It's in and runs, finally!

[2bluesweptlines]

Ok, here's the price breakdown. I'm sure I didn't get all the prices exactly right (I bought osme of these 6 months ago and lost the papers), so I did my best to recall what they were. All this is excluding the original price of the motor.
block machine work: 240
rings: 43
rod bearings: 44
mains: 51
cam bearings: 23
pistons: 106
head machine work: 415
cam: 140
headers: 440
HV oil pump: 80
340 springs: 42
big valves: 72
double roller chain: 73
engine paint: 25
hei module: 20
wires: 65
distributor: 60
coil: 30
dizzy cap: 15
rotor: 7
fuel pump: 30
carb: 75
carb kit: 40
intake: 150
carb spacers: 30
lifters: 30
oil filter: 15
oil: 12
hose and fuel filter: 20

total (plus or minus some) $2390

I've never added it up until this morning ( ) oh well, I think it was dough well spent. It should put out roughly 220-240 hp and somewhere around 360 ftlb. There's a chassis dyno in Longview that only charges $20 per run, so I think I may try it.

[MountainMoparRobin]

what size valves did you go with?
Your right a /6 build may in the future, but it won't be too radical, even possibly make a /6 transplant into the Willys

[2bluesweptlines]

Robin,
I used 1.70" intake, 1.44" exhaust valves. They don't seem all that much bigger that the stock valves, but when you look at the formula for area (3.1415 x radius^2), it makes a difference. Also, they are backcut, which improves flow and already have a 3 angle job done on them. I bought them off of ebay. A guy there has some slant six performance stuff. These are the valves that pretty much all of the guys on the slantsix forum use. They are pretty reasonably priced. Also, the 340 performance springs (dual spring) come up on ebay quite often. They are what should be used when using a big cam for the slant six. If you do a slant six build, be sure and check out the Erson cam group buy on the slantsix forum. If you mention you are from the slantsix website, they will only charge you 140 for the cam. They have six or eight grinds going from a little above stock to full race. Also, Oregon cam grinding (there's a recent post about it on the slantsix forum) has a ton of slant six cam profiles and will do custom profiles for, don't quote me on this, but I think it's no extra charge. The cool thing is, they will regrind your core for $70, so if you have a slant six cam, send it to them and you get a cam of your choice for $70.

A slant six in a Willys would be, umm...SWEET!!!

[MountainMoparRobin]

I have found the same as you, that alot of small things done, lead to BIG difference. Since you did the research, what is the stock lift & duration on the slantsix? And also since you have all the info already, what does the slant six respond to the best, example 383's seem to give better performance when the cam's duration is higher and closer to the lift than the grinds with largerdistance between lift & duration, visual= 484 lift 295 duration, will give better performance than 484 lift 275 duration.
for if the slantsix finds its way into the 68, I will do it so that turning the key is instant start and idling at stop lights can be done without having to shift to nuetral.

[cfh]

awesmme IWOULD BE INTERESTED IN CARBERATER SETUP. I AM ALSO KEEPING MY 6 IN MY 66UTILINE. Also in the header. All pictures would be cool

[shdnobetter]

That is sweeeeet! You should be proud of it!

[2bluesweptlines]

I know this is a way old post, but here is a sound clip of the engine running. Sorry for the poor quality; I took it with my phone just about an hour ago (hence the dark)

http://youtu.be/Mm-bVA-M8MY