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Guys,
I have a 63 crew cab 3/4 ton powerwagon with a /6, np420, np210. It has been sitting for several years. The slant six runs, but in order to make this a driver for me, I need more power. The hope is that this is my truck for hunting, winter driving, and would be able to tow a trailer and car (nothing extreme, just a normal car and trailer) for short trips (less than 2-3 hours). I would love to put a cummins in, but I just don't have the time for all the fab and the money to get this done now. I also thought about a 5.9 magnum gas engine and a nv35 or 4500 or even an auto tran. Another option would be to just put a 318 or 318 wide block in it and move on. I just didn't know if these would have the power to make this a workable, driveable truck??

I would love to hear any suggestions anyone has as to what way to go. My goal would be the easiest/cheapest swap that would meet my basic needs. My wife is bugging me to either get it moving or get it gone. Thanks much.

Sir

As Always it is cheAper to repair than to replace.

1. Have any local Neighbor-hood Muffler Shop use a
two inch inside Diameter Pipe from the Exhaust Manifold
Flange to a two inch in-let Muffler. This is what was done with
Plymouth's Feather Duster and the like Dodge Dart's.

After this it was also what was done with MoPar's
"Super Six".

1a. Use what ever diameter the out-let is from the
Muller for the Tail Pipe Diameter. If you use the same
size diameter going out that you use going in you will
lose bottom end and mid range power.

////////////////////////////////////////////////////
The longer the Muffler the better your truck will sound
this October. This will not effect the Torque or HP.
///////////////////////////////////////////////////

2. Measure the Diameter of your Cooling Fan. Go to the
local pick & pull and look at any 1980'ish rear wheel drive
GM or MoPar that has A/C and a diameter that is smaller than
yours or the same diameter. They should have five or seven
Paddles. Either one is under $10.

2a. Purchase the short shaft Silicone Fan Drive for a Buick
Skylark with A/C and the V6 ( NAPA calls this 271-303 ).

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
MoPar Performance has written this is proven by the Dyno's
this is a 15 HP savings at 20 MPH and above.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

with the above modifacation's you have a Torque and HP very
close to the stock A-318 or LA-318 with out the Engine Purchase
Price, the Starter Motor Purchase Price, The Bell-Housing and
several other item's.

In 1963 when your Truck was new the average National Hwy
Posted Speeds was 55 MPH. You say you want to pull your trailer.
What is the 2011 Max Speed Limit for Illinous if a vehicle is
pulling a trailer ???



Rodger & Gabby
FltSgt@msn.com

ewtrone wrote:Guys,
I have a 63 crew cab 3/4 ton powerwagon with a /6, np420, np210. It has been sitting for several years. The slant six runs, but in order to make this a driver for me, I need more power. The hope is that this is my truck for hunting, winter driving, and would be able to tow a trailer and car (nothing extreme, just a normal car and trailer) for short trips (less than 2-3 hours). I would love to put a cummins in, but I just don't have the time for all the fab and the money to get this done now. I also thought about a 5.9 magnum gas engine and a nv35 or 4500 or even an auto tran. Another option would be to just put a 318 or 318 wide block in it and move on. I just didn't know if these would have the power to make this a workable, driveable truck??

I would love to hear any suggestions anyone has as to what way to go. My goal would be the easiest/cheapest swap that would meet my basic needs. My wife is bugging me to either get it moving or get it gone. Thanks much.

The quickest and least expensive route would probably be to find
an LA318 with the crank bored for the tranny output shaft. You'd
use the same bell housing but would have to find a hydraulic clutch
318 flywheel [A or LA]. Clutch parts can be had new from:
http://www.hrclutch.com
You'd need the correct engine mount brackets. Those square block
insulators "might" cross over from the Slant 6. You should probably
find a radiator for it as well. Aside from these things and the chunk
of engine harness wiring, you'd be good to go. If an A or LA 318
did the trick in these trucks when they were built, I don't see why
one wouldn't work for you now.
John

You can get more power out of the slanty but you still have a 225 cubic engine. To put it bluntly the slanty is not enough engine for modern expectations in a 4WD truck this size.

But a swap is going to be work.

I like a diesel for 4WD trucks but these diesel swaps get really expensive. I think Ma Mopar made a big mistake by not building their own V8 diesel. The Cummins is a fine engine but it is heavy as is the Detroit and the Cat. The small Nissan or Mits engines are not going to have enough power for you to be happy.

Slant Sixes do well when hopped up in light vehicles. Heavy trucks not so much.

How much do you like the truck?? That's the bottom line.

For a diesel swap, I always liked the Deutz (5-cyl air cooled diesel, IIRC) post: Re: thought i'd give ya'll a taste

But you said a reasonable swap so I guess that's out.

An air cooled engine means no heater or defroster, unless you want to rig a diesel burning heater. The oil does not provide good results in most cases.

Factory air cooled vehicles had heat exchangers from the exhaust, but they never worked very well.

South Wind or Eberspacher gas heaters (they could be set up for gas or diesel) used to be common, but no more. South Wind still makes them but only for aircraft, at aircraft prices. Webasto makes one but it needs a liquid loop.

Besides that, the Deutz is noisy and smelly. And expensive. Plus you have to figure out a vehicle installation-the Deutz dealers won't help you, you'll need to see how it's done in Europe and get the part numbers.

Hobcobble wrote:The quickest and least expensive route would probably be to find
an LA318 with the crank bored for the tranny output shaft. You'd
use the same bell housing but would have to find a hydraulic clutch
318 flywheel [A or LA]. Clutch parts can be had new from:
http://www.hrclutch.com
You'd need the correct engine mount brackets. Those square block
insulators "might" cross over from the Slant 6. You should probably
find a radiator for it as well. Aside from these things and the chunk
of engine harness wiring, you'd be good to go. If an A or LA 318
did the trick in these trucks when they were built, I don't see why
one wouldn't work for you now.
John

I couldn't agree with John any more. If you feel the small block still wouldn't be enough power, find a 383, 400 or 440.

If you are looking for a 383 I just pasted on one up in Michigan. I bought a truck from the guy and he was really honest about everything http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/2682998149.html

Cheapest and least headache route would be to keep the slant six and beef it up for more power.Two barrel or dual one barrel carburators etc.