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I just finished the disc brake setup from Scarebird. Haven't driven it much, just up
and down the street to seat the pads, but it definitely feels better.
They really did their homework putting these parts together. Very well executed.
I'll report back as soon as I get some miles on it.
-Ed

Did you use everything they recommend or supply? I'm curious what it would cost.

Yes, more info please, I just ordered my backing plates Monday.

Jim

Yes I used what Scarebird had on their list. It went together fairly well.
I'm amazed that they figured out all the different parts to work together.
I have to find all my receipts but I think I spent around $700. But, this also
includes $100 core charge for the calipers that I need to find some old ones
to get some of my money back. I also just bought all my parts from my local NAPA,
and got their premium rotors and pads, etc. I'm sure you could save some money by
shopping around or buying online. In addition I replaced the outer bearings which you
may not have to do.
All in all I think it's a good setup. If it stops as good as it looks, I'll be all set.
-Ed

That picture helps alot. I haven't installed my conversion yet but from the looks of it you use the existing hub/spindle on your pickup, correct? Also what is everyone using for a porportional valve (front/back brake bias valve)?

Yes I used the existing hub and spindle.
So far I haven't used a proportioning valve. I still have to make some hard
stops to see if I need one. But so far it's working fine as is.

In case they might help here's a couple more pics.
I have some more but they are too big to load. I have to load a program
to reduce them.

i wish they made these for the 8 lug axles. i had a hell of a time buying new drums a few years ago (6 years)

Yeah, make a kit for the large knuckle D44, and for the rear w/D60, as well.

Should be able to do this, and use some choices of calipers that give you a front brake bias automatically.

Dodge383fi wrote:Yes I used the existing hub and spindle.
So far I haven't used a proportioning valve. I still have to make some hard
stops to see if I need one. But so far it's working fine as is.

In their instructions, did they leave the proportioning valve as an option?

Good thread here about the prop valves
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=21343

Hewy wrote:

Dodge383fi wrote:Yes I used the existing hub and spindle.
So far I haven't used a proportioning valve. I still have to make some hard
stops to see if I need one. But so far it's working fine as is.

In their instructions, did they leave the proportioning valve as an option?

Yes they did. They say to "Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the
rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve if rear suffers from excessive lockup in
panic stops".

Dodge never used a proportioning valve, it is merely a T for the front and an idiot light for loss of pressure.

Hello - I'm just curious have you had a chance to drive it yet? I have the same conversion on my '66 D-100 and I'm interested to see if you have similar results.

murdockrecords wrote:Hello - I'm just curious have you had a chance to drive it yet? I have the same conversion on my '66 D-100 and I'm interested to see if you have similar results.

I've been driving mine off and on (it's a weekend truck). I like the difference. Smooth even stops. No pulling.
Much better in the wet. I haven't made any panic stops yet but I think I will probably have some rear lockup.
This is based on a stop I made the other day when I believe my right rear started to lock. But it also did it
when I had drums on the front so I need to get out there and check my adjustments for both rear wheels
before I can do any serious testing. But definitely better.
-Ed

Hey Ed. May I suggest trying your first panic stop in a safe area, like an empty lot? Personally I am not that jazzed with the set up. All our driving is in Central Florida, known to some as the traffic sphincter hole of America. It's pretty much combat driving. With the Scarebird conversion, in a quick stop - forget about it. Maybe a long gradual slow down, that's about the best ours will do. Actually, I wish I had the drum brakes back on it. At least then, when you had to get down on it to stop, that big rolling turd would lock up and start screeching, and people would get out of the way. Now I have nightmares about a long slow down, right off a cliff. :)

please post if you get yours dialed in better than mine.

I drive mine in Atlanta during rush hour (when it is running) and I LOVE having disc brakes. It doesn't stop on a dime but it stops much better than it ever did with drums. The harder I push the brakes the harder it grabs. I've never had to do a lockup stop but that might be because they are working.

I hear you man - there is a reason the whole world converted to disc brakes - because it is better. I don't know...maybe it's just my rig.

Did you use new calipers? What pads? I hate to hear that someone has done this conversion and it isn't working out for them. My wife wouldn't drive the truck before the disc brake conversion and now she's fine.

I did this conversion 2 years ago and the truck stops every bit as good as my 91 d100 did. I didn't add a porportioning valve and have't had the rears lock up yet mind you i also havn't had to do a panic stop either. On the same note i have had several of my pickups over the years that if you had the rear shoes adjusted right up and the truck was empty the rears would tend to lock up on a hard stop these were both gm's and dodge with disc/drum brakes. An adjustable porportioning valve would probably work ok as long as you are willing to readjust it when you put a load in the truck. My cure for these trucks was to back the adjustment off just a hair more. Just my 2cents junkyarddodge