1967 Dodge Camper Special - gas mileage !

[mattoxgolf]

Hello Everyone !

I am new to the forum !

I have a 1967 Dodge Camper Special sitting in the barn for the past ten years and I would like to get it running again, but only if I can improve its gas mileage, if not, it will have to spend another ten years in the barn until I can afford a second car !!!

I will need to drive it about 90 miles a day roundtrip... It currently has a 318 with a double barrel carburator, an Automatic 3 speed 727 transmission and a 4.10 rear end. If it works out, I have a project to drive to Oregon next summer from Indiana, so it will need to cross the Rockies, etc...

Is it possible to put in an overdrive tranmission with a much higher rear axle gear ratio ??? Just how high of a rear axel ratio can I go ? Can anyone make an estimation of the best gas mileage I can hope to achieve ?

Thanks for any help !

[Rodger]

Matt

The Dodge Truck was designed by a "Shoe Box Maker" that knew nuthin
about Air-O- Dymamic's or Air Drag. The more you keep the speed at
65 - 6o MPH, the better off you are.

As you approarch any hill think of never "lugging" the Engine's RPM's. The
A-727 Load-Flite that you have will take care of this for you.

If your Tire Pattern is the Mud and Snow ( M & S ) or worse, do not
expect " I get good MPG Data" to be any part of your conversation.

Re-place all of the Fuild in your Torque Convertor and Transmission
before you venture even to Sonic.

The cost of changing to the A-518 is not worth the $$$ expience vs the
MPG Re-Ward. If you have an empty hole, then this is worth it.



Rodger & Gabby
FltSgt@msn.com
COS

[OregonDodgeboy]

If it's been sitting that long, odds are it will need more TLC than you expect. I'd not go down the driveway without all new brakes. Master cylinder, wheel cylinders and pads. Belts and hoses are iffy, so be prepared to replace them. Radiator and heater core could have developed a leak and may cost you. And don't take a risk with bad tires! Because in the end, it's won't be a great commuter car. Dad's truck (with identical drivetrain) averaged 12-14 on the road. But there's alot to getting good milage. Figure 10-12 and be happy if it gets more.

Not to discourage you from driving your truck, but for the money, I'd look at an economy car that gets 25+. If you look around and are ready to buy, good deals can be found. Craigslist is your friend for this. Then wIth the money you would save on gas, I'd get the truck going. It's always nice to have a dependable back-up vehicle.

[mattoxgolf]

Thank you for the replies !

I am sure that I need to make a lot of little investments before I can get the truck up and running and dependable, I would sure like to drive it everyday and was sort of hoping with new rear axle gears and perhaps a transmission with an overdrive ( fourth gear ), I could get at least 18 miles a gallon ! I was considering putting in a diesel, but will not have the financial means immediately and it seems that it will not dramatically improve my mileage...

Still open to any ideas !

Clint

[Hobcobble]

The 3.54 DANA 60 would help you out
but trying to pull down 18mpg will be a
challenge. As mentioned above, you're
going to have to spend some $$ just to
get this truck safe and roadworthy.
John

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The bigger the tires u install, the higher the overdrive u get.

[soopernaut]

The bigger the tires u install, the higher the overdrive u get.

True, but if you go too far and the engine doesn't stay in the power band then your mileage will suffer just the same. Also keep in mind your speedometer will not be accurate.

[mattoxgolf]

Thanks again for all of the replies !

This site is fantastic for me, I will definitely be keeping an eye out for great ideas...

I am beginning to think that my best chance of really improving mileage is to install a different center pumpkin in my rear end, I have been proposed a 3.23:1 and in addition, I could change over to an A 518 transmission. I read that this transmission could improve up to 30% of gas mileage compared to the A 727. I know that this is going to cost me, but gasoline could be over 4 dollars soon and If I drive over 400 miles a week, it will quickly pay for itself.

I will do a little research on the best tires ( size and tread ) for gas mileage and will just change over to something more meaty in the winter...

Also, if I am going to have to change my entire brake system after so many years, is it possible / worthwhile to try and go for disk brakes, at least in the front ?

Thank you all again !
Clint

[PwrWgnDrvr]

There is no "pumpkin" on a dana 60 axle. U would have to change the ring and pinion, which is rather complex and requires some special tools. Easier to swap the whole axle!
U will also have to change the speedometer gear in the trans, no matter whether u change tire size, or axle ratio.

[Hobcobble]

Thanks again for all of the replies !

This site is fantastic for me, I will definitely be keeping an eye out for great ideas...

I am beginning to think that my best chance of really improving mileage is to install a different center pumpkin in my rear end, I have been proposed a 3.23:1 and in addition, I could change over to an A 518 transmission. I read that this transmission could improve up to 30% of gas mileage compared to the A 727. I know that this is going to cost me, but gasoline could be over 4 dollars soon and If I drive over 400 miles a week, it will quickly pay for itself.

I will do a little research on the best tires ( size and tread ) for gas mileage and will just change over to something more meaty in the winter...

Also, if I am going to have to change my entire brake system after so many years, is it possible / worthwhile to try and go for disk brakes, at least in the front ?

Thank you all again !
Clint

If you're saying you own a D100 then that certainly opens up
the possibilities. I put a 2.94:1 chunk in my '65 D100. The 3.23:1
is a good all around gear as well.
John

[PwrWgnDrvr]

If you're saying you own a D100 then that certainly opens up
the possibilities. I put a 2.94:1 chunk in my '65 D100. The 3.23:1
is a good all around gear as well.
John

John, Camper Specials are 200's only.

[digdoug]

If you're saying you own a D100 then that certainly opens up
the possibilities. I put a 2.94:1 chunk in my '65 D100. The 3.23:1
is a good all around gear as well.
John

John, Camper Specials are 200's only.

[digdoug]

though being 4.10 gears it is likely a 200.

[mattoxgolf]

It is definitely a D200 Camper Special... WIth my original rear end equiped with a 4.10:1 rear axle , is it possible to swap out the "chunk" or "pumpkin" without having to swap out the entire axle ? Or did my Camper Special come originally with a dana 60 rear end as mentioned in a previous post ??? I was hoping to just change the gears ! Of course, when I do go forward with this, I will have to look into the speedometer issue...

[OregonDodgeboy]

One option would be to leave your rear end alone and instead use an overdrive automatic transmission with a locking torque converter. Then you could get the RPMs down to better levels for long range driving. But for the best fuel efficiency in a gas engine, you need to cruise at the RPM where the torque and horsepower curves cross. Because just dropping RPMs isn't the big secret to fuel efficiency. There's more to it than that.

The next step is to go EFI. Now I know I've been blasted a few times in the past for suggesting this, but I'm going to go with a GM TBI system, adapted to my Dodge. It's really easy and very affordable if you're willing to put the effort into it. I'll be doing this to the 318 I'm installing in my Scout 2, and use the experience to do it to the 360 in the Swept at a later date. A good ballpark figure for parts is around $500 total, and that includes some new sensors, the programming adapter to go to your computer, and everything. This comes from several people I've known that put the same system on the IH motors in their Scouts. When a 4wd Scout 2 can get an average of 18 city/highway with minimal tuning, it's got to be worth considering.

Check it out here: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... hp?t=47254 or here for a detailed system walkthrough: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... hp?t=48769

[PwrWgnDrvr]

D100 maximum load (camper body, driver, passengers and gear) 1200#
Most dudes and their old lady will use up at least 350# of that. Dont leave much for the camper and gear.
Did anybody ever actually buy such a girlie truck and be seen with it?
That's a freakin embarassment!

[712edf]

It is definitely a D200 Camper Special... WIth my original rear end equiped with a 4.10:1 rear axle , is it possible to swap out the "chunk" or "pumpkin" without having to swap out the entire axle ? Or did my Camper Special come originally with a dana 60 rear end as mentioned in a previous post ??? I was hoping to just change the gears ! Of course, when I do go forward with this, I will have to look into the speedometer issue...

All 200's, be it 2wd or 4wd, had the Dana 60 rear from late 50's thru 93. Some had HD maybe.

Aftermarket parts are abundant, as the differential was also used in many Mopar muscle cars, even not identical.

Bucky

[soopernaut]

I'll try to clear up a few things.

Yes, there were 1/2 ton camper Specials. I first read this in a book by Don Bunn so I contacted him directly and visited with him. He showed the exact same brochure that was posted here. I saw one of these trucks in Albuquerque,NM.

Since it appears the original poster has a D200 they will have a Dana 60 which does not have a removable center section like a 8.75 Chrysler. There is no 3.23 gear ratio available for this axle. 3.54 is probably the highest you will find. I have no experience with these axles but it sounds like they are more difficult to swap gears than a 8.75 axle and may be better left to someone who has the knowledge and tools to do so.

I don't believe all 200s had Dana 60s. I think there was a 3/4 ton version of the 9.25 axle that might have been used in some trucks. I know vans used this axle. I just comfirmed from a post on Ramchargercentral that this axle was used on D/W200s. All Sweptline Era 200s had the Dana 60.

A well tuned carburetor might get the same fuel mileage as fuel injection. The advantages of FI are easier starts, not as affected by cold or hot temps, can be driven on uneven terrain without as many drawbacks, better fuel/air ratio and they seem to be more reliable.

My daily driver is a 5000lb 4 wheel drive truck and it gets 18 hwy so I don't see why a Sweptline couldn't get that.

[Cageman]

3.55 is the highest ratio possible in a dnan 60.
At best you will get 12mpg. anything more is mathematical error.
torque and hp cross at like 5250 rpm, no efficiency there.

[RussRoth]

At best you will get 12mpg. Anything more is mathematical error.

I would take exception to that statement. I am not only pretty good at math, I have also been able to attain better than 12 mpg with my W200 on 2 consecutive tanks. Near 15 on one and over 15 on the other. My rig weighs 5700, has an OD/gear splitter, 4.10 gears, 8R19.5 tires and turns right @ 1800 rpm @ 60 mph. Kept right at 55 to do it. That was a long time ago and have not done it since.

I have done some tuning changes recently and was able to attain about 11 mpg running around town although that particular figure is not as accurate as I would like. Have not done that well in the past so I did manage an improvement. I am pretty sure I could now fairly easily beat 15 mpg on that same previous jaunt. Not too sure about 18 though. I think that will be a stretch but I might give a try one of these days.