Went out to start the Sweptline today and it wouldn't start It cranks just fine and is receiving fuel. It’s equipped (has been for awhile) with electronic ignition. So far I've bypassed the ballast resistor, tried a new module and coil to no avail. What’s strange is that once I’ve tried to start it and return the ignition switch back to the off position the engine rotates (bumps) backwards for a split second. Haven’t had the chance to test for spark at the plugs yet (need a second person). Ran great before I parked it last month.
Well like you said spark number one. Sounds like you don't have spark though. You can check it by yourself if you strike across the selenoid with a screwdriver (key on of course). But if you've got fuel and spark, next woud be timing and compression. You also may want to check the distributor. It could have worn gears. Good luck.
Okay, I’ve checked everything that I know of and it still wont start. Removed the coil wire and grounded it to the manifold, no spark while cranking but once I quit cranking (back to the on position) spark appears. What’s up with that? I already replaced the ignition switch and regulator. I upgraded the ignition to the MOPAR pointless years ago. It appears that it died in its sleep! I’m I missing something?
i had that problem. iirc it was the ignition switch or the ballast resistor. you should have 12v at the coil while cranking and something like 5v at the coil while its running.
sweatybetty wrote:i had that problem. iirc it was the ignition switch or the ballast resistor. you should have 12v at the coil while cranking and something like 5v at the coil while its running.
X2, My guess would also be ignition switch or ballast resistor. The ballast is cheaper and easier to change, I know you said that you bypassed it, but I'd change it anyway. Heck, it's a Mopar, every one should have a spare ballast resistor in the glove box anyway! If that doesn't work than most likely the switch.
I too thought it may be the ignition switch so I tried a new switch that I had, no difference. I also tried another used ballast resistor and bypassing the resistor altogether, no difference. It's got to be something simple, figuring it out is maddening. I have spark when the ignition switch returns to the run position but not while it’s cranking. My next idea is to wiggle all the wiring around for a possible bad connection. This happened once before and somehow corrected itself.
I stopped looking at the coil once I grounded the coil wire and found that there was no spark in the start position, only showed spark once the key was returned to the run position.
If you bypassed the ballast resistor then you may have smoked the coil. Mopar ignition coil "requires" the ballst because it reduces the voltage from 12 to 8. Your coil won't handle 12v. Maybe even the box. That's why I give up and switched to the hei conversion.
Did a more thorough investigation today and through the process of elimination I found a grounding issue at/with the Electronic Control Box. Apparently the metal to metal contact that served me well for years wasn’t enough anymore. Installed a ground wire from the box where it mounts to the firewall to the body ground. “Walla” it fired right up. Thanks for all your help guys.
It cranks just fine and is receiving fuel. It’s equipped (has been for awhile) with electronic ignition. So far I've bypassed the ballast resistor, tried a new module and coil to no avail. What’s strange is that once I’ve tried to start it and return the ignition switch back to the off position the engine rotates (bumps) backwards for a split second. Haven’t had the chance to test for spark at the plugs yet (need a second person). Ran great before I parked it last month.
