Several 727 Auto Issues

[1964ShortyD100]

I have a few questions about my 727 auto transmission.

The first 2 are about possible missing components. Upon removal of my carpet, I discovered that the trans cover wasn't bolted to the floor and firewall, so I pulled it out to get a better look at things. Here is what I found.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47602890@N07/4379155385/
( FYI: This is facing the drivers side of the truck.)

I found a Black wire that is broken off after 2 inches, and a lever that isn't connected to anything. What should the wire connect to? And should there be anything connected to the lever?


Also, I seem to be leaking a little transmission fluid from the pan seal. Any tips?

One more thing, the fluid is way over-filled, could this be a sign that the previous owner was having problems with it? What are common problems associated with the 727? I have read in several threads that say it costs around $500 for a rebuild at the least, is this realistic?

I'm going to hope for the best, but prepare for the worst. Thanks in advance,

-Noah

[nfury8]

There are 2 levers there. The top one is the throttle pressure lever (kick down).
My guess is the truck isn't down shifting, and having problems.

It should attach to some linkage that goes up to the carb, and is manipulated
when the throttle is pushed.

The wire is the neutral safety switch. This is supposed to keep the truck from
starting if it isn't in Park or Neutral. The wire should probably go up to the
starter relay, but I am not as familiar with the 64's.

Here is a picture of my 70 W200.
Note that there is a cable coming off the throttle pressure lever. This is the newer style linkage
I pulled off a 94 Ram. Yours should have a rod that goes towards the front. Also this shows 3 pins
on the safety switch. This is because the 70 has reverse lights, and the switch doubles as the
reverse light switch on the later trucks with reverse light. Disregard the other electrical connection
near the bracket holding the cable. This is a newer transmission with overdrive.




$500 is probably a little on the high side of average for having a 727 properly and completely rebuilt.
My experience has been more like $350-400. That doesn't mean that $500 is a rip off, all depends on
how many pieces fall out when opened. Bands and clutches are fairly cheap, but if you need a pump,
drum, planetaries or shafts, those can add up quickly.

[Hobcobble]

Also, I seem to be leaking a little transmission fluid from the pan seal. Any tips?

One more thing, the fluid is way over-filled, could this be a sign that the previous owner was having problems with it? What are common problems associated with the 727? I have read in several threads that say it costs around $500 for a rebuild at the least, is this realistic?

I'm going to hope for the best, but prepare for the worst. Thanks in advance,

-Noah

I'd drop the pan and replace the fluid, filter and pan gasket. Look at the fluid you
take out of it. If its not a nice red color, it could indicate some wear issues. Also,
if you see dark "specks" in the fluid, this is your clutch packing, or worse yet, bits
of metal. You should be able to re-install that pan with a cork gasket without
using any gasket compound. By torquing the pan bolts to the proper spec, the fluid
shouldn't leak from the pan gasket. Three other areas that tranny fluid will leak from
are the O-ring seal on the filler tube, the shift selector rod seal [this is the rod that
your kick-down lever is attached to] and the torque converter/input shaft seal.
John

[1964ShortyD100]

Thanks for your help guys!

Three other areas that tranny fluid will leak from
are the O-ring seal on the filler tube, the shift selector rod seal [this is the rod that
your kick-down lever is attached to] and the torque converter/input shaft seal.

Thanks, I'll check those places as well. Are there any places where I can get a pre-cut gasket, or will I have to cut it myself? (I'm new to transmission stuff.)

The wire is the neutral safety switch. This is supposed to keep the truck from
starting if it isn't in Park or Neutral. The wire should probably go up to the
starter relay, but I am not as familiar with the 64's.

I have found an empty terminal on the starter relay, so I'd bet that you're right about that. I really appreciate your input, it probably wouldn't have started with the wire broken off like that.

$500 is probably a little on the high side of average for having a 727 properly and completely rebuilt.
My experience has been more like $350-400. That doesn't mean that $500 is a rip off, all depends on
how many pieces fall out when opened. Bands and clutches are fairly cheap, but if you need a pump,
drum, planetaries or shafts, those can add up quickly

This is actually a relief, it cost my dad something like $1500 to get the transmission rebuilt in his Dakota, but that is a much newer vehicle. I was expecting a 4 digit price tag, that's why I asked if $500 was realistic. I'm hyped now, if there's a problem, I can afford to fix it! But as I said, I'm hoping for the best.

I am feeling rather optimistic. I had Chinese food tonight, and my fortune cookie said "Your hard work will pay off within the month." While my brothers read "Now is a good time to finish up old tasks."
With less than a week left in this month, I am determined to see what happens.

Thanks again guys,

-Noah

[nfury8]

The newer autos can be MUCH more expensive to rebuild! $1500 is totally possible.

[712edf]

If you remove the 727 yourself you can save major coin.......Possibly have it rebuilt for under $200 if no "hard" parts need replacing. 727 are one of the cheaper trannys to have rebuilt.

Bucky

[1964ShortyD100]

If you remove the 727 yourself you can save major coin.......Possibly have it rebuilt for under $200 if no "hard" parts need replacing. 727 are one of the cheaper trannys to have rebuilt.

Thanks for the tip, Bucky! I will do this if I end up needing repair.
Any idea how much one of theses things weigh? It's huge!
What's the best way to drop one of these?

Thanks so much,

-Noah

p.s. Bucky, I noticed your signature. I sure didn't count on coming across any Latin geeks on this forum. That's pretty cool, Latin was my foreign language in high school, so I'm one too.

[712edf]

Seems like a 727 weighs in the 110lb range, can't remember if that's dry weight or with fluid & convertor. I'm assuming yours has the aluminum case. The old cast iron cases are much heavier.
I have only removed 727's from later trucks but I think its all the same. One school of thought is to remove engine & tranny together, but I like to remove the tranny alone, from the bottom. If your cab has the removeable transmission hump in the floorboard this helps greatly in accessing things like bellhousing bolts, linkages, cooling lines. A trick I learned.....to keep the convertor from sliding out of its position from within the bellhousing & possibly causing injury or damage is too clamp a c-clamp or vise-grips onto the lower lip of the bellhousing to "lock" the convertor in place when dropping the tranny. The vehicle will need to be elevated somewhat & a transmission jack is highly beneficial. Of course ALL under vehicle safety precautions apply.

The Latin is from "O Fortuna"......I actually speak more Italian than Latin (un poco, non molto bene), but being in Texas I hear more Spanish than anything!

Bucky

[1964ShortyD100]

Ok, thanks. 110 lbs doesn't sound too bad. And yes, I have the removable cover for the transmission (that's how I got the picture.)

A trick I learned.....to keep the convertor from sliding out of its position from within the bellhousing & possibly causing injury or damage is too clamp a c-clamp or vise-grips onto the lower lip of the bellhousing to "lock" the convertor in place when dropping the tranny. The vehicle will need to be elevated somewhat & a transmission jack is highly beneficial. Of course ALL under vehicle safety precautions apply.

Thanks for the tip, I will be as safe as possible with this thing if I end up dropping it. I am in negotiations with Scott Blaylock at the moment for a throttle pressure lever, that may be why it wouldn't down shifting right (just a shot in the dark, but a pretty good guess.) At any rate, I will still need it.

I'll keep you guys posted,
-Noah

p.s. I'm learning Italian as well as Spanish at the moment. I hope to travel to Italy and Spain next year, but by the look of things, this truck is draining my vacation fund... Hmmm, I must admit that blowing my savings on something I never intended them for has never felt so good!

[nfury8]

Yeah the aluminum 727s aren't that bad on weight.

Without the throttle pressure linkage connected downshifts will be
all screwed up and you risk serious damage to the transmission.

[1964ShortyD100]

Does anyone have diagrams of a throttle kickdown lever? Scott Blaylock has told me that I have an early 727 with a later version 318 and that it won't hook up right because of that (which is probably why it isn't there now.)

If I could see what it's supposed to be composed of, I could custom fab a new one.

Thanks,

-Noah

[Jeffc]

http://imageevent.com/jeffc/techstuff3; ... w3.panda_s

Hole bunch of stock leakage types listed above that I put togther....
as well as other info...

To find a rebuild price for $500 or less you will have to do the pull and install yourself,
no shop worth a crap will do a pull, install and rebuild for much under 1k because labor
alone 2 to 3 hours on the pull and install (most shop rates are 70 to 90 perhour)- plus the rebuild itself, rebuild kits go for $100 to $200 depending on were you buy and what grade of parts you want (mild to wild)..... then there is
$3 a quart fluid and you need at least 12 quarts.... other parts that may be needed.... all adds up.....
I have had a Lockar kick down (from summit racing) on my 68 for some years and it has worked well for me....

[Jeffc]

Yeah the aluminum 727s aren't that bad on weight.

Without the throttle pressure linkage connected downshifts will be
all screwed up and you risk serious damage to the transmission.

only thing to add ---- no risk of damage, you WILL damage the trans, how much
depends on how long you run it without the kickdown....