timing setting

[W300FLATBED]

I checked my timing the other day, and it seems to be out of time. The truck runs, but uses alot of fuel, and just not the power that I would expect. When I check the timing, the line is below the marker gauge. Is this way out, or somewhat normal.
Anyone want to offer some advise and a starting point?
Thanks

[JJ]

A little more information such as which motor you have would help but it does sound like your motor might be running a little bit retarted.

[wideblock]

6 to 8 degrees advanced is a good starting point. fine tune from there to what the engine prefers.

[tom-adc]

You are checking with the dist vacuum disconnected right?
I've tried mine set per the factory sticker on the firewall & truck was gutless so I run it a few degrees more advanced and the truck is much more fun to drive.

[dodgegrrrrrrl]

pull it forward 'til it "pings" under load, then back it off 'til it doesn't. Timing on most these vehicles was defined when we had 91 octane or higher LEADED pump gas as "regular". With this bilge water we have for fuel now days the specs become more or less meaningless.
By using this method I was able to run my '63 413 with 10:1 compression on unleaded regular. If I'd used factory specs I'd have had to use an additive full time on top of the 20¢ per-gallon higher "premium". If it isn't pinging you're not hurting the engine, unless your timing is so far retarded that you're just running unburned gas out the pipes and own the cylinder walls.

[JJ]

I hate to tell you dodgegrrrrrrl not all "pinging" (detonation) is autable. Wideblock pretty much hit it on the head 6-8 degree advanced is a good start. Set it with the distributor advance unplugged and make sure the advance is working when you plug it back in. A non working advance in it's self will cause poor mileage.

[wideblock]

see, i actually use dodgegirls theory as well. ill use a light to get it around 6-8. then ill play with it till it pings. at that point, ill back it off about 2 degrees and go with it. if no light is available, i go with what doesnt ping, and starts easy. if both of those factors are there, your out of the ping range even on non audible preignition.

[Davey]

Advance the timing until it pings slightly under load, then back it off one RCH (red chest hair). Davey

[Roger]

pull it forward 'til it "pings" under load, then back it off 'til it doesn't. Timing on most these vehicles was defined when we had 91 octane or higher LEADED pump gas as "regular". With this bilge water we have for fuel now days the specs become more or less meaningless.
By using this method I was able to run my '63 413 with 10:1 compression on unleaded regular. If I'd used factory specs I'd have had to use an additive full time on top of the 20¢ per-gallon higher "premium". If it isn't pinging you're not hurting the engine, unless your timing is so far retarded that you're just running unburned gas out the pipes and own the cylinder walls.


see, i actually use dodgegirls theory as well. ill use a light to get it around 6-8. then ill play with it till it pings. at that point, ill back it off about 2 degrees and go with it. if no light is available, i go with what doesnt ping, and starts easy. if both of those factors are there, your out of the ping range even on non audible preignition.

Advance the timing until it pings slightly under load, then back it off one RCH (red chest hair). Davey

Thats the way I've done it for years on several types of cars,

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:25 pm Post subject:

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I hate to tell you dodgegrrrrrrl not all "pinging" (detonation) is autable. Wideblock pretty much hit it on the head 6-8 degree advanced is a good start. Set it with the distributor advance unplugged and make sure the advance is working when you plug it back in. A non working advance in it's self will cause poor mileage.

In my experience the audible pinging is the stuff that causes the damage,
Roger