new motor

[greenmachine318]

so while im overseas ive been spending a lot of time reading searching and buying parts. heres my list for my LA 318 going in my 70 D100.

keith black flat tops at .040 over
zero deck the block
mill the heads
get 360 smog heads with 2.02 intake and stock size exhaust
some basic porting on the heads
231/237 at .525 from comp cams
edlebrock air gap performer intake manifold
hvh super sucker spacer
750 mighty deamon
new rod bolts full ballence rotating assembly

[Rodger]

Temple, Ariz Person

"Your Truck" will always be a 1970 Truck. Think of assembling a bullit proof truck engine. Unless you are planning on drag racing every week-end.

Get a set of 318 heads from just before the Magnum series. These 1987 and newer 318 heads will have a carb bolted to the top and the head casting number ends with 302. They flow better than what you have now and the heads will match your ports, while the 340/360 heads is not port size matching. Expect to pay $75 and more if you get them from a pick & pull type of place. More if you get them from other places.

Even NAPA will give you a Torque Type of cam that you need, or a cam that you are speaking of that needs RPM's to work properly .

Intake manifolds ... keep the complete 2 bbl assembly as you have it now, find an era 273 4 bbl manifold or a Offenhauser Dual Port.

Carbs ... keep the complete 2 bbl assembly as above or if you just need to spend money, get a carb that matches the package as no more than 600 CFM's.

Exhaust System ... Keep the exhaust manifolds that you have now and have the local neighbor hood muffer shop use the same size ( diam ) as the exhaust manifold out-let size.

Hmmmmn

Rodger & Gabby
COS

ps

Good Luck on your up-coming duties

[Hobcobble]

Sounds like a decent build up! Thank you for
serving our country
John

[greenmachine318]

basically what im going for here is a weekend warrior it going to left at my dads place back in tucson more so for him to enjoy. its a family icon my grandma bought it for him when i was a baby so they could take me places and get him to work and a few years ago he pased it down to me so its more like a father son project which is good its something we both need to do togeather.

the reason for the 360 heads is with a little work they can become a 60cc head at a fraction of the cost as well as having a similar port mapping of every other small block mopar . the only option i have for that is anlum edlebrock heads at 1200 a pair or finding original 340 which we all know is almost impossible to find 340 stuff. all that said 318 heads just dont have to magic even after being ported and seated with new bigger valves. being that this wont be a daily driver i think i can accomplish what i think is a fair pump gas and streetable 400 horse with the combo i choose. the reason i choose the cam is because while giving me a good rpm range it gives an awesome power band with a choppy idle but not entirely to rough. im also investing in a good set of TTI headers that work great from past experiences. all the meanwhile im still using the stock valve train a hydralic flat tappit system the self adjusting factor really helps plus the oiling system is far enough to keep the motor going strong plus the fact that im adding a slosh try to the bottom of the oil pan to keep all the oil right by the pump.

hey im still learning though im open to comments and suggestions.



thanks for the kind words hobcobble.

[Rodger]

Hola Jim From Tempe, Ariz

Think you for pointing out that you are "Jim" and I had added an "L" while typing Tempe with my thumbs.

The cost at the machine shop is the same to over-bore an LA 360 as it does the LA 318.

Any 360 can be found with the heads having the valve size you are seeking already on them. With the 42 cubes the stock 360 has over the 318, the truck will going down the road out front using a 2 bbl 360 vs a 750 CFM 4 bbl 318, 360 heads and the cam selected.

Think about balancing the LA 318 engine with the parts needed to perform the task and you will have more fun, at an much lower cost.

It is the power ( torque ) to the rear wheels that puts the truck out front, not the dreamed HP of the engine to be.

There are several people here who have a truck that others in their family before them have owned. An added wecome to this elete group of driver's.

Rodger & Gabby
COS

[birddog_mopar]

I want to give you a detailed story line of my 318 build based on the Car Craft 318 with magnum heads build I did, but I don't have time now. Let me tell you this the more duration @.050 off you put in there, the more modifications you need to the whole truck to make it work. If you are putting that much cam in the truck you better be ready to back it up. The engine will perform to what the camshaft tells it do. You will need compression for that cam to work, and a good set of heads, I would suggest either the 308 (360) heads or better would be magnum heads. You will need a shift kit in a torqueflite and a good 2500 minimum stall converter. If you put that cam in a 318 and don't have at least that much stall it will be total turd off the line. Also you will need gears to make it work, probably 4.10 or numerically higher to get the most out of it. I thought that those cam suggestions on Comps, or Cranes or whoever's website was not necessary, but it is to make that cam work. If you don't back the cam up it is not worth having. When I get some time I will tell you what I did on my build

[MountainMoparRobin]

Good info,
definetly be prepared to back up the cam, transmission will need to be tweeked along with gears mentioned already also, motor by itself won't be enough to allow your truck to run.
Roger sounds like he want to help Rule the Street with some of the rest of us
Thanks for your service

[Rodger]

Hola All

"Roger sounds like he want to help Rule the Street with some of the rest of us".

While he is tring to get the engine up to an RPM that lets the engine start to work with heads which have heads with ports that prevent the engine to perform at its best driving speeds and an over sized cam too, a like year slant six with the "Super Six" assembly will be showing what the back of their heads look like as you watch them pull away.

Spinning the tyres is showing that you have a traction problem; using a higher than normal stall convertor is showing the engine needs to "wind up" to get to a more favoriable operating RPM and waiting until you are over 40 MPH is not the best vehicle to "rule the street".

When that other vehicle is ten feet out in front of you and driving hard, it is very hard to catch up and stay in front of them. Bragging that you have a ______ cubed engine or ______ HP means very little if you break at launch, spit & spudder for a while or need 1300 hundred feet to catch up.

Hmmmmmn

Rodger & Gabby
COS

ps
"Roger sounds like he want to help Rule the Street with some of the rest of us"

[birddog_mopar]

Hey I am all for more cubic inches, but that is not necessary to go fast anymore. A lot of people build 350's instead of 454's beacause they go faster for less money. If he wants a 360 that great, if he wants a 318 that fine to. As for stall conveters, where do you come up with you can go faster without the RPM's. Anything fast requires more RPM's, Nascar stock cars and Top Fuel Dragsters don't spin 4500 RPM's, they actually spin more like 10,000. Anything with a lot of power will spin tires, whether it is a 440, 360, or 318. I hate to break it to you, but Pro Stock and Drag cars all have large cams and stall conveters and even gearing to make them go faster. A good 318 will eat a 360 alive if the WHOLE package is set up right.

[Rodger]

Hola Jim

It is a free after noon and in trying to help you, I am now confused.

I was just looking at www.alpar.com at their LA 318 engine text section. This is written there ... " Next find a set of late model 318 heads I believe the are 302 castings, circa 86-91 pre-magnum, they flow better than the early 360 heads and have swirl port heart shaped combustion chambers. " .

If you want the HP that you are thinking about, look also at the MoPar Performance # P4529790 Windage Tray ( P3690939 is the Mounting Package for the windage tray ). This came with all 340 cubed six pak engine's and any E58/EH1 optioned/equipt'd 360.

I just re-read your original part and see you have called it a "slosh tray" ( or are you meaning to say "an oil pan baffle tray" ).

To use your printed statment ... " get 360 smog heads with 2.02 intake and stock size exhaust ", Should be; " get the 360 heads made after 1988 which have the casting which ends with 308 ( they may have only have the 1.88" intakes and the 1.60 exh valves, but flow better than older 2.02" 340 heads of 1970. This is also true of the LA 318 "302" heads ).

This is why I say to follow the bullit proof "Betty Crocker" listings to get a motor that fires up every time the first time, idles all day and jumps to red line if you forget to take you boot off of the peddle. It should be able to crawl in the local parade or pull a trailer across the state line.

This may at first sound as if I am not trying to help you, please read twice if it does this.

Your truck came with the "Load-Flite" version of the A-727 Torque-Flight. This means you have the four gear plantary gear train instead of the normal car version three gear plantary gear train A-727 Torque-flight. The only automatic transmission cars with the four gear plantary unit is the 426 Hemi and the 440 six pak ( or any era Imperial ).

Rodger & Gabby
COS