After all the cast iron 4bbl manifold is ready

[MowagW200]

I spent uncounted hours to clean and to remove the rust out of the runners and plenums. To make the runners rust free I took slices of coarse sandpaper /w a thick cord at each end. At least the runners are rust free and looking like polished.
Kind regards

[dakotadave]

i never could get my iron 4bbl manifold to work right on my LA, i think the issue was vacuum leaks between the head/manifold - no gasket seemed to work well and i tried them all (my theory is not proven, i really dont know why it never worked well). it did get perfectly clean in the hot tank, did you have that done?

i put an aluminum weiand on my L:A and it worked immediately. i dont know about availability of manifolds for the A engine though.

what are you doing in the top pic? moving your rad? care to eleborate more on this?

[MowagW200]

Hi Dave, thanks for your answer.
Before I mounted this cast iron 4bbl intake manifold, a Weiand 7503 was mounted. This one I removed and mounted again. The surfaces are clean. I take special care of it.
Always I'm using the same procedure: first a small rope (~ 1/8") around all ports and the outlines of the gasket of RTV at the side of the intake gasket that points to the head. Then I let it cure for about 30 min. and put it onto the heads. After putting it onto the head I put a small rope around all ports and the outlines. For the stock iron manifold I put a 1/4" rope of RTV to the front and back surface of the block. Every screw I got a little bit of RTV to the thread. I never had an issue /w any kind of leaking. I take care of mounting the intake manifold because there are water passages as well. I would really make sure that no water is going to an intake port or into the oil. Wrong air is a bad issue as well.
Did you use RTV as well?
The radiator I removed because I had to remove the water pump and the timing case due to a water leak at a bolt. So I replaced the gaskets (of course after cleaning) and assembled the whole stuff. All the screws (intake, timing case, water pump) I only torqued by hand - no tool. After 24 hours I put the full torque (required) to every screw and filled in the cooling fluid.
This photo I put into this thread because once a friend (in another forum) was asking how I shifted the radiator to make room for a fan /w a fluid (thermal) clutch. Might be that some has an interest about how to shift the rad either.

[wally426ci]

what model intake is that? I like it!

[MowagW200]

It's a small block A intake manifold. It's incompatible with the later LA (wedge head) engines. As far as I got out the intake manifold came from an early A (Plymouth poly).

[dakotadave]

i have a clutch fan and didnt have to move the radiator(?) i used a clutch fan from a late new yorker, bolted right on in place of the solid 4 blade fan. plenty of clearance, much more radical cooling at low speeds. i wonder why you have clearance problems?

i used a little rtv on the water passages even though the gasket instructions say not to (they have a little bead of silicone or something on them right out of the box). i cant remember the number but its a blue felpro gasket. i have had no issues with my aluminum intake.

here is an example; in this pic i have the iron manifold on the truck. please forgive the chevy air filter i have a dodge dual snorkel now. i also have much beefier newer exhaust manifolds.

[MowagW200]

Hi Dave
Thanks a lot for your information about your truck. Originally my truck had a ( ) solid 7 blade fan /w a 3 row rad. The clearance was less than an inch between the rad surface and the solid fan. So there was no chance to mount a visco clutch (a 4 wd version for Dodge Trucks from Rockauto.com) between the waterpump and the rad.

[dakotadave]

i see. your rad fits in a lot different than my two row. you dont have much room at all in there.

[billwiggs]

Do any of you know where I can find an aluminum 4 bbl. manifold for a poly 318, I hear that someone is still manufacturing them but I never
see them in catalogs or can't find them on line. Also I'd like to have a stock cast iron 4 bbl. manifold for a poly. I have a dual cast iron manifold
( 2 -4bbls ), but I'm not into that right now. perhaps a trade????????????????????
Also, is there a good piston available in .60 over for the 318 poly?
I greatly love these poly engines and would like to score a 56 or 57 chrysler poly 354.

[wideblock]

the intakes are not being made any longer. whoever told you that is about 20 years behind the times...lol

i have seen them run across the forums here and there but ebay seems to pop them up pretty regular. expect to pay 350-450 for a good one. the cast iron ones draw good money as well simply because they are hard to come by. put a post in the parts wanted section and see what pops up. as far as pistons go egg machine company has them, kanter has them, nielson has cams. the parts are out there. contact moparnorm@hotmail.com and he can give you all the details on where to get all your parts for a poly. or hit up jeffc on this site. they have both built fresh polys recently.

when you find the 354, find 2 so i can have one too.