Machine Work

[MountainMoparRobin]

anybody have their Big Block machined recently? Line honed, bored, and the usual work? Just pricing

[Hobcobble]

anybody have their Big Block machined recently? Line honed, bored, and the usual work? Just pricing

Yep.
My hometown pals had been on me for a few years
to give them the 440 out of my R/T so they could
"wake it up" for me. So far, the block has been
bored & valve job completed. The deck height
still needs to be set and new cam bearings need
to be pressed in along with whatever minor
details there are needing attention. I'll be into it to the
tune of $375-$425.... or thereabouts.

If the figure seems a bit high..... hey.... my
hometown pals have got to eat.

If the figure sounds a bit low..... its my hometown
pals looking after me.

I've told them to keep a list of all the parts being
used for the build and their specs. So far, I know
I've heard "Keith Black", "Lunati", "Holley", "Weind",
"B&M" and a few other names floating around their
shops. They've both been drag racing professionally
and doing the majority of their own engine and
drive line builds for a couple of decades or longer so
I'm leaving it to the experts. They've followed in the
footsteps of another successful local drag racer by
the name of Kent Ritter [a google search should yield
some information and pics...].
John

[Hobcobble]

In addition to my post above, we hope to split a
4 hour time slot with another engine for the
dyno. That'll probably cost about $200 for two
hours.
John

[MountainMoparRobin]

that sounds good! Even the build sounds familiar, I'm just comparing for an idea of what to expect. Thanks

[demulsion]

I'd think your hometown pals are looking after you.

It's not a BB, but I was in the $1k ballpark at the machine shop when I did my slant a year or so ago. Tanked, bored 0.030 over, block shaved 0.060, head shaved ? (to get 54cc chambers), new valves/springs/hardened seats installed, balanced, etc. I can dig up the receipt if you want, I think it has a price breakdown.

[quickd100]

You're not going to have much time on the dyno if you're thinking of splitting a 4 hour slot with your friend. You better figure on 1-1-1/2 hours setup and teardown time just getting it on and off the dyno. Dave

[MountainMoparRobin]

You're not going to have much time on the dyno if you're thinking of splitting a 4 hour slot with your friend. You better figure on 1-1-1/2 hours setup and teardown time just getting it on and off the dyno. Dave

ball park idea on what $ you had to spend on your Block? I'm doing a little pre-pricing to see if having it done, or just buying one with everything done already, the block that is, not the build.

[MountainMoparRobin]

I'd think your hometown pals are looking after you.

It's not a BB, but I was in the $1k ballpark at the machine shop when I did my slant a year or so ago. Tanked, bored 0.030 over, block shaved 0.060, head shaved ? (to get 54cc chambers), new valves/springs/hardened seats installed, balanced, etc. I can dig up the receipt if you want, I think it has a price breakdown.

did you have the block line honed?

[demulsion]

I just dug out the receipt. Line hone is a negative.

Again, this is for an inline six:
block prep: 95
bore block: 95
deck block .075: 125
resize rods: 85
hang pistons: 50
grind crank: 95
valve grind, guides, surface, machine for o/s valves: 375

Total labor $970

For what it's worth, I hope that helps.

[MountainMoparRobin]

Thanks, that is pretty close to what I expected

[elacruze]

I just pulled an old invoice from my 440. In 2001:

Crank Journals; $85.00
Rod bearings; $89.23
Main bearings; $45.24
Cam bearings; $30.00
block plugs; $8.00
Labor & supplies; $90.00

Total; $360.54, 10 years ago.

What is your goal for this motor? In another thread you ask about roller cams. To build a motor that can take advantage of a roller cam, you're talking about spending $5-$10k. Any less and you can make better use of a flat tappet cam.

[MountainMoparRobin]

My main thought was compairing the price to have the maching work done, ie. hot tank, line honed, bored, freezeplugs, decked, as opposed to just buying a block ready to build. The parts to put in it will cost about 5K, I've not used a machine shop in quite awhile, getting a good idea if its worth sending existing block in, or just buy one. The Rollers, well like to hear from owners that chose that route on how much improvement they feel over their previous hydraulic setup they had. All just prelimenary info on how far do I want to go, and still be streetable. Still tossing around the idea of roll bar, but saw a 60 Ford truck with Roll bar in the bed, it was able to pass Tech inspection at a track out east. A lot of info, phone calls, and talking has to be done so I can also have these parts on hand for others should they choose to do the same. It doesn't look as if the prices have gotten to bad, judging from what everyone has posted, so it just may be just as cost effective to pull what I've got when the parts are all in, instead of paying to buy the block, with all the machine work done, and pay for shipping.

[Hobcobble]

You're not going to have much time on the dyno if you're thinking of splitting a 4 hour slot with your friend. You better figure on 1-1-1/2 hours setup and teardown time just getting it on and off the dyno. Dave

The dyno session is set up by my friends.
I think they have a "cushion" built into
their time frame.
John

[quickd100]

You're not going to have much time on the dyno if you're thinking of splitting a 4 hour slot with your friend. You better figure on 1-1-1/2 hours setup and teardown time just getting it on and off the dyno. Dave

ball park idea on what $ you had to spend on your Block? I'm doing a little pre-pricing to see if having it done, or just buying one with everything done already, the block that is, not the build.

My block is a MP Siamesed bore Hemi block I bought it with a bore of 4.498, had it torque plate honed to 4.50. Without digging through my pile of reciepts, the block was around that 2400-2500 plus shipping, honing and fitting pistons was ~$200. I had around that 7-800 in the machine shop on the short block work including balancing which required 3-4 slugs of Mallory in the crank. The heads were pretty decent shape and had only $500 in machining on them, (doesn't include parts) spent another pile on correcting the rocker arms.
To be honest I never added it all up, I didn't want to know. A Hemi is a whole different animal and that animal has a real big hunger for pieces of paper with Ben Franklins picture on the front. I'm looking at replacing the stock cast iron heads this winter with a set of CNC ported aluminum units that flow around 420-440cfm on the intake. You can build a pretty stout SB Chevy for the price of the heads. Dave

[MountainMoparRobin]

You're not going to have much time on the dyno if you're thinking of splitting a 4 hour slot with your friend. You better figure on 1-1-1/2 hours setup and teardown time just getting it on and off the dyno. Dave

ball park idea on what $ you had to spend on your Block? I'm doing a little pre-pricing to see if having it done, or just buying one with everything done already, the block that is, not the build.

My block is a MP Siamesed bore Hemi block I bought it with a bore of 4.498, had it torque plate honed to 4.50. Without digging through my pile of reciepts, the block was around that 2400-2500 plus shipping, honing and fitting pistons was ~$200. I had around that 7-800 in the machine shop on the short block work including balancing which required 3-4 slugs of Mallory in the crank. The heads were pretty decent shape and had only $500 in machining on them, (doesn't include parts) spent another pile on correcting the rocker arms.
To be honest I never added it all up, I didn't want to know. A Hemi is a whole different animal and that animal has a real big hunger for pieces of paper with Ben Franklins picture on the front. I'm looking at replacing the stock cast iron heads this winter with a set of CNC ported aluminum units that flow around 420-440cfm on the intake. You can build a pretty stout SB Chevy for the price of the heads. Dave

Thanks I've been looking at all the alternatives for the build to ensure I take a good route, don't know that I would go as far as you have, but lookin to be at the high 11's low 12's and street driven. Whats your opinion on the extra money that has to be spent for the roller setups vs the return?

[JimsRatRod]

Hey Robin, I had to have some machining done on my 67 SB and Jasper Racing Engines were backed up so they recommended Ridge Reamers off Sheridan N of 76. They did an excellent job and it was reasonable. Check them out.

Jim

[quickd100]

Robin; If you're looking for high 11's low 12's you don't need a roller for your 440. If you take a look at the old MP recs for those times and even loosely follow them you should meet your goals. The cheapest and easiest performance mod is weight reduction, take everything off the truck you can get away with. Try and get it down below 3500 lbs. The second thing is chassis, get it to hook consistantly, clamp the front spring segments together or install a set of SS springs. If you use the original springs also use an adjustable pinion snubber, also get some slicks or very good street tires.
For the price of a roller cam you can get a fantanstic convertor and have money left in your pocket. The biggest performance gain I've was my first high stall convertor. A good 10" TA will stall around 3800-4000rpm. If you've never had one before you may want to put a set of depends on the first time you nail the throttle. Dave

[elacruze]

Agreed, 100%.

[MountainMoparRobin]

Hey Robin, I had to have some machining done on my 67 SB and Jasper Racing Engines were backed up so they recommended Ridge Reamers off Sheridan N of 76. They did an excellent job and it was reasonable. Check them out.

Jim

[MountainMoparRobin]

Robin; If you're looking for high 11's low 12's you don't need a roller for your 440. If you take a look at the old MP recs for those times and even loosely follow them you should meet your goals. The cheapest and easiest performance mod is weight reduction, take everything off the truck you can get away with. Try and get it down below 3500 lbs. The second thing is chassis, get it to hook consistantly, clamp the front spring segments together or install a set of SS springs. If you use the original springs also use an adjustable pinion snubber, also get some slicks or very good street tires.
For the price of a roller cam you can get a fantanstic convertor and have money left in your pocket. The biggest performance gain I've was my first high stall convertor. A good 10" TA will stall around 3800-4000rpm. If you've never had one before you may want to put a set of depends on the first time you nail the throttle. Dave

Yes, I realize that, but at the same time depending on the postioning of the Roll Cage I'm looking at going a little more as you can see from this picture my truck has been lightened up years ago, and will also be doing more

right now I'm comfortable with the ET would be around mid 13's, depending on the NHRA rules on the Roll bar I'm considering pushing towards the 10's