Sweptline.ORG

I just replaced my arms and blades about a month ago. After spending some time with my local Carquest guys (old school type parts shop) it looked good, on paper, that the adaptor we all look for comes with the Anco arm 41-02. It does come with it. And for further info, the matching blade from Anco i...

Thanks for the info and pics. I do like that filler panel, but I think a bumper plays well into where I'm going visually. I wish those ford bumpers came raw steal so I can paint it, I will have to poke around a bit online, now that I know what to look for.

Thanks again.

I did manage to get both in without removing the glass. And yes, the second one is a bit tight.

I dont know for sure, but I would think that the window can not go any further down. And I also didn't want to get involved with removing them, I have enough to do.

My are in real bad shape, but am considering something custom being that little on this truck is original.

Any pics of what you've done different?

Got it. The drivers side took 1 - 1/8" shim and 3 - 1/16" shims and the forceable lift on bolt A mount.

This is the passenger side......

Single stage Acrylic enamel. Thinned per manufacturers instructions, 8-1-1.

haven't buffed yet, but it will be a mild buffing

Excellent tutorial, only thing I didn't try there was with the shims in place, sliding that lower mounting up on the bolt, I'll do that again tomorrow with the shims left in place.

Ill keep trying more tomorrow.

Thanks.

Yea did those too. Was a bit of a challenge as well. You think you have them all lined up and one pops out. Worst one was the clip all the way closest to the vent. I gave that one a bit of a helping hand by prying it just a bit more open, not much.

Yeah, I did the window channels as well. They were a little challenging getting them down into the lower end in the door, have your patience on high that day, you'll get them in. Its hard to describe how I did it, but I'll try. I had the window down and fed them down as far as I could, eventually th...

I just did these the other day, I got the ones from Steele. I simply removed mine by prying the old ones away from the post. The rivots pulled through the seal and I just took a pair of snips and cut one end off of the rivot and pulled it out through the window channel. As fair as installing them, t...

I am just finishing mine in Turf Green, '65 Sweptline SB. I'm really digging the color. I started with a gallon, but just went out and picked up another 1/2 to finish it up. But keep in mind that I'm not painting the inside of the bed, if I were, I would have bought a second gallon. I also put on at...

I tried as many as 3 body shims there and actually had no effect. You say stack, how many is the usual "stack"

First let me start off by saying I did a search for this problem and I couldn't find a post about the same problem. I had the truck completely apart for this project, so keep that in mind here. Also keep in mind I found a picture of the truck before dis-assembly and it was good. The rear of the hood...

mines a '65 and uses the ones with the set screw. The inside splines are moderate at best in mine and am looking to replace them.

I dont care about being accurate to my truck, just looking for proper fitment.

Thanks, Tom

Thanks guys. Got it in with the windshield also. Put the body steel in the outer groove leaving the extra groove on the interior. Seemed to fit good that way. First washing will check for leaks.

This rubber has 4. It has the inside perimeter groove for the glass, the locking bead groove and it has two grooves on the outside perimeter for the body steel. Maybe one is for a possible trim package on the interior????? We are thinking the body steel would go into the "outer" one and have the ext...

I got the rear window rubber and it has two grooves on the outside perimeter (the body side). Which groove get the body steel, the one closer to the outside of the rubber or the inside of the rubber?

Mine is a '65 with a small rear window.

Thanks,

Tom

I simply refuse to pay what the replacement lenses cost, especially since there is nothing original about my build. So I found these sealed lights at my local Carquest. (They sell them under their own product line with the same part number) http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x125/fusc69/20140217_172...

If you dont care about original, I just wired up one of these switches, has the resistor as part of the switch.

http://www.hotrodwires.com/catalogswitches.html

Scroll down to the "heater switch"