noob trying to learn do thing right there just been so much done to truck trying get it running and every thing working better and braking one thing i don't like on it now
i currently have a dana 44 with closed knuckle.i like to upgrade to all 4 disk i know i need swap front axle what will bolt and still keep locking hub. or would i have to after market to keep locking hubs? i know 80-93 dana 60 bolt any them still have locking hubs? what can i put in rear its a spicier 60?
truck
1970 w100 4x4
axle been change to 3/4 ton
motor 472 tranny th400 to dodge np205
axle upgrade help
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divinedragon13
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- State: ID
Re: axle upgrade help
How do you plan on using the truck? It sounds like you've got an early D44 in your truck.
I would do one of a few things regarding axles and disc brakes.
For the front axle, swap out the D44 for sure for either a later D44 or D60 out of a Dodge truck.
Either the later 44 or the 60 will have the diff on the correct side, have disc brakes and locking hubs. I'm honestly not 100% on the year range on the D44 but think late 70s to early 80s will put you in the right ball park.
I know a heck of alot more about 60s than 44s but that doesn't mean you need a 60..44s are just fine if you're not wheeling the hell out of the truck or constantly hauling above something like 10K lbs.
Dana produced the 60 for Dodge from '75 -'93 with the only difference being in the styles of the wheel hubs and 4WD lock outs. '75-'78 ran full time flanges so you may want to avoid an axle of that vintage. '79-'89 ran exterior style wheel hubs and lock outs. I'm running these hubs and lock outs on my 60. I believe the majority of these axles were geared @ 4.10 since the 250 and 350 trucks ran gas motors. '90 - '93 ran wheel hubs with internal lock outs. 60s out of Cummins powered 250s and 350s are geared @ 3.55. For what it's worth, all the wheel hubs interchange from year to year so you could put later hubs on an earlier axle.
Other things to consider for an axle swap are u bolts, spring plates, steering, shock mounts, matching your drive shaft to the pinion yoke, and brake lines.
Get new u bolts for sure. D60s run two studs and one u bolt on the passenger side. 44s run 4 u bolts. Re- using the factory spring plates is fine if you can find them.
There's a few after market company selling both u bolts and plates for reasonable prices including Ruff Stuff Specialties and Blue Torch Fab Works.
I'm not honestly 100% sure on steering. If going D44, you may be able to re-use driver's side arm off your current D44. If going 60, you will need to address attaching your existing drag link to the factory steer arm.
There's a handful of board members who have done this swap so I would search for those builds.
For you rear axle, I would go with a 60 or 70 for sure. On the other hand, I just bought a complete Sterling 10.25 for $75! It's shame you're not closer, I have two 60's D60 rears I like to get rid of.
If Ruff Stuff doesn't' sell the caliper brackets you need, call the shop, and Dan, the owner, will be able to point you in the right direction.
They may have to be welded to the housing so be prepared for that.
Re building these axles is an investment with itself. For instance, for a D60, you're looking at roughly $300 for just new wheel bearings and seals. A king pin rebuild kit for both sides is about $130. You will also want to get a knuckle stud kit for
driver's side. The wheel hub socket to get the hubs off the spindles is about $20. New rotors run about $80/ea but I don't remember caliper prices off the top of my head.
I hope this helps..
I would do one of a few things regarding axles and disc brakes.
For the front axle, swap out the D44 for sure for either a later D44 or D60 out of a Dodge truck.
Either the later 44 or the 60 will have the diff on the correct side, have disc brakes and locking hubs. I'm honestly not 100% on the year range on the D44 but think late 70s to early 80s will put you in the right ball park.
I know a heck of alot more about 60s than 44s but that doesn't mean you need a 60..44s are just fine if you're not wheeling the hell out of the truck or constantly hauling above something like 10K lbs.
Dana produced the 60 for Dodge from '75 -'93 with the only difference being in the styles of the wheel hubs and 4WD lock outs. '75-'78 ran full time flanges so you may want to avoid an axle of that vintage. '79-'89 ran exterior style wheel hubs and lock outs. I'm running these hubs and lock outs on my 60. I believe the majority of these axles were geared @ 4.10 since the 250 and 350 trucks ran gas motors. '90 - '93 ran wheel hubs with internal lock outs. 60s out of Cummins powered 250s and 350s are geared @ 3.55. For what it's worth, all the wheel hubs interchange from year to year so you could put later hubs on an earlier axle.
Other things to consider for an axle swap are u bolts, spring plates, steering, shock mounts, matching your drive shaft to the pinion yoke, and brake lines.
Get new u bolts for sure. D60s run two studs and one u bolt on the passenger side. 44s run 4 u bolts. Re- using the factory spring plates is fine if you can find them.
There's a few after market company selling both u bolts and plates for reasonable prices including Ruff Stuff Specialties and Blue Torch Fab Works.
I'm not honestly 100% sure on steering. If going D44, you may be able to re-use driver's side arm off your current D44. If going 60, you will need to address attaching your existing drag link to the factory steer arm.
There's a handful of board members who have done this swap so I would search for those builds.
For you rear axle, I would go with a 60 or 70 for sure. On the other hand, I just bought a complete Sterling 10.25 for $75! It's shame you're not closer, I have two 60's D60 rears I like to get rid of.
If Ruff Stuff doesn't' sell the caliper brackets you need, call the shop, and Dan, the owner, will be able to point you in the right direction.
They may have to be welded to the housing so be prepared for that.
Re building these axles is an investment with itself. For instance, for a D60, you're looking at roughly $300 for just new wheel bearings and seals. A king pin rebuild kit for both sides is about $130. You will also want to get a knuckle stud kit for
driver's side. The wheel hub socket to get the hubs off the spindles is about $20. New rotors run about $80/ea but I don't remember caliper prices off the top of my head.
I hope this helps..
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surfnuke9
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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Re: axle upgrade help
I got new, loaded calipers for my 93 D60 front from rockauto for $25 each (closeout sale).
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divinedragon13
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- State: ID
Re: axle upgrade help
ya mostly truck used for hauling the last owner change axle in truck front came from like 63 and back from like a 71
so like get axle that make like dana 60s get them set up to disk so easy find parts for and i know for sure what under the truck
and like to be able to get lockers some day
so like get axle that make like dana 60s get them set up to disk so easy find parts for and i know for sure what under the truck
and like to be able to get lockers some day