Sweptline.ORG

Okay hey guys long time no see, jus been getting the money again to overhaul my w200.

So to keep it short my truck gets real hot going around the block put a new thermostat in no leaks Same problem.

So yesterday got a new water pump put it in seemed okay for about 1 minute at bout 3500rpm revin it, it started to leak out somewhere near the intake/ head it's right above the water pump somewere couldn't pin point it a shot was dark out lasnight.

But do you think the new water pump somehow blew a intake or head gasket?

It's 1970 w200 318

66sportfury wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 24, 2021 8:51 am

But do you think the new water pump somehow blew a intake or head gasket?

I don't think so, myself.

John

What do you think it could be than? Would a short video help a diagnose.

How long did it sit? If a long time, with anti freeze, it has a nasty problem of turning into a gelatinous mass that completely blocks the cooling system.
I acquired a 69 D200 yrs ago, engine ran excellent, but would heat up/overheat quickly. Parted the truck out and when I disconnected the lower radiator hose a giant glob of clear gunk fell out, that was totally blocking the hose.

I'm guessing, but the water pump bypass hose?

timing chain cover between the block and cover, the covers are alum and sometimes corrode and leak

Well when I switched the water pump I removed the radiator and drained it completely didnt seem gross or sludge,

All take some pics of the water pump it's fairly clean and the all get some pics of were its leaking or around were it's leaking

https://ibb.co/7RdDXnh
https://ibb.co/4g9Jq9N
https://ibb.co/2MVmMXq

I've utilized my cooling system pressurizer to locate leaks. It is the type with the hand pump and the adapter that replaces the radiator cap. It works well for those small, hard to find, leaks.

I'll pump it up to about 4 or 5 psi and listen for the leak. If I can't hear it, I'll spray the suspect area down with a water/soap mix from a pump/sprayer bottle and look for the bubbles.

I see many parts stores are now loaning/renting tools. So perhaps you could source one there. Mine is a Snap-On, which means I'd pay too much for it. However, it has been handy. I've utilized the hand pump/gauge to check for leaks in outboard lower units and most recently the fuel tank in my sweptline, to name a few.

Dang I didn't even think bout doing that I actually have a snap on one as well. All have to run to my house when I can thanks for the great suggestion.

Hopefully tomorrow I can go out there sucks 75 miles away and 4 bucks a gallon but all let ya know for sure

66sportfury wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 26, 2021 11:15 pm

...and 4 bucks a gallon...

The price we pay for living in a state that is blue.

Agreed! But also the price we pay to drive the 55 year old trucks we love. Long love the sweptline!

Overheating - Is the spring still inside the lower radiator hose?

If not, it can collapse due to the suction from the water pump and choke off coolant flow.

Okay well long break but Messed with a bunch of crap.
Tested the old thermostat opened complely at bout 215 a Did the new one.
So I bought some k seal which stopped 95% of the leak :)

But it was supposedly still overheatin so go to put a aftermarket gauge in an the sender is like a 1\4 o the size a normal ones.. go to all the autostores I can find in a 30 mile radius nothing...

So ended up cutting radiator hose in half getting some metal pipe weld a nut and adaptor on and stick tha between the hoses and this gauge is saying it doesn't even go above 190.
Would that be believable driving hard for 10 or mins?

Also what kind of hp gain would I be looking at with 4brrl carb intake

Get a point and shoot laser temp reading device.

dodgeboykim makes a good recommendation. They are very handy, accurate and affordable.

The instrument voltage regulator, in the instrument cluster, could be defective. A high output voltage from it will make your fuel, oil pressure, and temp gauges read high.

Your sensor location, in the upper radiator hose, will not provide an accurate indication. For example, if the thermostat sticks closed, the engine will overheat and the temp gauge will not indicate such.

I doubt if you'll see much gain migrating to a 4-barrel. My truck came converted to a 4-barrel, much to my disappointment. I'd rather it had the stock Carter Ball & Ball 2-barrel. It idled poorly, had a rich smelling exhaust, and a nasty hesitation when coming off idle. It had a Carter AVS that was original equipment a '71 full size passenger car with a non-performance 440. I knew I was wasting my time and money fiddling with it, but I put a kit in it and found one of the air bleeds was plugged when doing so. I didn't gain much. It was just too much carburetor for the engine.

Going back to a 2-barrel would have been expensive by the time I rounded up all the components. So I replaced it with the smallest 4-barrel I could find, a 390 cfm, 4160, Holley 0-8007. That wasn't cheap, either. $600.00. It did make a world of difference. Idles smooth, no rich smell, no hesitation, improved throttle response, starts instantly & great cold start driveability. As is, out of the box.

I'll probably acquire an Air?Fuel meter and see if I can get it a bit better, but that's another $600. I doubt if I'll gain much in performance, maybe a bit better gas mileage (13 mpg now), but that increased mileage will not pay for the A/F meter.

As far as seat of the pants performance, I doubt if there is a perceivable difference from the 2-barrel.

Well I drove the damn thing 70 miles to my house with no plates tabs insurance doors don't shut an 55mph at 2700rpm lol

Ran good I think stalled out on a hill with a ton of car behind me but she didnt overheat!

I took a temp gauge to radaitor an hoses before I left seemed good so I went or it. Was quite the expierece. I appreciate all the advice my fellow Mopar people.

And as far a performace if I were to do carb intake and cam woul that b noticeable?