Trailer Suggestions

[danrabe]

I am getting ready to move from WA to AK and making the drive up the ALCAN. I have to tow my 69 D200 (converted to 4wd) and am looking at buying a flatbed trailer to tow it up there on. I have searched over 100 pages of results in the search function on various topics, but cannot find any information.

What is the weight of a D200 with a 383?
If anyone has ever trailered them long distances, what is the best method for securing them to the trailer?
Should I be looking at a 7k or 10k trailer?
Any other general information I should consider?

My tow vehicle is an 02 Ram 3500 dually with bags, manual trans. Weight behind it is not an issue.

Thanks for all the help in advance.

Dan

[allsupj]

my w200 weighs in at 5000 pounds. Chains and chain binders work well. One in front and one in back. Just check every now and then from tightness.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Be sure to wire around chain binder handles to assure they don't pop open. Tire rating must exceed the weight of truck AND trailer. There are plenty of public scales where u can weigh the truck for a few $.

[dodgeboykim]

When driving through British Columbia on way to Dawson Creek the start of Alaska Highway make sure you have your vehicle tied down to 4 points , Vehicle to trailer. Minimum requirement in this province. And CVSE does have stings periodically . Pickups with trailers are not immune to inspection by those boys. I have been stopped a couple of times by them and the RCMP too .

[danrabe]

Thanks for the 4pt info. I had planned on strapping it down with 4 points anyways. I wish I could take it to a scale, however, it is not running, and the brake system is torn out of it, so a scale isnt an option. I think I will probably just go with a 10k trailer then, 18-20ft.

When attaching the chains, do I attach them straight to the frame or axles? All I have ever loaded on trailers and rail cars is tractors and tracked military vehicles.

Thanks,
Dan

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Axles is better than frame.

[danrabe]

How well do the tire straps work? Or should I just stick with chains?

[66patrick]

I sold trailers for several years, and have about 125K miles of hauling cars and trucks through 34 states. I'll tell you what I have and how I use it:

Trailer: 19' long (16' deck with 3' dovetail) with two #3,500 axles. Frame is 5" C-channel with a wrap tongue, which is a tongue that wraps under the frame and continues back to the front of the front spring mounts. Crossmembers are 3" x 4" angle iron, spaced 20" apart. Wheels are 15"x5" steel modular trailer wheels with 700-15 eight-ply bias trailer tires, with #1,875 capacity each. I have brakes on the rear axle only, but many states and provinces require brakes on both (which I recommend). The lighting is standard DOT trailer marker lights with LED taillights, and DOT reflective tape. Ramps stow in the rear (recommended) with lockable stowage doors. The deck is wood, and the dove is 3/16" diamond-tread steel. I have a Braden #5500 electric winch, which had pulled up on the trailer any vehicle I have hauled, with ease. Tie-down points are four D-rings (one on each corner), and the front cross-bars can be used, as well. My trailer weighs #1,850 tare (empty), and is #7K GVW. Coupler is a 2", #10K Bulldog unit. Trailer jack is a #10K Redneck brand adjustable unit.

When I tow, I use the winch cable on the front axle or crossmember, and ratchet straps with axle straps around the lower control arms or through the wheel slots, depending on what is being hauled. NEVER TIE DOWN using the vehicle frame as a tiedown point!!! The towed vehicle WILL bounce, no matter how tight you think you have it down, and you'll regret using the frame as a tiedown point. I use two ratchet straps with two axle straps on the rear axle, as well as a logging chain around the rear differential, all anchored on the rear D-rings. Wheel straps can be used if you have a proper point along the siderails of your trailer. You see cars attached to tow dollies all the time, that is what you want yours to resemble, if using wheel straps.

[danrabe]

Thanks Patrick,

That's a lot of good information. I was looking at 7k trailers just because of cost. I know that the trailer value, even with being driven between WA and AK increases significantly, so I wouldn't have trouble getting rid of it if I didn't like it. I am just afraid that pushing the GVWR on the trailer and traveling that far on roads that are not in the greatest shape could be disastrous. I would really like to be towing a gooseneck, but cost is going to prohibit that. Thank you for the tie down information as well. I am definitely doing to buy a winch for the trailer because the truck isn't running, and for once I get to AK, to be able to drag logs onto the deck to save a little labor.

Question about the doevtails: is that 3' dovetail useable space even though it slants down? I was looking at flatbeds with no dovetails so I could buy a slightly shorter trailer and have all of it as useable deck space.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

My trailer weighs #1,850 tare (empty), and is #7K GVW.

At 1850# tare and 5000# W200 net, you're really pushing the 7000# GVW, especially when the tendency is to throw a bunch of cargo into the truck cab/bed, or onto the deck, which is all "usable space". Does the 1850# tare include the weight of a bunch of chains?

[66patrick]

That includes the spare tire/wheel, chains, straps, ramps, battery for the winch and the brakeaway kit battery. I've hauled a #6,100 '53 Dodge H-H-A flatbed truck on it without issues. THAT was pushing the design limits for the various components, but it did everything it was supposed to do superbly.

As far as with or without a dovetail, that is pretty much a personal preference, along with what you plan on using the trailer for in the future. I've hauled 95% cars/trucks on mine, but have hauled tractors, sod, flagstone, and lumber with it. The dovetail really wasn't a hindrance in any of that. If you plan to haul cars on a regular basis, you'd be better off with the dovetail, as this keeps your vehicle that you're loading from bottoming out on the back edge of the trailer while you are loading it. If you plan on primarily hauling stuff (logs, lumber, snowmachines, sleds, etc), you would benefit from a straight-deck trailer.