pcv valve

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:04 pm

Is it bad that my engine dies if the pcv isn't connected? i was having troubles keeping the engine running the other day and finally noticed that the pcv valve hose was disconnected from my carb...since knowing that before the 383 was built up completely that it COULD run without keeping the pcv system in tact, i didnt think it was the problem, but sure enoegh the engine ran like its old self again...i just didnt think the motor was so dependant on the pcv system to run? or that the carb sucks in too much air when the system is disconnected? whats going on here !?

thanks for the input in advance!

chris

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:58 pm

OBSOLUTLY NORMAL

, your carb is sucking big time air and with all unrestricted air it will run like crap

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:20 pm

alright cool man, i finally got a new car so i can make it to college and back without spending 50 on gas a day

now the 383 is my weekend warrior, this also gives me a chance to do whatever i want with it w/o having to worry about it being drivable, since it was my daily driver. the next thing i want for it is one of those b&m 727 tranny's, you think its nessecary since the use of my truck is racing/showing off

im not sure how much damage my stock 36 yr old tranny can take...dont get me wrong its doing great now but i dont want anything to happen..that could have been prevented.

chris

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 4:49 am

before you make the final decision about buying a tranny check these guys out http://www.phoenixtransmission.com you might be surprised at the prices

Post by **cowboy** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:26 am

chris you can buy the B&M kit & put it in & be just as tough as there own built trans , & do I under stand you right , you built up you 383 & never touch your tran's ?

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:38 pm

haha cowboy i put new fluid and a filter in it!!!!

, that was the point where i ran out of money man...you think i should just put the b&m shift kit in? it runs REALLY strong as it is and shifts real good, although my kickdown doesn't work ( im trying to figure out how to get everything to work with my aftermarket holley carb ) as it was meant for my 2 barrel carter which no longer exists

, would i be able to install this shift kit my self with ZERO transmission knowledge?

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:45 pm

hey mountain! on those tranny's they come with an OVERDRIVE? does this mean that i can criuse highways at 65 !?!? my 3.91's are killin me and limit to the city streets.

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:09 pm

YES THEY HAVE THE OVERDRIVE Read them close and you'll see not only do they have overdrive but built to your horsepower, so actually you could keep your 3:91 for stop light racing, and cruise road speed 75 and keep your rpm's around 2000-2500

duracell · Post by **duracell** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 2:14 am

you going to wilcox this year chris? it'd be great to meet up and put a face to that truck

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 4:08 am

383mrollg
I didn't catch it in reading your post before, but you say you don't have the kickdown hooked up??? Are you shifting manual??? The kickdown is important for the correct shift points, you may be starting off in 3rd gear all the time, not good will eventually burn out the trans, the kick down goes to the same spot as the throttle cable, it is needed to help build up pressure so the trans knows when to shift, thats also how you can get longer rev ranges before the shift.

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 6:30 pm

robin, we tried all weekend to fix the kickdown and failed, it just wont shift down when getting on it, and doesnt shift down when i come to a stop, i know this is a problem and thats why im planning on going with the ph0oenix tranny you showed me. although it doesnt seem bad and the truck drives and shifts ( well when it actually does shift) great do you guys think i should make the trip to wilcox in that condition. it doesnt seem to affect the truck or anything, and ive never had any trouble other than the fact that the kickdown doesnt work.

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 3:35 am

do you have a picture of it connected to the carb??? I had to use a small spring to get more pressure at the carb, if not it stayed in 3rd, but now it shifts fine, even winds out second pretty good

if it shifts to different gears then the drive to Wilcox will be fine

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:29 pm

here ya go..

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:32 pm

here ya go..

mopardwh · Post by **mopardwh** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:20 am

Looks like its hooked up in the pic? Maybe its just not adjusted right. It shifts fine, but doesn't kickdown when you floor it right? Did it work good before the 4bbl? I remember I had a problem with the kickdown on my 383 Roadrunner. the ball end on the carb broke, so I made a whole new rod using an all thread. Allowed me to adjust it perfect, and MAN! Did it ever scratch a good shift!

As far as the shift kit, I wouldn't be worried about doing it yourself, just look into it better, maybe find some diagrams. But if you got the money, I would HIGHLY suggest freshening it up all together or looking into a new one.

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:18 am

OK, I see something, but before I make any suggestions on what to try, tell me about the shift pattern????

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:55 pm

it shifts into 2nd at 10 and 3rd and 15-20 and wont shift down when i come to a stop. also it doesnt shift down when i step on it. the shifts are real weak and smooth hard to tell its shifting. the only time it shifts down is when i shift it down myself or i put it in park and back into drive.

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 6:24 am

OK, I was thinking that was the case, its because there isn't enough pressure on the rod, I noticed in the picture you have a wire that keeps the rod in one place, which allows it to shift, but its premature, which isn't goint to burn up the tranny, just you won't use the horsepower in the engine or give the 727 a chance to multiply torq, what I'm going to suggest you try can be changed back if ya need to, the wire you have is stopping it from building pressure and allowing it to shift premature, just replace the wire with a light tension spring, which will allow some travel of the kickdown rod, it then should start downshifting at the lights and also give ya some wind up on shifting points, get it the same length as the wire just a light tension, which is usually carburator return springs, should cost ya less than $5.00 get a couple with differnt amounts of tension so you can do trail and error

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 1:10 am

I agree with Robin to a degree>
kickdown rod should have it's own spring>> however,
because of the new carb (ect.) the kickdown
arm may be too short so a new spring may not
help.
From the photo- I see that the arm and carb post
is not all the way back in the arm slot (too
the firewall side- carb stud should be to the
fire wall side of the slot with the
open end of the slot to the front of engine)
which is were it should be
to give full throw on the linkage.

If a spring will not bring the arm all the
way foward, then you will have to make the
kickdown arm longer by adding about a inch to the arm.
Since the stock used for the kickdown arms very in
size at the threaded end- a factory extender from
Eldenbrock or Holley may or may not work (should
be able to find ether at a good parts store).
If the threads are larger than the extender avalable
you will have to make one from stock to be found
at the hardware store.

This is a common mod that needs to be made to kickdown
linkage when switching carb/intake types......

For kickdown to work right the arm, held by spring
all the way foward, floating on the carb stud freely
except for the spring holding it,
with the carb stud all the way back to the firewall
side in the slot>>>>>
that should allow the kickdown to work right.
Above with the carb closed>> carb closed with
spring holding kickdown arm foward......

To see if it is getting a full stroke> hold kickdown
arm (free from carb) all the way back (push toward
fire wall) see were the carb stud lines up in the
kickdown slot with carb wide open (should be
the back of the kickdown arm slot> if not adjust
to fit).
If shifts are too hard after this adjustment, make
it shorter
arm one turn of the threaded end. Shifts should
be furm but not bone crushing and wide open down
shifts from 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st should happen
at the right rpm/speed.

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 4:49 am

Thanks Jeff,
My kickdown was hand made and doesn't have the threaded end as 383rollig has, but the spring on mine does really good, it shifts points are close to perfect, but Chris try the adjustments Jeff described and see if ya can get better shifts, by the way I noticed also that your throttle cable holder is the stock short one? they sale the taller one so it will align better.

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