Radiators

[Hewy]

Good info on the distilled water, also never thought about draining the block.
Thanks

[MountainMoparRobin]

Good info, hope it helps some, and in no way am I condeming the copper/brass radiators, I'll still have them on other vehicles, and when the system is all in good shape they should run cool and do fine, however after 19 years copper/brass will have build up in them, and when it cost $250.00 to re-core them, then $70 more to get a smaller one that cools better was a deal for me, and it matches the chrome under the hood.

[Ziggy]

The only real differences between aluminum and copper/brass are price & weight. Air is the sticking point. Both metals transfer heat much faster than air can absorb it. Increased surface area from a larger size or better fin design increases how much air is contacted and is the best way to increase cooling capacity.

That said, hardness (scale)from tap water will insulate the metal of the radiator from the water flowing through it. When I bought a radiator a few years ago, they said using tap water to fill it would void the warranty. If you want a radiator to last use distilled water. How big of a deal this is depends on your local water and how much lime and minerals are in it. Citric acid will clean it out pretty good if you are lucky. Aluminum will have the same build up as brass if you fill it with the same water. Glad it fit nice, but aluminum doesn't have any magic properties and I'd hate to see your new radiator go the same way as the old one.

Ziggy

[MountainMoparRobin]

Ziggy, you brought back memories when I bout the origial 4 row radiator in 1990, they told me exactly what you said about the distilled water, and thanks for submitting the Citric acid for cleaning, I may have to use the old radiator for the 68.
The aluminum radiator is OUTSTANDING couldn't be happier, I expect to drive the 70 until after the September Cruise and then it will be taking its place in the garage for some serious updates, as long as the economy doesn't hit too hard this winter.

[Jeremiah]

MoPat and I spent the afternoon mocking up a 27" aluminum radiator for my '65 W100 today. I like aluminum because a) it is light weight and b) newer technology = better cooling for the given area that the radiator takes up. I also like electric fans because they a) do not suck up as much hp as a mechanical b) because I actually tune my motors to run right and do not want to be next to a fan checking the advance while the motor is at 3k RPM and lastly c) the electric fan only works when it needs to. I suppose if I was Amish I might find more virtue in a mechanical fan?

Unlike most trucks, I plan on spinning my 408 stroker past 6500 and do not want to lose a blade. While I am not you typical truck owner/user, my stuff get used pretty hard.

[MountainMoparRobin]

Good points, and yet more reasons why I'll be changing to the electric fan also, for like you I use mine, I keep hearing about most driving under 3000 rpm's, but what I built mine for is power when I need it, not just idling in the parking lot shootin the crap, but when I'm driving merging on the freeway, passing a car on 2 lane road, or when a mustang, rice burner, camaro, chevy truck, ford truck, or female's pull upbeside me and toy with me and hit passing gear, yes that is when you need the power and its not below 3000 rpm's I don't like being embarrassed.

[Ziggy]

I don't have a tach to check it, but as low as my D300 is geared keeping it under 3000 RPM would keep me off the freeway. She was winding pretty good doing 55 and in granny gear you could almost drop a brick on the accelerator and walk in front of it.

Ziggy

[MountainMoparRobin]

I'm glad you brought that up, I have 440/727 3:23 and at 70 mph thats 2500 rpm, 78 (roadspeed in some states) is 2800, the point is most of these trucks have 3:91, 4:10, & and few 3:55's