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Is the standard semi flat clear coat the correct way to cover lacquer primer ?
Has anyone done this ?

Huh? Do you mean to cover primer with clear? Why? Prime, paint, then clear... Normally, you never clear over primer. Primer is porous and will absorb moisture. Sure... it is OK to let a primed vehicle outside for a little while, but eventually it will rust.

If you are going for that "Primer" look, then use a semi gloss black paint.

Jim

Jim I understand ,prime,paint,clear. I see a few cars that have primer only, just like we did way back ,when there was no such thing as clear coat.
What I see now is some have a slight sheen . I know there is a satin clear, just wanted to find out if it is compatible with a primer.

Go to web site called kirker auto paint...their hot rod black is what you need.

Hewy wrote:Jim I understand ,prime,paint,clear. I see a few cars that have primer only, just like we did way back ,when there was no such thing as clear coat.
What I see now is some have a slight sheen . I know there is a satin clear, just wanted to find out if it is compatible with a primer.

OH... OK, just didn't understand what you were getting at.
Jim

dahooligan wrote:Go to web site called kirker auto paint...their hot rod black is what you need.

Thanks for the tip. I also contacted my paint shop here, and they have all colors in semi flat or flat urethan.
I was hoping some one out there had used it.

This may not be what you are trying to do, but my son and I just did the el cheapo spray can in the driveway paint job on his old Toytoter 4x4. We found that BBQ paint worked out best for us. It covered better and looked better too. We got it at walmart. I THINK it was Krylon.

you definately dont want to clear over primer, it will peel off in short order...you can however clear a black primer sealer, but since it requires you to respray the black first, you might as well do it right.

it really depends on what kind of quality you are going for. You can certainly use a single stage semi-gloss or flat paint, but I would hightly reccomend doing it right. use a base coat clear coat system, just as if you were going to paint it shiny black, the only difference is you use a flat or semi gloss clear...This paint will hold up so much better than anything else. Definately dont use krylon it or barbecue black unless you really dont care what it looks like..youll get very uneven coverage as is inherent with arttle cans and when you see it in direct light all those inconsistencies will become very apparent.

PPG, Dupont, Sherman Williams any name brand will have a flat or semi gloss clear.....Kirker paint is ok, ive had fair results with it. in my experience it ends up bieng very orange peely, its probably my lack of experience in spraying a single stage paint more than it is the paint itself.

you can also try hot rod flatz....

What does PPG stand for, and is there a maker of PPG? I keep getting different results using a locator. Example; Pittsburgh paint, Porter paint are my results. My understanding is that PPG is high end paint, how does this paint compare with House-of-Kolor paint?

Pittsburgh Paint and Glass. From a quick internet search, they appear to be similar price and quality to HOK. However, PPG and DuPont make OEM colors, HOK is custom color only. But I am not a painter, so that's all the info I have.

Jims68 wrote:Huh? Do you mean to cover primer with clear? Why? Prime, paint, then clear... Normally, you never clear over primer. Primer is porous and will absorb moisture. Sure... it is OK to let a primed vehicle outside for a little while, but eventually it will rust.

If you are going for that "Primer" look, then use a semi gloss black paint.

Jim

but what if he is looking to have the color Gray, or even Red? and with clear coat over the primer wouldn't that stop if from absorbing water? Hewy I saw one of the paint supply stores here that had "Hot Rod Black" primer in gallon container, didn't read the particulars.

MountainMoparRobin wrote:

Jims68 wrote:Huh? Do you mean to cover primer with clear? Why? Prime, paint, then clear... Normally, you never clear over primer. Primer is porous and will absorb moisture. Sure... it is OK to let a primed vehicle outside for a little while, but eventually it will rust.

If you are going for that "Primer" look, then use a semi gloss black paint.

Jim

but what if he is looking to have the color Gray, or even Red? and with clear coat over the primer wouldn't that stop if from absorbing water? Hewy I saw one of the paint supply stores here that had "Hot Rod Black" primer in gallon container, didn't read the particulars.

Ya Robin, red is what I was thinking with the semi gloss. Will see what happens
P.S. saw a road sign "Shoulder work ahead " I thought of you.

Hewy wrote:

MountainMoparRobin wrote:

Jims68 wrote:Huh? Do you mean to cover primer with clear? Why? Prime, paint, then clear... Normally, you never clear over primer. Primer is porous and will absorb moisture. Sure... it is OK to let a primed vehicle outside for a little while, but eventually it will rust.

If you are going for that "Primer" look, then use a semi gloss black paint.

Jim

but what if he is looking to have the color Gray, or even Red? and with clear coat over the primer wouldn't that stop if from absorbing water? Hewy I saw one of the paint supply stores here that had "Hot Rod Black" primer in gallon container, didn't read the particulars.

Ya Robin, red is what I was thinking with the semi gloss. Will see what happens
P.S. saw a road sign "Shoulder work ahead " I thought of you.

I'm scared, its the right side and I'm right handed, I'm busting my bunns trying to get everything done before August 6th

I've got some parts bead blasted and ready to prime, but I don't have the time or the skills to do the body work. I need to wrap up my project truck and get it ready to haul by the end of July. I'm going to shoot everything with primer (maybe POR-15) and then hit it with a coat or two of gray tractor/implement paint. My goal is just to seal the primer to avoid rust. When I get moved out west and set up, I'll get the body work done (including replacing some metal), sand everything up and have a real guy shoot something permanent. This will be a working truck, not a trailer queen, so I'm not looking for something with three coats of clear. I just want a clean looking truck that looks pretty stock. I know leaving primer exposed ain't a great idea, but this is the best/cheap plan I could think of.

You might want to save the empty can of primer to remember what brand and material it is. Some types of paint do not like to stick to some types and brands of primer or pick a good quaity primer that you know is compatible with a good quality paint. I would go into a local automotive PPG authorized paint store and get some good advice on what type of primer to use. You might even be able to put a sealer as a top coat. You will need to sand the sealer prior to painting it but that might work. . This will help seal the primer in and will create a more uniform finish once it is painted. The last thing you will need is to have the paint start peeling off in 6 months or so due to an incompatible primer/paint combination You could have a huge mess of trying to remove the new paint and old primer if they are not compatible.


Good Luc,

hampstead38 wrote:I've got some parts bead blasted and ready to prime, but I don't have the time or the skills to do the body work. I need to wrap up my project truck and get it ready to haul by the end of July. I'm going to shoot everything with primer (maybe POR-15) and then hit it with a coat or two of gray tractor/implement paint. My goal is just to seal the primer to avoid rust. When I get moved out west and set up, I'll get the body work done (including replacing some metal), sand everything up and have a real guy shoot something permanent. This will be a working truck, not a trailer queen, so I'm not looking for something with three coats of clear. I just want a clean looking truck that looks pretty stock. I know leaving primer exposed ain't a great idea, but this is the best/cheap plan I could think of.

have you thought about hitting it with a "single stage" coat of paint? single stage has the clear mixed in with the paint, so you save money on the fact their both mixed together, it would help keep away rust more than primer, single stage you don't want to wet sand after its been painted because it would destroy pigment in the paint since the clear coat is very, very thin, this would be just apply it let it dry and drive

MountainMoparRobin wrote:

hampstead38 wrote:I've got some parts bead blasted and ready to prime, but I don't have the time or the skills to do the body work. I need to wrap up my project truck and get it ready to haul by the end of July. I'm going to shoot everything with primer (maybe POR-15) and then hit it with a coat or two of gray tractor/implement paint. My goal is just to seal the primer to avoid rust. When I get moved out west and set up, I'll get the body work done (including replacing some metal), sand everything up and have a real guy shoot something permanent. This will be a working truck, not a trailer queen, so I'm not looking for something with three coats of clear. I just want a clean looking truck that looks pretty stock. I know leaving primer exposed ain't a great idea, but this is the best/cheap plan I could think of.

have you thought about hitting it with a "single stage" coat of paint? single stage has the clear mixed in with the paint, so you save money on the fact their both mixed together, it would help keep away rust more than primer, single stage you don't want to wet sand after its been painted because it would destroy pigment in the paint since the clear coat is very, very thin, this would be just apply it let it dry and drive

hampstead has the same need as I do. He wants to protect the body for a while due to the upcoming move. I want to protect mine for a while and drive it, till I figure out what color to finally paint it.
So how far west are you relocating hampstead ?

I'm from Montana originally. Everyone in my family is still there. While I wouldn't mind retiring there, I have another 20 years to work before I can hang up my spurs. I have property in Montana and have access to shop space to store the D200. We're timing our move for next year--if the '67 Airstream is ready and the house sells. I'll probably take a couple of months to hunt, fish and work on the truck.

Whatever I shoot will be a temporary solution. I'm just looking to stop the rust, stabilize the metal and have the truck not endure any more damage in the event it gets stored outside. Out west, I'll have a better chance of locating decent parts, I suspect. I'd prefer to find one more solid door, rather than deal with what I have. The bed is a bit iffy as well. Well, in any event, I'll have enough of the pieces to make the project a bit easier to tackle. I've already told the wife... we need half as much house and three times as much shop.