Scarebird parts on the way!

[SomethingCrazy68]

I finally did it! Disc brakes, here we come!
I look forward to the project and the expected result.
Many thanks to those of you who have posted on the subject. Your experience made my decision easier.
Any advice would be welcome.
I'll take some pictures; maybe we can pair them up with the install instructions on a tech article.

Thanks again.

Chuck

[Angry68d100]

Have you got a disc brake conversion kit. That would make me a very happy dude

[SomethingCrazy68]

Well...get happy dude! I got my mounting plates today and I expect my new hubs tomorrow.

[Angry68d100]

He'll yeah

Can you give me the scare bird details so I can order mine

I have all other things sorted out now and that would be the icing on the cake

[SomethingCrazy68]

All the details you need are on here already and on the Scarebird, LLC website.

I ordered directly from their site. Their mounting plates cost 130 + shipping.
I also bought a set of hubs which ran 245 + shipping.

They have a list of vehicles, just find the listing for your truck and click on the "buy now" button. The rest is self explanatory.

http://www.scarebird.com/index.php?id=1

In the box with the mounting plates will be an instruction sheet. At the bottom is a list of additional parts you will need to complete the conversion. I stopped at NAPA this morning and verified part numbers and availability. Everything checks out with the exception of some outdated numbers on the calipers. They should have no problem finding them with the info. provided though.

You'll need an old set of calipers if you don't want to get popped on the core charge, but that is easy enough if you have a pick-and-pull nearby.

Personally, I think I'm going to have braided lines made up for my truck, but the rubber flex lines are available and look good.

All told I am probably looking at something in the neighborhood of $200.00 a wheel, minus the cost of hubs. Pretty good looking stuff too. That's with premium rotors and pads with reman. calipers.

If you use your stock hubs you will have to have them macined a bit to fit inside the new rotors. Figure on a small fee there.

rock on.

[miatasportscar]

Instead of machining the original hubs you bought new hubs? What kind of new hubs and part numbers are correct? Thanks,
Gerry

[SomethingCrazy68]

@Gerry
yeah...my hubs were in sorry shape with a big chip out of the leading edge and a disfigured stud hole from a previous emergency repair.

the hubs I got were offered on the scarebird site. I am told that they are ASPEN hubs. My assumption is that they mean the 70s and 80s car version of the Aspen and not the late model Chrysler SUV.

I do not have any part numbers...there is nothing stamped on them except a pentastar cast into the front. they look good to me...still have to gather some parts and do a dry fit...but looks good so far.

[miatasportscar]

Take some pictures as you do the project. Are you including power brake booster? My '65 only has one brake fluid resovour, mine would be harder to plumb up I bet. Wonder if anyone ever changed to discs using one brake resovoir?
Keep the story/pics coming, interested in seeing this done.
Gerry

[SomethingCrazy68]

I have not committed to adding a power brake booster. I am currently investigating the pros and cons of that particular upgrade and the need to change master cylinders. There are some posts mentioning an upgrade to 72 and later master cyls. I think that there is a difference in bore. I will defer to anyone else's expertise immediately, that is until my own research demands that I adopt a plan for myself.

I think that the main idea in upgrading is that you go from single reservoir to dual reservoir. I used to have a 66 Coronet with a single res. master cylinder. 15 yrs. ago no one was even offering a reman kit for it. (These days, because of the "Concours d'Elegance" crowd, you can rebuild anything.) I personally would recommend that anyone doing any RESTO/MOD type of work to upgrade to a dual reservoir Master for the simple reason that, in the event of any brake line failure, two wheel braking would still be in working order.

I am only waiting for better weather (i.e. above 20 degrees for 5 days in a row.) and for the ground to firm up a bit. The spot where I plan on doing all the wrenching requires me to drive over some soft ground and I do not want to get stuck.

I plan on documenting the process in a comprehensive manner, so pics will be forthcoming.

I invite any other "ScarebirdERS" to chime in here. I have read all of the posts regarding this process at least once. Any extra encouragement or advice/reminders would be appreciated. This project is simple in most ways, but so very important...in that it will be an upgrade only if I don't eff it up. Thanks in advance for the responses.

cheers.

[carnuck]

Changing from the single servo to a manual brake master from say '66ish Valiant might work. Check the bore diameter and length. You do NOT want a larger bore with manual brakes! The bigger the bore, the harder it is to push. Ask Scarebird about a master (I talk to them now and again)

[dahooligan]

Don't think they would be aspen hubs as the 70/80s aspens had full rotor.....would have to be a car/truck with drum brakes to start with to get hubs like on our trucks...I went to NAPA and they did some checking and listed no hubs as such...maybe an old dealer buy or stash find???................pat

[miatasportscar]

It would be nice to know where your replacement hubs came from. Has anyone ever done this remake and sourced the correct replacement hubs? Maybe from a full sized Chrysler, Dodge car? Would be interesting to find the correct part numbers, make model of what Mopar product to look for. Always better to have the parts in stock readfy to go before buying the rest of the stuff....anyone know this?
Gerry

[robertob]

ask scarebird, they will send you the instructions and parts list. As for the booster, if you use an original one you can use Chevy master cylinders in different bore diameters to fine tune the pedal travel and brake feel. According to the parts books the D200s with and without power use the same mc bore (1.125). I am very happy with my booster added to the factory drums. I may yet upgrade to discs but I just sunk a bunch of cash into the drums.

[markpar]

Hello everyone. I'm just going to jump in on your thread for a minute. I am also doing the Scarebird disk conversion at the moment and they sent me a link to an article on the classictrucks.com website. Just search 1967 D100 brakes. Its a five page article that has photos for every stage, including the machining. Very informative ie : new wheel studs used, etc. Marko

[soopernaut]

Hello everyone. I'm just going to jump in on your thread for a minute. I am also doing the Scarebird disk conversion at the moment and they sent me a link to an article on the classictrucks.com website. Just search 1967 D100 brakes. Its a five page article that has photos for every stage, including the machining. Very informative ie : new wheel studs used, etc. Marko

Yeah, that was Devilbrad's truck. He posted the article here before.