Tie Rod Ends
Tie Rod Ends
Im going to rebuild my front steering in my 68. King pins, tie rod ends, center link if I can find it. Am I missing something/any suggestions? Also, I can only find front outer tie rod ends, are both sides the same? Thanks!
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- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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Re: Tie Rod Ends
One side LH threads the other RH - not the same.
There is no center link on a swept.
There is no center link on a swept.
Re: Tie Rod Ends
Makes sense why I can find any center links. I wonder why its so tough to find the left tie rod end. I havent had any luck finding one.
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- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 7437
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Re: Tie Rod Ends
Use the search function here to learn more about the tie rod end issue and solutions.
Re: Tie Rod Ends
I did some searching and got some info on the ends. I do have one questions, and forgive me its a dumb one. Upon my search I have seen others rod and eds set up as well as pics from shop manuals. I didnt see anyone with curved tierod ends like I have. I am not sure what the person before me did, is it stock?
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- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
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Re: Tie Rod Ends
Ive never seen anything like that on a swept. Was the truck lowered?
- my5thmopar
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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Re: Tie Rod Ends
Looks like it to me with the 1948-64 Ford pickup truck dropped tie rod ends. Also, look how tall the axle is and the custom link. If ya need them, Speedway sells them. If I remember correctly, someone else posted about them too. CraigPwrWgnDrvr wrote: ↑Thu Nov 10, 2022 8:00 pmIve never seen anything like that on a swept. Was the truck lowered?
1964 D100 Utiline
2019 Ram Classic
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=36025&hilit=build
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=40251
2019 Ram Classic
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=36025&hilit=build
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=40251
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- Sweptline.ORG Member
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Re: Tie Rod Ends
I have a couple of pairs of the dropped tie rod ends if you're interested. PM me here.
Re: Tie Rod Ends
I was checking speedway. Looks like they have the tierod ends. The entire set up should all be from the 47 Ford?my5thmopar wrote: ↑Thu Nov 10, 2022 9:52 pmLooks like it to me with the 1948-64 Ford pickup truck dropped tie rod ends. Also, look how tall the axle is and the custom link. If ya need them, Speedway sells them. If I remember correctly, someone else posted about them too. CraigPwrWgnDrvr wrote: ↑Thu Nov 10, 2022 8:00 pmIve never seen anything like that on a swept. Was the truck lowered?
Re: Tie Rod Ends
So now that I have figured out my setup, im lost as to what is from my truck and whats from the Ford. My main goal here is driveability. Currently when I hit a bump in the road the wheel whats to go in different directions, its tough to keep straight. I know I need leafsprings but will leaf springs for my truck even work? What else can I check to make it safer to drive? Im also guessing I get king pins from a 47 Ford truck?
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- Sweptline.ORG Member
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Re: Tie Rod Ends
No, more than likely the only "Ford" parts are the dropped tie rod ends and that is due to you having a factory dropped axle that was dropped further by someone (more than likely Sid's (https://droppedaxles.com).
- martincom
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Re: Tie Rod Ends
Before you throw a lot of money at parts and machining services, did you actually check for wear? As the truck has obviously been lowered, so the components are likely not that old nor have seen much use. Replacing perfectly good parts with new will not solve your problem, it will still be there when you're done.
As far as your steering control issue, you likely have an excessive negative caster angle issue. See this link for an explanation of caster: https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/caster/
Typically, vehicles built with manual steering will have a small amount of negative caster, as it provides for easier turning of the wheel. Vehicles equipped with power steering will have positive caster, as it provides self return to straight ahead and is more stable. With front leaf springs, the caster angle will also change with load, as the spring compresses (becomes flatter) and causes the rear shackle to deflect. Likewise, the caster angle will change under heavy braking, as the front end dives.
Caster angle is adjusted on front leaf spring vehicles by a wedge shaped shim installed between the axle spring seat and the leaf springs.
As you have a "Frankenstein", who knows what the actual alignment angles are or if you'll even be able to adjust them to a value that will provide stable operation and not eat tires. Your first step is to find a knowledgeable alignment technician and have your steering angles and toe measured; as well as his opinion of whether you have the adjustment range to yield the desired result. He can also tell you if you have excessive wear of parts that require replacement.
If your front end can be aligned correctly, I'd strongly suggest you spend your money on a power steering gear conversion. With power steering, you can utilize positive caster to provide greater driving stability. Additionally, the power steering gear will have a much faster ratio than the stock manual steering gear, providing far more responsive steering.
I'm always leery of purchasing a Frankenstein. You just never know quite what you are getting into and quite often they are a Pandora's box of issues. I've always had at least one Harley-Davidson since I was a teenager. They are a target rich environment for Frankensteins as most owners simply can't seem to help themselves. I learned the hard way, when I was young, and purchased a couple of chopped Harleys. It was miserable to ride and more often than not, I was never able to make my destination, as it broke down. I quickly acquired a comprehensive assortment of Heli-Coil Master Kits, as nearly every tapped hole in aluminum was stripped or had the wrong thread pitch fastener forced into it. I later found my stock, unmolested, Harleys had far better resale value than any that had been modified, despite the sizeable investment made in those modifications. The best lessons in life are those you pay dearly for.
As far as your steering control issue, you likely have an excessive negative caster angle issue. See this link for an explanation of caster: https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/caster/
Typically, vehicles built with manual steering will have a small amount of negative caster, as it provides for easier turning of the wheel. Vehicles equipped with power steering will have positive caster, as it provides self return to straight ahead and is more stable. With front leaf springs, the caster angle will also change with load, as the spring compresses (becomes flatter) and causes the rear shackle to deflect. Likewise, the caster angle will change under heavy braking, as the front end dives.
Caster angle is adjusted on front leaf spring vehicles by a wedge shaped shim installed between the axle spring seat and the leaf springs.
As you have a "Frankenstein", who knows what the actual alignment angles are or if you'll even be able to adjust them to a value that will provide stable operation and not eat tires. Your first step is to find a knowledgeable alignment technician and have your steering angles and toe measured; as well as his opinion of whether you have the adjustment range to yield the desired result. He can also tell you if you have excessive wear of parts that require replacement.
If your front end can be aligned correctly, I'd strongly suggest you spend your money on a power steering gear conversion. With power steering, you can utilize positive caster to provide greater driving stability. Additionally, the power steering gear will have a much faster ratio than the stock manual steering gear, providing far more responsive steering.
I'm always leery of purchasing a Frankenstein. You just never know quite what you are getting into and quite often they are a Pandora's box of issues. I've always had at least one Harley-Davidson since I was a teenager. They are a target rich environment for Frankensteins as most owners simply can't seem to help themselves. I learned the hard way, when I was young, and purchased a couple of chopped Harleys. It was miserable to ride and more often than not, I was never able to make my destination, as it broke down. I quickly acquired a comprehensive assortment of Heli-Coil Master Kits, as nearly every tapped hole in aluminum was stripped or had the wrong thread pitch fastener forced into it. I later found my stock, unmolested, Harleys had far better resale value than any that had been modified, despite the sizeable investment made in those modifications. The best lessons in life are those you pay dearly for.
1*1971 D100 318 A/T
1*1970 Charger R/T 440-6PK A/T
2*1969 Daytona Charger 440 A/T
1*1969 Coronet R/T awaiting restoration
1*1969 Torino Talladega awaiting restoration
1*1970 Charger R/T 440-6PK A/T
2*1969 Daytona Charger 440 A/T
1*1969 Coronet R/T awaiting restoration
1*1969 Torino Talladega awaiting restoration