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I might have a cracked cylinder head on the left bank. Is there a way to tell if the engine is out of a moterhome by the casting numbers? The number on the block is 4006630-440-3. on the data pad it has 6T440 E. One of the heads is 2843906-2 the other is 2843906-5.

That block casting number is 1975-later, the last casting used ever. Maybe the best 440 block (thicker) according to 440source. Downside is that it has an externally balanced cast crank.

Heads are the reputable "906" castings. Large chamber 1968-70 used on HP 383 & 440's. These heads were the shiznit back in the day.

So older heads on later block means its not original.

Bucky

The heads are at the shop and in the hot tank now. I will know in a few days if they are cracked or not. The shop owner is going to order new rocker arms so well see how much this is going to cost. I just found a pair of exhaust manifolds so hopefully I can have this engine back together this month.

Does anyone know where I can get some .020 short pushrods for a 440?

You can order any length you want from places like Jeg's or Summit. I'm not sure that .020 would make that much of a difference, but I'm not an engine guru! Mike

I just got back from an overseas deployment and I thought everyone would like an up date on this project. I ended up taking the heads to a shop in Modesto, CA and they replaced all of the valve seats, installed new bronze valve guides, installed new valves, springs keepers, and did a 3 angle valve job. I cleaned up the block and installed the heads, with all of the valve seats replaced I no longer needed the longer push rods.

The exhaust manifolds were both bad, one was full of hair line cracks and the other one had an ear broken off on one end. I had a hard time finding replacements as no one I talked to had heard of the part number on them. I got in touch with Wicken racing and Dave found a set for me, he even tapped and plugged the emissions ports in them for no charge.

The truck had an old edelbrock "streetmaster 440" intake on it and there was a crack between the two ports for the EGR valve. I replaced the intake with an edelbrock "performer". The guy that I bought it from races BB dodge cars and told me the streetmaster intake might have been adding to the overheating problems the truck was having. So now I am at the point of reinstalling the carburetor and hooking up the radiator. The carb is a Thermo quad that has been sitting for almost 10 years total. I want to rebuild this carburetor before trying to start the engine for the first time. It was having a problem with hesitating a little before the head gasket issue came up. I have never rebuilt a 4 bbl before and I know this carb has a lot of adjustments to it. Anyone know of a good place to rebuild thermoquads?

I'm sure someone will chime in with a good suggestion for
rebuilding your carb. Thank you for your service to our country
and welcome home.
John

Yes!!! Welcome home. Mike

Take the number off the carb and buy a kit and a couple cans of carb cleaner. The carb # should be on the base of the carb on the front of the mounting tab the manifold stud runs through. Read the instructions. A couple things to look at, make SURE you replace the O-rings that seal the main wells without them it will run like crap. Turn the plastic main body over and you'll see 2 small glued on expensions. After all these years most if not all of them are broke loose or leaking. Pick up some Marine-Tex glue clean the old glue off them, roughen up the mating surfaces and reglue. Don't loosen up the spring loaded airdoor adjustment, if after your engine mods the engine bogs or sags as the secondaries come in at WOT then you can loosen or tighten up the spring tension. Don't rebend the air door adjustment tab on the drivers side over the metering rod or the airdoor. Thermoquads are very sensitive to the air door opening amount. (Case in point, I own my own dyno, I had my 528 hemi on it, I closed down the air doors on my 2x4 setup by only .050, it picked up 55hp)
Use the carb cleaner and compressed air to clean and blow out all passages.

If you can find an old edelbrock 'Street Dominator' intake manifold they are very good pieces with great street manners and make very good hp and torque numbers combined with a thermoquad. Dave

Thermoquads are very good carbs when properly set up. That aside if the throttle shaft is sloppy and loose in the bore where it passes through you will have to repair that or find a better base plate. Loose it will give you an unstable idle and vacuum leak if really bad.

Do you know where I can order a kit for the thermoquad? I will get the number off of the carb tomorrow.

Thanks guys, it feels great to be back home.

Napa, autovalue, o'reilys, carquest.....any of the auto parts stores should be able to help you.Dave