what have you guys done when running new brake lines....any kit out there or buy line and the tools to flange them and all?
thanks
Judd
running new brake lines
Re: running new brake lines
Paris, TX. I get through there from time to time. I did my '67 D200/383/727/4.10AS last year from stem to stearn. I got all preflared pipes and tubing bender. I tried to do a somewhat sanitary job of pulling all the old pipes so I would have a better handle on bends and fittings. I replaced everything (including shoes, hardware and drums). Vacuum booster and front/rear junction block (there's no "proportioning valve) are the only parts I didn't replace. I took a full day, sunrise to sunset. John, Tyler, TX
Re: running new brake lines
what do you come through paris doing? i have nothing on my truck i ripped all the old off and will start from scratch...so you bought pipe with flared ends and a pipebender and bent yours where you needed and did it that way? i have 4 wheel disk brakes now so i will have to have a proportion valve in there which will mean i will need a couple extra flared ends on mine also right?
Re: running new brake lines
My "67 is all stock. I pretty much made copies of all the old parts as, close as possible, allowing for a diy screw together kit. You will need a proportioning valve but the actual plumbing is about the same. Brake pipes are all double flares and I've never tried to do those myself, i.e. the reason I bought all pre flared pipe. The 3 main things to be aware of is: No kinked pipe, No rubbing, and avoid hot spots (exhaust). Also keep slack in the pipes from master cylinder to proportioning valve with loose coils or even just "s" curves. I nearly forgot to mention, don't confuse the front and rear pipes into and out of the proportioning valve. I drive an 18 wheeler and pass through Paris from time to time. I also have an Uncle near Tulsa. Paris is about dead center between Tulsa and Tyler, TX. My cell phone is 903-372-9742. Feel free to call any time (day or nite). If I don't answer, leave a msg and I will get back to you when I wake up. My e-mail is: bolja@netzero.net but I only use it 3-4 days per month. John, Tyler, TX
- RussRoth
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Vancouver, WA
- Location: Vancouver, WA
- Contact:
Re: running new brake lines
I made all new lines for mine. Just used the old as a pattern. You have to use a double flare tool and a cheap one will NOT work. I tried a couple different ones before I sprung for a good one from NAPA. What John is referring to as a proportioning valve is not that. It is a combination valve and turns the dash light on if you lose pressure on one side of the system. Usually you know something is wrong before the light comes on. Otherwise it just T's off the 2 front brakes to either side. The only reason the rear brakes are hooked into it is for the other side of the light portion of it. It doesn't bias anything so is not really needed. BTW, I need to redo my lines out of the master and I am going to replace my valve with a brass T.
RR
Vancouver, WA
'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
4.10 powerlock
8R19.5 tires
Vancouver, WA
'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
4.10 powerlock
8R19.5 tires
- chilort
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 971
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Cookeville
- State: TN
- Location: TN
Re: running new brake lines
I bought a kit from Summit that included a tube cutter, flare tool, bender, and some tube. I've used it to make new fuel lines and trans cooler lines as well. You can get the el cheapo double flare tool to work but it requires an extra tool....
![Image](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2763/4340546073_cb60180afc.jpg)
I've done a lot of line like this.
![Image](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2763/4340546073_cb60180afc.jpg)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
I've done a lot of line like this.
- RussRoth
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Vancouver, WA
- Location: Vancouver, WA
- Contact:
Re: running new brake lines
Ha! I had mine like that clamped in a vise and it still wouldn't work.chilort wrote:I bought a kit from Summit that included a tube cutter, flare tool, bender, and some tube. I've used it to make new fuel lines and trans cooler lines as well. You can get the el cheapo double flare tool to work but it requires an extra tool....
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
I've done a lot of line like this.
![Turn Pale :pale](./images/smilies/icon_pale.gif)
![Turn Pale :pale](./images/smilies/icon_pale.gif)
![bang :banghead](./images/smilies/icon_bang.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Thinking :thinking](./images/smilies/icon_think.gif)
RR
Vancouver, WA
'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
4.10 powerlock
8R19.5 tires
Vancouver, WA
'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
4.10 powerlock
8R19.5 tires
- hampstead38
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:43 pm
- City: Denton
- State: MD
- Location: Maryland's Eastern Shore
Re: running new brake lines
I see used Snap On flaring kits come up on eBay from time to time.
- nfury8
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 2443
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- City: KC, MO
- Location: Kansas City
- Contact:
Re: running new brake lines
A roll of tubing and a flare tool is all I used on mine. I just started laying it out, marking and
bending. Went real easy. Just move slowly. Coat hangers or other stiff wire can be used to
experiment with and make patterns off of.
A 4 wheel disc system will require a proportioning valve so the rears can be reduced.
The calipers are much more powerful than the wheel cylinders. If a proportioning valve
isn't used the rears will lock up way to fast. The small inline adjustable proportioning
valves are the best bet. This is the only thing I have in my system on my 4 wheel disc Fury.
bending. Went real easy. Just move slowly. Coat hangers or other stiff wire can be used to
experiment with and make patterns off of.
A 4 wheel disc system will require a proportioning valve so the rears can be reduced.
The calipers are much more powerful than the wheel cylinders. If a proportioning valve
isn't used the rears will lock up way to fast. The small inline adjustable proportioning
valves are the best bet. This is the only thing I have in my system on my 4 wheel disc Fury.
71 D100 Adventurer SE - PowerWagon conversion
70 W200 CrewCab - Urban Assault Kiddie Hauler
69 Plymouth Fury III Convertible - Pro Touring Machine
69 Plymouth Fury III Convertible - Beater, Hiding in a cave
70 W200 CrewCab - Urban Assault Kiddie Hauler
69 Plymouth Fury III Convertible - Pro Touring Machine
69 Plymouth Fury III Convertible - Beater, Hiding in a cave