Minimum lift required for 38" superswampers on W200

[spesce]

I am currently having my 1968 W200 Crewcab restored and once bodywork is done I will need to install a lift to run either 38" Super Swampers or 37" goodyear Humvee tires. I have both sets mounted and ready to install.

What is the proper way to find out minimum lift to run these tires? Is anyone running this size on your W200 and if so, what is your lift, 4" or 6"? or can I get by with less?

Thanks!

[Hobcobble]

Welcome to the site!
The '68 and earlier W Series trucks sit pretty tall in
stock configuration. You also need to look at the possibility
of a non stock wider tire rubbing on the drag link.
I'm sure others can chime in on this one for you.

Oh.... make sure to post up some pics of your W200 too!
John

[dodgeboykim]

Having had larger tires on my 66 way back in the day , I can not wrap my head around tires that large without power steering.
Unless you have biceps about 3 feet in diameter.

[Hobcobble]

Good point Kim.
It might add additional stress/wear to the steering
box, drag link and tie rod ends too.
John

[soopernaut]

I think CudaJimmy's old truck had 38s or something close. Maybe something is specified in one of his old posts.

[kurt]

Brakes will need to be upgraded too. I had a friend with these size tires on an I think late 60s ford and it broke the spindles just street driving.

[gyman98]

I think you'll need 6" of lift and negative offset wheels. I've got -12 wheels with 4" of lift and 35's, they clear but I wouldn't clear 38's

[Hobcobble]

Also, I think others have put this size [or larger] tires on their Ws and
wound up "trimming" some off the front fenders....
John

[spesce]

Sorry for the delay in responding....I have been on vacation.

Thank you all for the warnings and suggestions. As I am first getting the frame and body completed, then lift next and will look into brake and power steering upgrades. The 4.89 gears will drive that size tire easily. The drum brakes will be tough, but at max speed about 60, I am not all that concerned, yet! I already had the front fenders trimmed and rolled at the top of the bumper so this should not be a problem.....

I was looking at more info on how you would go about finding the right lift. I was thinking that I would jack one side of the body up and measure the center of axle to wheel well. I would most likely do this at all four corners to make sure the springs would deflect symmetrically. I do not want to order new 6" lift then find that a 4" would have worked and the same is true if I ordered a 4" and it would be enough....

Any more insight on how to better guesstimate prior to ordering and trial and error would be awesome.

[DavidWymore]

Is this going to be more of a street cruiser, mostly flat ground mud bogger, or is it going to tend towards a rough terrain flexy suspension crawler?

[spesce]

Mainly street, forest service road and snow. Not going to rip it up in the back country.....

[DavidWymore]

I'm gonna bet 6" but I think you have the right idea, jack the whole thing up by the frame and measure to the corners of the fender openings...clearing the footwell or rear of the front fender might be the hardest.

http://www.fortrucksonly.com/truckforum ... ptline-guy

[DavidWymore]

That old closed knuckle front axle probably won't hold up too well to those tires, probably break axle shafts/joints. I'd want a modern Dana 60.

[powerwagoncrazy]

The other consideration with pre- '69 trucks is finding lift springs. The only springs regularly offered by aftermarket companies are the '72-'93 Dodge springs, which are a direct bolt-in for Sweptlines. From what I've found, stock pre-'69 Power Wagon springs are roughly equivalent to a 5" lift spring for a '72-'93. For your consideration:

My '67 W200 single cab with '72-'93 Skyjacker 8" lift springs. Tires are 36x12.50x16.5 Humvee tires. In this pic the truck has a 383 and a PTO winch (i.e., lots of weight), but a 38" tall tire is all it would clear. I tried some 39.5 TSL's I had years ago and they wouldn't clear- for what it's worth the fenders were un-cut. The truck now has a cummins in it, and I plan to run 38" TSL's.

Also, my old '68 W200:

Stock springs, with uncut fenders and bald-ish 38" boggers. This truck had a 318 and the sheetmetal chevy bumper.

Not sure what you plan to run for an engine/ front bumper, but with not much weight I'd think a guy could run 38's with the stock springs. If not, the '72-'93 Skyjacker springs would be my next choice.

Keep in mind, there is no bolt-on aftermarket offering for Sweptline steering parts. A D200 pitman arm offers additional drop from your steering box. but there is no raised steering arm for a closed knuckle 44 front. Doug (aka digdoug) hypothesized that a passenger side steering arm from a jeep M715 truck could be used to construct crossover steering with either the dana 70 or big knuckle 44 (factory for your Crew) front, but at this point I'm not aware of anyone having done so. I purchased an M715 arm off ebay to attempt this, but that's all the further my plan has gotten LOL.

After going to the Skyjacker springs on my '67, I had my original drag link cut and welded/modified into a "Z" configuration by an iffy RV repair shop (that closed shortly thereafter) to remedy my poor steering angles after the lift. While it held together for the short time it was on the road after that, it was stupid. Lift blocks and welded cast steering parts are 2 things that have absolutely no business in the front of ANY pickup that drives on the road.

[soopernaut]

The only springs regularly offered by aftermarket companies are the '72-'93 Dodge springs, which are a direct bolt-in for Sweptlines. Keep in mind, there is no bolt-on aftermarket offering for Sweptline steering parts.

What about the centering pin in the rear springs being in a different spot? Did using the 72-93 springs change your wheelbase? When I was doing research for my frame swap, I found that 72-93 springs would not work in place of Sweptline springs and vice versa due to the pin position.

[OregonDodgeboy]

The other consideration with pre- '69 trucks is finding lift springs. The only springs regularly offered by aftermarket companies are the '72-'93 Dodge springs, which are a direct bolt-in for Sweptlines. From what I've found, stock pre-'69 Power Wagon springs are roughly equivalent to a 5" lift spring for a '72-'93. For your consideration:

PICT0084.JPG

My '67 W200 single cab with '72-'93 Skyjacker 8" lift springs. Tires are 36x12.50x16.5 Humvee tires. In this pic the truck has a 383 and a PTO winch (i.e., lots of weight), but a 38" tall tire is all it would clear. I tried some 39.5 TSL's I had years ago and they wouldn't clear- for what it's worth the fenders were un-cut. The truck now has a cummins in it, and I plan to run 38" TSL's.

Also, my old '68 W200:

burly1.jpg

Stock springs, with uncut fenders and bald-ish 38" boggers. This truck had a 318 and the sheetmetal chevy bumper.

Not sure what you plan to run for an engine/ front bumper, but with not much weight I'd think a guy could run 38's with the stock springs. If not, the '72-'93 Skyjacker springs would be my next choice.

So help us out with perspective. How about a measurement of these two trucks? Im thinking to the bottom of the rocker panel, or something like that. And some closer views of how the tires fill the wheel openings maybe? Thanks! Also, how about going with a shackle reversal up front at the same time? How does that factor in?

It's ironic that this thread came up because I'm contemplating what to do with my 67 PW. I've got two dependable drivers now, so I think it's time to tear into it and get her back up and running. I personally don't want much lift because I will still be using it for hauling things like campers and such. But I want her to sit up and get noticed, and do well if I need to take it into someplace ugly. Though that will be the extreme exception and not the rule.

[powerwagoncrazy]

Sorry guys- somehow missed the alert email that this thread had been responded to-

What about the centering pin in the rear springs being in a different spot? Did using the 72-93 springs change your wheelbase? When I was doing research for my frame swap, I found that 72-93 springs would not work in place of Sweptline springs and vice versa due to the pin position.

You're completely right. I neglected to mention that there are no bolt-in aftermarket offerings for rear sweptline springs (at least, that I'm aware of). The front springs are the only ones that will interchange with those from a Lifestyle truck. I'm sure Alcan spring or the like could custom build rear lift springs for the sweptline (read: $$$$!!). My turquoise truck currently has a shackle flip in the rear with the factory 3" block to compensate for the front lift springs.

So help us out with perspective. How about a measurement of these two trucks? Im thinking to the bottom of the rocker panel, or something like that. And some closer views of how the tires fill the wheel openings maybe? Thanks! Also, how about going with a shackle reversal up front at the same time? How does that factor in?

It's ironic that this thread came up because I'm contemplating what to do with my 67 PW. I've got two dependable drivers now, so I think it's time to tear into it and get her back up and running. I personally don't want much lift because I will still be using it for hauling things like campers and such. But I want her to sit up and get noticed, and do well if I need to take it into someplace ugly. Though that will be the extreme exception and not the rule.

Hey Jeff! Glad to hear your '67 is still around as well! Did you ever get the motorhome motor sorted out with it? As far as measurements, the blue '68 left my stable 2 years ago . As I recall it was very much similar in height to my turquoise truck- maybe an inch or two shorter. I might be able to get pics of the tire/wheel well clearance on my '67 at some point, but currently it's packed in the back of the shed with several other trucks in front of it.

I've thought about the shackle reversal up front as well, but have concerns regarding shackle location vs. the steering setup. It seems that on Dodges the shackles are always located on the opposite end of the leaf springs in relation to the steering box, such that if you hit a bump the axle travels away from the box. I'm not certain as to what effect the reversal would have on steering reaction. At this point I have a dana 60/70 combo stashed in the barn for my turquoise truck, and plan to run crossover steering with a Lifestyle series box outside the frame rail (also, leaving the shackles in the factory location). I hope to keep it at it's current height with 38" TSL swampers for a taller (but still "useable") stance.

[crusty]

The reason the box is always on the same end of the leaves as the fixed end is bump steer. From what I have seen, a shackle reversal makes for a smoother ride, but you are right, you can't leave the box in the same location without some negative consequences.

[CupcakeMike]

I put 33" swampers on my stock w200...I think 35" would fit but that would be the tops, at least on my truck

No problem turning the 33s cruising down the hiway @ 80 mph with my stockish 360

[spesce]

I put the 37" Goodyears on. The 38" superswampers would be similar.

Patented Dodge Front Tire Carrier
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37" rear tire on Stock W200
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37" front tire on stock W200
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Front view 37" on stock W200
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Another view of 37" on stock W200
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Interior Dome light
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