1 Month/Tracks open etsweptster

[MountainMoparRobin]

Thnx!
Got a question, on the battery shut off, do you mean it has to be at the end of the bed?

[etsweptster]

I'm not sure exactly. I think as long as they can reach it without having to lean in you should be fine. As far back as your battery is, you may be able to have one mounted right on the battery! I saw one S10 pickup that had his battery right over the axle, and he had one of those push-pull type shutoffs with the long handle that extended to about a foot from where the tailgate would be if he had one. Mainly, they want to be able to kill the juice if you are upside down, so if you use common sense you will probably get by.

Another thing that I just thought of on your truck is your fuel cell. First off, a plactic cell has to have a ground wire that runs from the metal ring around the filler hole to the bed, or mounting strap...This is a ground, and a good idea anyway to prevent a spark when you are gasing up at the local gas-n-go. Second, any exposed plastic underneath has to be covered by a piece of tin or aluminum...not sure of the exact thickness, but it can be pretty thin. This also has to include the outlet fittings, and the connections to the fuel line. On my dart the only part that sticks through the floor is the sump, so I only had to rivet a piece of tin on that was about 10x16. This is to prevent something bouncing up of the track, and either piercing the cell, or cracking one of the fittings. Strangely, it is okay to have an exposed fuel pump, filter, and all the attaching fittings to them?!

Hope this helps! I'm going to be taking about 20 pounds off then nose, and another 10 or so off the front tires, so bigger wheelies should be in my future!

[MountainMoparRobin]

I'm not sure exactly. I think as long as they can reach it without having to lean in you should be fine. As far back as your battery is, you may be able to have one mounted right on the battery! I saw one S10 pickup that had his battery right over the axle, and he had one of those push-pull type shutoffs with the long handle that extended to about a foot from where the tailgate would be if he had one. Mainly, they want to be able to kill the juice if you are upside down, so if you use common sense you will probably get by.

Another thing that I just thought of on your truck is your fuel cell. First off, a plactic cell has to have a ground wire that runs from the metal ring around the filler hole to the bed, or mounting strap...This is a ground, and a good idea anyway to prevent a spark when you are gasing up at the local gas-n-go. Second, any exposed plastic underneath has to be covered by a piece of tin or aluminum...not sure of the exact thickness, but it can be pretty thin. This also has to include the outlet fittings, and the connections to the fuel line. On my dart the only part that sticks through the floor is the sump, so I only had to rivet a piece of tin on that was about 10x16. This is to prevent something bouncing up of the track, and either piercing the cell, or cracking one of the fittings. Strangely, it is okay to have an exposed fuel pump, filter, and all the attaching fittings to them?!

Hope this helps! I'm going to be taking about 20 pounds off then nose, and another 10 or so off the front tires, so bigger wheelies should be in my future!

I've had the ground since inception, it prevent static electricity, which killed a few people back in the late 90's early 2000's and its visible attached to the exact location you pointed out, the tank is polyeurthane and weighs ounces. I'll recheck NHRA site and try and find the rules booklet. The nuetral safety switch will be the big thing, I've never had one, but I need a different shifter anyway, for when racing with the adreline flowing, need something full proof so I don't over shoot the gear

[etsweptster]

The shifter brings up another rule I forgot...you must have a positive reverse lockout. In other words, it can't go straight from neutral to reverse without requiring a stop. Pretty much any after market shifter will have this, with the exception of the tall handled "truck" shifter...like the B&M, or the Hurst truck shifters. It will mention "positive reverse lockout" on the box. Once again, only if you are running an aftermarket shifter...my 10 second dart still has the factory column shifter, and it still passes tech. Of course, I'm not 100% sure that it's not supposed to have the positive lockout, but when they see the factory column shifter they never ask to see it work. As long as I push the away from me while I shift, it won't go into reverse anyway...you have to pull it towards you to do that. (The factory's version of reverse lockout safety)

As far as neutral safety goes, your 727 should have it built in. The back up light/neutral safety switch must already be grounded or it wouldn't start...or, you have a 4 speed starter relay which didn't have a neutral ground switch built in to it. I had to change the relay on my truck since it was orginally a 4 speed. I got one for a 72 318 dart, and ran the proper wire to it from the trans. (I noticed that the one on my dart was pretty much identical to the truck one, and it bolted right up, and all the other wires connected the same way) This way you won't need to have any wires running to your shifter.

[MountainMoparRobin]

The shifter brings up another rule I forgot...you must have a positive reverse lockout. In other words, it can't go straight from neutral to reverse without requiring a stop. Pretty much any after market shifter will have this, with the exception of the tall handled "truck" shifter...like the B&M, or the Hurst truck shifters. It will mention "positive reverse lockout" on the box. Once again, only if you are running an aftermarket shifter...my 10 second dart still has the factory column shifter, and it still passes tech. Of course, I'm not 100% sure that it's not supposed to have the positive lockout, but when they see the factory column shifter they never ask to see it work. As long as I push the away from me while I shift, it won't go into reverse anyway...you have to pull it towards you to do that. (The factory's version of reverse lockout safety)

As far as neutral safety goes, your 727 should have it built in. The back up light/neutral safety switch must already be grounded or it wouldn't start...or, you have a 4 speed starter relay which didn't have a neutral ground switch built in to it. I had to change the relay on my truck since it was orginally a 4 speed. I got one for a 72 318 dart, and ran the proper wire to it from the trans. (I noticed that the one on my dart was pretty much identical to the truck one, and it bolted right up, and all the other wires connected the same way) This way you won't need to have any wires running to your shifter.

Yeah the relay is from a 3 speed, but the shifter doesn't have the plug-in for nuetral safety, and before I get out their I will need to change that, now I need another tach, blew my old one

[MountainMoparRobin]

The shifter brings up another rule I forgot...you must have a positive reverse lockout. In other words, it can't go straight from neutral to reverse without requiring a stop. Pretty much any after market shifter will have this, with the exception of the tall handled "truck" shifter...like the B&M, or the Hurst truck shifters. It will mention "positive reverse lockout" on the box. Once again, only if you are running an aftermarket shifter...my 10 second dart still has the factory column shifter, and it still passes tech. Of course, I'm not 100% sure that it's not supposed to have the positive lockout, but when they see the factory column shifter they never ask to see it work. As long as I push the away from me while I shift, it won't go into reverse anyway...you have to pull it towards you to do that. (The factory's version of reverse lockout safety)

As far as neutral safety goes, your 727 should have it built in. The back up light/neutral safety switch must already be grounded or it wouldn't start...or, you have a 4 speed starter relay which didn't have a neutral ground switch built in to it. I had to change the relay on my truck since it was orginally a 4 speed. I got one for a 72 318 dart, and ran the proper wire to it from the trans. (I noticed that the one on my dart was pretty much identical to the truck one, and it bolted right up, and all the other wires connected the same way) This way you won't need to have any wires running to your shifter.

Yeah the relay is from a 3 speed, but the shifter doesn't have the plug-in for nuetral safety, and before I get out their I will need to change that, now I need another tach, blew my old one got another question for ya, how did you come to decide to go with the main spring and the support spring only for the front? I'm going to measure the thickness of the rear springs on one of the other trucks, and possibly make my spring pack for the front to drop it more and do the flip in the rear and add more leafs from another truck. Hope to have it done before too long, then take it out on a demanding curvy road to make sure it will take punishment of cornering

[etsweptster]

The SHIFTER is not where I attach the neutral saftey wire to the relay from. You run the wire from the ground on the automatic trans relay to the neutral safety switch in your TRANSMISSION. This is the middle of the three prongs that come out of your transmission. If you still have the one prong switch, you can replace that with a newer one also. I always use the trans-to-relay route, because I don't like running the wire inside the cab. You can run the wire along the speedo cable with a couple of zipties right up to the relay.

As far as my springs go, I started with the top three springs, and then I kept shortening the lowest one until I got the heighth I wanted. Right now that 3rd spring is only about 1 foot long. Towards the end it only took cutting a couple of inches off of that spring to drop the truck an inch! I just jacked the body up until the front tires hung off the ground, and then pounded a screw driver in between the springs to seperate the third one from the others, and then cut it down with my air-powered cut off wheel...only takes about 15 minutes from beginning to end.