Floor pan

[hampstead38]

Here's a picture of the new floor pan. I called a local guy to mig weld the pans in. He said I ought to rivet the pan in place so it won't warp when he welds it. Given my Airstream project, I have a ton of rivets. I can't weld for crap nor do I have a buzz box in the shop. So... are the rivets overkill or is it a good idea?

[Jims68]

You could also use sheet metal screws for easy removal. (Or a cleco tool, but screws are just as good) I usually do that when I weld something like that in place. Then, after it is welded in, I remove the screws, and fill the holes with a "TACK" of weld. Simple!

Jim

[Boons]

Riveting will allow moisture to sit in between the floor and the new pan.It ok for a quick fix just to make it drivable but for a permanent solution, No. If done by a good welder that has welded autobody before, there shouldn't be much worry

[Jims68]

I thought Boons meant that the welder wanted the pan riveted just to get it in place, before it was welded. Not to rivet it as a permanent fix...

Jim

[MountainMoparRobin]

I thought Boons meant that the welder wanted the pan riveted just to get it in place, before it was welded. Not to rivet it as a permanent fix...

Jim

I read it the same way, and I think your idea of using the screws is better than the rivets easier to remove than the rivets

[Jims68]

OH.... and I forgot to mention something that is very important. Use a brushable seam sealer on the welds. This will seal the pans. I sealed mine inside and out. My floor pans are home made. The black pan is metal from a roof off a 61 Chrysler that was being junked! Don't worry... it was thoroughly stripped for parts!

I used NORTON Brushable Seam Sealer in a quart can part number 82746 Then, I used a stiff small brush to spread it on.

Jim

[Russ]

The post says the welder wants the pan riveted in "so it won't warp when he welds it". That makes it pretty plain that the rivets are temporary and only there to hold it in position.

Welding it in is the easy part anyway. These replacement pans seldom fit perfectly and getting it fitted in and riveted is going to take more time than the welding. If you don't have a welder but are able to fit the new panel in, rivet it, then get it welded in this is probably the cheapest way to go.

[Boons]

Lol sorry read the post fairly early in the morning (4am still in sleep mode) Yes thats a good idea.

[69W200]

I am planning to replace the floor pans in my 69 w200. From some of the pics, it looks like most have been lap welded into place. I am a self taught welder ( not very good) but have seen floors repaired using a series of small plug welds about an inch apart, an then sealed on both sides. Which is easier? Any difference or thoughts on this? Who has the best patch panels?

[exline]

I do it a little different than this. I know its more work but i always but weld . I dont overlap the metal because it could collect moisture and rust out. I have had to fix cars that had the floor pans overlapped and then rusted. Plus if you take the time to but weld , you can grind.the welds down flat and it will look factory .
Even if you do overlap the metal i would still weld it solid, it will warp some but you can hammer some of it out.
I have a 68 dodge truck that someone patched with sheetmetal and spot welds and its rotted up again now and i need to fix it.
Its just my opinion though and its more work but if its a truck you like and want to keep i think its worth it.

[soopernaut]

Who has the best patch panels?

Exline probably has the best panels. He posted right below you.

[thembsnyder]

I will be going to exline when I get the cash together for my front pans

http://www.exlinecustomauto.com/

[RobertGilliam]

Always butt weld, if you do it right no one will ever know that they have been replaced. PS get them from Kenny if you want quality.

[RobertGilliam]

No one has added anything so here goes. got to my build 1969 from Tennessee to see floor pans done.