not break during the work.
As they are original, unmarked, and tinted, I wasn't willing to take a chance on breakage.
ArtfulDodger
- demulsion
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
I always figured it came with the "custom" cab option, but I have no data to back that up.ArtfulDodger wrote:Does somebody out there know what was required to have a Stainless drip rail on a D100?
'69 D200 383/727 -and- '68 D200 318/833od 4x4 conversion project

- Hemikuda71
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Here are some pics of the parts that make up the drip stainless. I took these off of a truck in a salvage with the windshield still in it. Used one of those little screw drivers thats shaped like an s. The one with the straight tip on one end and the cross tip on the other. Very easy to do, just takes longer.
Here are the fronts

The sides

and the covers. You'll notice that the one that goes in the middle is differant than the side ones.


Hope these help.
Here are the fronts

The sides

and the covers. You'll notice that the one that goes in the middle is differant than the side ones.


Hope these help.
R/T
'61 D-100 Utiline
'62 D-100 SWB
'64 D-200 LWB CSS 1 of 2 known 3/4 ton CSS's
'68 A-100 Pick Up (stolen)
'72 Challenger
'78 "Lil Red Express"
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- powerwagoncrazy
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
I just layed my drill on the windshield after I put the trim on- the trim holes held the bit until it got started, but you gotta use a sharp bit!! Plus drilling slightly angle holes really sucks the trim down tight over the drip rail. And no, I've never seen a CC with that trim on it- and I have thousands of pictures of crew cab that I've downloaded over the years, and I've seen some of the most deluxe offered... I could be wrong though.
'66 Cummins W250 5 spd crew cab long bed
'67 W200 Cummins, never-ending project
'74 Ramcharger Cummins 5 speed
'02 24v quad cab 6 speed dually 4x4
'67 W200 Cummins, never-ending project
'74 Ramcharger Cummins 5 speed
'02 24v quad cab 6 speed dually 4x4
Re: Crew Cab Stainless Drip Rail
Gentlemen,
I am new to the forum (in the sense that I haven't posted here b4, but with my project starting soon I hope to tell you and ask for your thoughts), anyway. I have a 1964 D200 crew cab which I have 2 door SS drip rail moldings for but I need a straight piece to fill the gap between the windshield and the rear door SS trim.
Ideas or thoughts on where I might find a piece to "fill" this gap? Or just don't use it. I do have the hood with the SS trim that goes down the front door (I picked up from a '61 D500 I got for parts) thought it would be nice to have some trim on the rig.
I am new to the forum (in the sense that I haven't posted here b4, but with my project starting soon I hope to tell you and ask for your thoughts), anyway. I have a 1964 D200 crew cab which I have 2 door SS drip rail moldings for but I need a straight piece to fill the gap between the windshield and the rear door SS trim.
Ideas or thoughts on where I might find a piece to "fill" this gap? Or just don't use it. I do have the hood with the SS trim that goes down the front door (I picked up from a '61 D500 I got for parts) thought it would be nice to have some trim on the rig.
-
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
Bring the 11 yr old thread back to life!!!
There is no such piece available. Take what u have and your wallet to a sheetmetal shop and have them fab up a piece to fit between. You'll also need additional little cover pieces for the joint. When they quote the price, you'll be able to determine how bad u want it.
There is no such piece available. Take what u have and your wallet to a sheetmetal shop and have them fab up a piece to fit between. You'll also need additional little cover pieces for the joint. When they quote the price, you'll be able to determine how bad u want it.
- Wildergarten
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Re: Stainless Drip Rail
VERY useful post, thank you.
Thought as much. I have one on a parts truck I was cotemplating using and was looking at that. Thanks for the confirmation. I'm assuming I can use an angled screwdriver to remove it without taking out the glass?
Was wondering about that. What about bedding the trim, sealing the top edge with caulk where it clips over the gutter rail? Methinks I'll weld up the gap in the rail before paint.

Thought as much. I have one on a parts truck I was cotemplating using and was looking at that. Thanks for the confirmation. I'm assuming I can use an angled screwdriver to remove it without taking out the glass?
Was wondering about that. What about bedding the trim, sealing the top edge with caulk where it clips over the gutter rail? Methinks I'll weld up the gap in the rail before paint.

In other words, if one is planning to use the trim on a truck that never had it, remove the clip and butt weld in a tiny scarf to fill the gap in the rail... hopefully before painting! Really appreciate this kind of detail.

'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org