Sweptline.ORG

HERE ARE THE PHOTOS FROM DAY ONE... Everything went smoothly until I got the castle nuts off the lower mounting bolts. They will not come loose. I read about a guy who broke a 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bar trying to remove them. Yippeeeeee. Can't wait.

I will post more tomorrow, including a nice photo of my new parts assembled and ready for the install.

Cheers
Chuck

craftsman 1/2 breakers are notoriously weak so dont let that scare you. Oddly the harbor freight 9.99 breaker is stonger but i wont buy one because they are made in china. I have a Proto that works great, or use air.

Good day, and welcome to Day Two...

Great progress today as I finally removed the lower mounting bolts from the drum backing plate. I basically just stuck a pipe on the end of the breaker bar to add some leverage and they broke loose. Tight sons of guns though.

After removing the last of the stock "discard pieces," I cleaned the whole assembly and proceeded with the dry fit of the new parts.

A note on the Scarebird backing plates/mounts. The notch cut for the caliper on the rearward edge is EXACTLY the same size as the calipers I bought. I will need to grind just a tiny bit in order to fit them up.

Here are some pics.
More to come including new hoses and a look at some other hardware.

NOTE: When you have all of this stuff torn apart, it's a really convenient time to grease evrything. Not that it's very difficult under normal circumstances, but it will NEVER be easier than it is right now.
Cheers!

Chuck

Remember to torque the bolts to the proper settings, bottom is 100 lbs and the upper ones are 35 lbs of torque. Jim

Post parts list. please
i may have to do this.
can we use the factory hubs?

do you have complete parts list for this conversion.

i want to do conversion on my 68d100. one other conversion shows you have to have the hubs cut down. i rather have the new hubs.

Sorry for the delay fellas.

work work work.

I will provide a comprehensive parts list including master cyl., prop valve and dust covers.

new hubs are available from scarebird for 245. orig. hubs will need machined.

more to come.

chuck

Not all hubs need to be turned. I did this conversion on my 63. My hubs fit inside rotors and were actually loose fit. Crown vic rotors have some small holes with metric threads in the face by lugs. I just put rotors on held by lug nuts,centered rotor with dial indicator for runout and drilled through threaded holes then installed metric bolts from backside of hubs into rotors to hold rotors in place......still don't believe new hubs are 76 Aspen as Aspens had full rotors and not hubs like these. Dodge started using disc rotors in late 60 early 70s instead of drums on the front...I think Scarebird has some stock or an outlet and not giving source for new hubs..............pat

@Pat, AKA "dahooligan"

Info regarding the origin of the new hubs comes from the grayest graybeard working at my local Parts Store. Scarebird referred to them simply as "Aspen" hubs. My initial claim was that they were either from the car or less likely from the late model SUV. Turns out they are from the car.
Both wheel bearings and the rear seal I am using, as well as the new dust covers are part numbers associated with a 1976 Aspen. While I am certain that other vehicles used these same bearings and seals, I fail to see the advantage in two unrelated entities telling me the same lie. Furthermore,
App: 1976-1980 Dodge Aspen
Brand: Centric
Part #: 121.6301
Notes: CENTRIC C-TEK BRAKE DISC, STANDARD, VENTED, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 5 x 4.5 in. PCD bolt pattern; 10.98 in. outer diameter; 1.03 in. nominal thickness; 0.94 in. minimum thickness; This is a high quality OE replacement brake disc.
Location: Front
Series: C-Tek
Quantitysold: Sold individually
Warranty: Centric's limited 90-day or 3,000-mile warranty
Design: OE comparablePrice: $42.50


Quantity
Make Model Year Range Chassis/Engine
Dodge Aspen 1976 - 1977 Custom; All Engines;
Dodge Aspen 1976 - 1977 Special Edition; All Engines;
Dodge Aspen 1976 - 1980 Base; All Engines;

Warmest regards.
Chuck

I'll be keeping close eye on this myself!! Lookin good!

Please don't call me a liar...I just stated I didn't think these were aspen hubs.....I owned two Dodge aspens and neither had hub or hat rotors as you show, but full rotors...I checked with four different parts stores and only thing they show is full regular rotors for a Dodge aspen...hubs were not show anywhere....but then I guess they must be liars too...There are other things one learns when doing this conversion thats not in Scarebirds instructions but then again I would probably be called a liar.........Pat, AKA "dahooligan"

--> insert Smiley scratching head

Hey Pat, chill out.

The two "liars" mentioned in my post would be my parts store and Scarebird, LLC., NOT YOU. If anything, I feel as if you're calling me out by arguing the validity of my info. Even at that, I haven't made any defensive overtures. Relax bud, it's just a truck.

I mentioned that I didn't think that there was any advantage to two entities telling the same lie. What would they have to gain? Do you suppose they did it in hopes of starting a ridiculous back-and-forth between two truck enthusiasts? Perhaps to conceal their secret stash of wheel hubs that fell from outer space?

Dodge probably built these cars with seperate hubs/rotors for awhile and then upgraded to a unit part. I don't know. Without going back in time or combing through some moldy service manuals, I never will.

I have seen the hub/rotor UNIT, meaning a solid cast hub/rotor for sale on NAPA.com. I have also NEVER seen any seperate "hubs" for sale other than those offered by Scarebird, LLC. Since I have a set in my posession and they have a Pentastar cast into the face of the part and all of the 1976 Dodge Aspen bearings and seals fit into them, what am I to believe?

Whatever the deal is, if you want to get to the bottom of it, e-mail Scarebird, LLC. As for me, I couldn't care less. These things fit and they're already mounted on the truck. I don't care if they came off the Oscar Meyer Weinermobile.

If there are those of you who are still interested in reading this post, please do so in good faith. I would have nothing to gain by misleading anyone. I have learned a lot from this web-community, and I am grateful for the knowledge and feedback. I am gathering together my parts list today for a post later on.

Cheers,

Chuck

Hey, the wienermobile kicked @#%!! Nuf said...
LOL

Okay, here is the parts list as comprehensive as my particular case goes. I apologize in advance for the semi blurry pics. Reman. Master Cylinder Part number
(no pic yet)

Federated Auto Parts
#10-1515

I hope this is helpful.
cheers,

Chuck

One more thing. I'm sure we all have our favorite brand of petro-chemical lubricants and cleaning products.
Here are the products I'm using. I am not endorsing any of them in particular, just wanted to share as much as I can. Oh yeah, this is also a no-brainer, but I'll post it just as a reminder to myself...

This is also the time to go over the rest of the brakes with a fine toothed comb. Nothing would suck more than to have put time/effort/money into a really cool project like this one only to experience a big brake fail because of bad rear wheel cylinders or crappy old hard lines.

I plan on making a thorough inspection of the rest of the system and documenting it here.

Be cool.

Chuck

Doing this myself. I love the write up. Where does the p-valve go in the brake line? Do i need to keep the original block and put it after the block going to the back brakes? HELP!! I don't know what to do.....

Chuck, i really apreciate a write up on this. Whats your final cost? Did you add a power booster?

Do you think its possible to use a sock non-adjustable brass proportioning valve from a 73 dart or something...?

WELL SAID CHUCK. HOPE TO SEE PARTS LIST SOON.