Dana 60 bearings

[ducman]

Boy, this brake inspection is now $300. in parts! New shoes, spring kits, wheel cyl. kits, seals and bearings. One of the cups/races is spinning freely in the inner hub-probably not a good thing. I havent pressed it out yet to see if new one will 'press' in. Question is, the bearings are bathed in the gear lube and not packed with grease right? Does anyone have procedure or torque spec' for the hub/drum bearing retainer nuts. Also, are the 8 axle retainer nuts 35 ft.# ? Lastly, does anyone have a doner or part # for brake proportioning valve for a converted front disc w/ power brake setup on a '66 W200 (I have very little pressure to calipers) or is an adj. valve the way to go?
THANKS ALL!

[wideblock]

ill share a little trick with you my mechanic did to my 66 d100. he called it peening the race. on the race that spins, press it out. take a small center punch, and at close to even increments around the inside of the hub, knock you a slight dimple where the race would press in. we did 6 in all, you may want more depending on how loose it is and the over all circumfrance of your race. this raises the area of metal around the dimple and will allow the new race to be pressed back in and not move. worked on mine for the 3 years and 35k miles i drove it, and was still holding strong when it was sold. might save you welding and remachineing the hub for the new bearing. mech says it will hold as long as the bearing never gets undo drag on it from wear or heat. so if you keep up your maintenance, it will never be a problem.

[ducman]

Thanks Trey, excellent idea in 're-sizing' the hub/race interface! Cool logo by the way on your log-in. Do you have any insight on the other Q. in my post??

[wideblock]

nope, sorry. so far i have done no work to my 3/4 ton, only my half ton. but this happened to be a question that would cross over. write fred direct mcappys@vtc.net hes got nothing but 3/4 ton and larger, he may have the specs you need.