SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, Wheels steeringetc..
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SomethingCrazy68
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SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

HERE ARE THE PHOTOS FROM DAY ONE...
WHEEL IN THE AIR
WHEEL IN THE AIR
#1.jpg (26.63 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
BRAKE HARDWARE REMOVED
BRAKE HARDWARE REMOVED
#2.jpg (21.51 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
LOWER MOUNTING BOLTS AND CASTLE NUTS
LOWER MOUNTING BOLTS AND CASTLE NUTS
#3.jpg (22.57 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
REARWARD MOUNTING BOLT AND CASTLE NUT
REARWARD MOUNTING BOLT AND CASTLE NUT
#4.jpg (28.55 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
END OF DAY ONE
END OF DAY ONE
#5.jpg (25.06 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
Everything went smoothly until I got the castle nuts off the lower mounting bolts. They will not come loose. I read about a guy who broke a 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bar trying to remove them. Yippeeeeee. Can't wait.

I will post more tomorrow, including a nice photo of my new parts assembled and ready for the install.

Cheers
Chuck

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by robertob »

craftsman 1/2 breakers are notoriously weak so dont let that scare you. Oddly the harbor freight 9.99 breaker is stonger but i wont buy one because they are made in china. I have a Proto that works great, or use air.

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

Good day, and welcome to Day Two...

Great progress today as I finally removed the lower mounting bolts from the drum backing plate. I basically just stuck a pipe on the end of the breaker bar to add some leverage and they broke loose. Tight sons of guns though.

After removing the last of the stock "discard pieces," I cleaned the whole assembly and proceeded with the dry fit of the new parts.

A note on the Scarebird backing plates/mounts. The notch cut for the caliper on the rearward edge is EXACTLY the same size as the calipers I bought. I will need to grind just a tiny bit in order to fit them up.

Here are some pics.
Welcome to Day Two.
Welcome to Day Two.
day 2...4.jpg (27.33 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
Here are my assembled new parts.  They include rotors, calipers, hubs, pads and Scarebird plates/mounts.
Here are my assembled new parts. They include rotors, calipers, hubs, pads and Scarebird plates/mounts.
day 2...7.jpg (28.37 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
Down to the spindles...time to clean these up a little.
Down to the spindles...time to clean these up a little.
day 2...6.jpg (30.13 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
A small flat screwdriver, brass bristle brush and an entire can of Brakekleen.
A small flat screwdriver, brass bristle brush and an entire can of Brakekleen.
day2...5.jpg (27.44 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
Scarebird plates/mounts dry fit.  Looks good and a clean fit.
Scarebird plates/mounts dry fit. Looks good and a clean fit.
day 2...3.jpg (23.52 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
New hubs.  There was a little confusion regarding the origin of these hubs.  They are, indeed, 1976 Dodge Aspen hubs, as I was previously told by Scarebird.  I purchased new inner and outer wheel bearings (NATIONAL BEARING/FEDERAL MOGUL) and a new seal for each wheel.  In this photo notice there is no keeper on the spindle nut, nor is there a cotter pin, as this was only a dry fit.  Bearings will be packed with proper wheel bearing grease and seal tapped in place.  Seal is a slight upgrade from stock as it includes a dust shroud on the inner side.  New cotter pins and dust covers will be used on the outward side as well.
New hubs. There was a little confusion regarding the origin of these hubs. They are, indeed, 1976 Dodge Aspen hubs, as I was previously told by Scarebird. I purchased new inner and outer wheel bearings (NATIONAL BEARING/FEDERAL MOGUL) and a new seal for each wheel. In this photo notice there is no keeper on the spindle nut, nor is there a cotter pin, as this was only a dry fit. Bearings will be packed with proper wheel bearing grease and seal tapped in place. Seal is a slight upgrade from stock as it includes a dust shroud on the inner side. New cotter pins and dust covers will be used on the outward side as well.
day 2...2.jpg (21.93 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
...aaaaand the rotor.  Sweet fitment here and a really nice part.  Note zip tie retainer as I have yet to purchase right hand thread lug nuts.  Unforyunately this is where I stop for today.  I need to relieve the caliper mounting area just a tad in order to fit those up tomorrow.  Thanks for looking!
...aaaaand the rotor. Sweet fitment here and a really nice part. Note zip tie retainer as I have yet to purchase right hand thread lug nuts. Unforyunately this is where I stop for today. I need to relieve the caliper mounting area just a tad in order to fit those up tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
day 2...1.jpg (21.6 KiB) Viewed 3110 times
More to come including new hoses and a look at some other hardware.

NOTE: When you have all of this stuff torn apart, it's a really convenient time to grease evrything. Not that it's very difficult under normal circumstances, but it will NEVER be easier than it is right now.
Cheers!

Chuck

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by JimE »

Remember to torque the bolts to the proper settings, bottom is 100 lbs and the upper ones are 35 lbs of torque. Jim

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by oklamopar »

Post parts list. please
i may have to do this.
can we use the factory hubs?

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by 68slant »

do you have complete parts list for this conversion.

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by 68slant »

i want to do conversion on my 68d100. one other conversion shows you have to have the hubs cut down. i rather have the new hubs.

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

Sorry for the delay fellas.

work work work.

I will provide a comprehensive parts list including master cyl., prop valve and dust covers.

new hubs are available from scarebird for 245. orig. hubs will need machined.

more to come.

chuck

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by dahooligan »

Not all hubs need to be turned. I did this conversion on my 63. My hubs fit inside rotors and were actually loose fit. Crown vic rotors have some small holes with metric threads in the face by lugs. I just put rotors on held by lug nuts,centered rotor with dial indicator for runout and drilled through threaded holes then installed metric bolts from backside of hubs into rotors to hold rotors in place......still don't believe new hubs are 76 Aspen as Aspens had full rotors and not hubs like these. Dodge started using disc rotors in late 60 early 70s instead of drums on the front...I think Scarebird has some stock or an outlet and not giving source for new hubs..............pat

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

@Pat, AKA "dahooligan"

Info regarding the origin of the new hubs comes from the grayest graybeard working at my local Parts Store. Scarebird referred to them simply as "Aspen" hubs. My initial claim was that they were either from the car or less likely from the late model SUV. Turns out they are from the car.
Both wheel bearings and the rear seal I am using, as well as the new dust covers are part numbers associated with a 1976 Aspen. While I am certain that other vehicles used these same bearings and seals, I fail to see the advantage in two unrelated entities telling me the same lie. Furthermore,
rotor.jpg
rotor.jpg (2.7 KiB) Viewed 2939 times
App: 1976-1980 Dodge Aspen
Brand: Centric
Part #: 121.6301
Notes: CENTRIC C-TEK BRAKE DISC, STANDARD, VENTED, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 5 x 4.5 in. PCD bolt pattern; 10.98 in. outer diameter; 1.03 in. nominal thickness; 0.94 in. minimum thickness; This is a high quality OE replacement brake disc.
Location: Front
Series: C-Tek
Quantitysold: Sold individually
Warranty: Centric's limited 90-day or 3,000-mile warranty
Design: OE comparablePrice: $42.50


Quantity
Make Model Year Range Chassis/Engine
Dodge Aspen 1976 - 1977 Custom; All Engines;
Dodge Aspen 1976 - 1977 Special Edition; All Engines;
Dodge Aspen 1976 - 1980 Base; All Engines;

Warmest regards.
Chuck

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by wally426ci »

I'll be keeping close eye on this myself!! Lookin good! :clap

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by dahooligan »

Please don't call me a liar...I just stated I didn't think these were aspen hubs.....I owned two Dodge aspens and neither had hub or hat rotors as you show, but full rotors...I checked with four different parts stores and only thing they show is full regular rotors for a Dodge aspen...hubs were not show anywhere....but then I guess they must be liars too...There are other things one learns when doing this conversion thats not in Scarebirds instructions but then again I would probably be called a liar.........Pat, AKA "dahooligan"

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by wally426ci »

--> insert Smiley scratching head

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

Hey Pat, chill out.

The two "liars" mentioned in my post would be my parts store and Scarebird, LLC., NOT YOU. If anything, I feel as if you're calling me out by arguing the validity of my info. Even at that, I haven't made any defensive overtures. Relax bud, it's just a truck.

I mentioned that I didn't think that there was any advantage to two entities telling the same lie. What would they have to gain? Do you suppose they did it in hopes of starting a ridiculous back-and-forth between two truck enthusiasts? Perhaps to conceal their secret stash of wheel hubs that fell from outer space?

Dodge probably built these cars with seperate hubs/rotors for awhile and then upgraded to a unit part. I don't know. Without going back in time or combing through some moldy service manuals, I never will.

I have seen the hub/rotor UNIT, meaning a solid cast hub/rotor for sale on NAPA.com. I have also NEVER seen any seperate "hubs" for sale other than those offered by Scarebird, LLC. Since I have a set in my posession and they have a Pentastar cast into the face of the part and all of the 1976 Dodge Aspen bearings and seals fit into them, what am I to believe?

Whatever the deal is, if you want to get to the bottom of it, e-mail Scarebird, LLC. As for me, I couldn't care less. These things fit and they're already mounted on the truck. I don't care if they came off the Oscar Meyer Weinermobile.

If there are those of you who are still interested in reading this post, please do so in good faith. I would have nothing to gain by misleading anyone. I have learned a lot from this web-community, and I am grateful for the knowledge and feedback. I am gathering together my parts list today for a post later on.

Cheers,

Chuck

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by RH62 »

Hey, the wienermobile kicked @#%!! Nuf said...
LOL

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

Okay, here is the parts list as comprehensive as my particular case goes. I apologize in advance for the semi blurry pics.
SCAREBIRD LLC. stuff<br />Hub with pressed in Right Hand studs<br />Banjo Bolts for chevy calipers<br />Mounting plates<br />All available at Scarebird's website.
SCAREBIRD LLC. stuff
Hub with pressed in Right Hand studs
Banjo Bolts for chevy calipers
Mounting plates
All available at Scarebird's website.
33.jpg (22.84 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Rotor<br />NAPA #4886492<br />QTY. 2
Rotor
NAPA #4886492
QTY. 2
44.jpg (24.71 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Calipers<br />NAPA &quot;Total Eclipse&quot; Semi-loaded<br />#SE-4850<br />#SE-4851
Calipers
NAPA "Total Eclipse" Semi-loaded
#SE-4850
#SE-4851
8.jpg (25.03 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
PADS<br />NAPA &quot;Tru-Stop&quot; set of four<br />#TS-7259B-M
PADS
NAPA "Tru-Stop" set of four
#TS-7259B-M
6.jpg (17.15 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Bearings and seal<br />ALL parts from National/Federal Mogul/Moog<br />Inner Bearing=I don't have the number.  Spec for a 1976 Dodge Aspen<br />Seal #5121<br /><br />Outer Bearing #LM11949
Bearings and seal
ALL parts from National/Federal Mogul/Moog
Inner Bearing=I don't have the number. Spec for a 1976 Dodge Aspen
Seal #5121

Outer Bearing #LM11949
5.jpg (20.63 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Flex lines<br />NAPA<br />#36855<br />#36856
Flex lines
NAPA
#36855
#36856
3.jpg (14.88 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Keepers<br />(optional part)<br />AuvecoPak #AP9299
Keepers
(optional part)
AuvecoPak #AP9299
7.jpg (27 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Proportioning valve<br />SSBC #A0707-1
Proportioning valve
SSBC #A0707-1
2.jpg (16.37 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Dust cap<br />NEEDA? #139754
Dust cap
NEEDA? #139754
1.jpg (22.15 KiB) Viewed 2730 times
Reman. Master Cylinder Part number
(no pic yet)

Federated Auto Parts
#10-1515

I hope this is helpful.
cheers,

Chuck
Last edited by SomethingCrazy68 on Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SomethingCrazy68 »

One more thing. I'm sure we all have our favorite brand of petro-chemical lubricants and cleaning products.
Here are the products I'm using. I am not endorsing any of them in particular, just wanted to share as much as I can.
Permatex Anti-seize<br />(don't get it in your eyes...if you do you'll &quot;never seez&quot; again.)<br />PB Blaster=nastiest penetrant i have ever used.  Over time this stuff will release almost anything<br />Lucas HD wheel bearing grease.<br />Brakleen brake parts cleaner<br />aaand some good old tube grease for that easy lube job while the whole front end is torn apart.
Permatex Anti-seize
(don't get it in your eyes...if you do you'll "never seez" again.)
PB Blaster=nastiest penetrant i have ever used. Over time this stuff will release almost anything
Lucas HD wheel bearing grease.
Brakleen brake parts cleaner
aaand some good old tube grease for that easy lube job while the whole front end is torn apart.
22.jpg (24.3 KiB) Viewed 2729 times
Oh yeah, this is also a no-brainer, but I'll post it just as a reminder to myself...

This is also the time to go over the rest of the brakes with a fine toothed comb. Nothing would suck more than to have put time/effort/money into a really cool project like this one only to experience a big brake fail because of bad rear wheel cylinders or crappy old hard lines.

I plan on making a thorough inspection of the rest of the system and documenting it here.

Be cool.

Chuck

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by SuperSweptline69 »

Doing this myself. I love the write up. Where does the p-valve go in the brake line? Do i need to keep the original block and put it after the block going to the back brakes? HELP!! I don't know what to do.....

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by wally426ci »

Chuck, i really apreciate a write up on this. Whats your final cost? Did you add a power booster?

Do you think its possible to use a sock non-adjustable brass proportioning valve from a 73 dart or something...? :thinking

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Re: SCAREBIRD CONVERSION PHOTO ESSAY

Post by 68slant »

WELL SAID CHUCK. HOPE TO SEE PARTS LIST SOON.

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