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I'm thinking I may have added closer to 3/4" of positive scrub to the truck between the wheels and the brakes. I found a pic of a stock drum and it sits below the lip on the spindle that locates it. The rotors sit at least 1/4" above that lip (will measure more exactly later) so the brakes probably ...

Wildergarten wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:53 am

I run wheels and tires almost exactly that size on a W200 with manual steering and there are no problems.

Are you also still running stock brakes? I'm going to do some measuring. I'm wondering if the scarebird install pushes the WMS out farther than I had originally thought.

These are 16x6 steel wheels with 3.50" backspacing and +1/2" offset. I thought they were very similar to stock wheels, but I couldn't find any specs. I'm going to try measuring an extra stock axle/brakes I have to see if the Scarebird conversion changed the WMS location much if at all. Only other th...

I tried jacking the wheels off the ground first and the issue went away, so definitely tire/wheel related. Then I used a level and tape to mark the tire with a vertical stripe when the wheels were straight and then cranked them hard right and it rotated probably 2" at the tire edge (~10°). With the ...

Sweptlines equipped with Power Assisted Steering from the factory had shims installed on the axle. You probably already know this but just to be clear: those shims were intended to increase steering effort. The reasons are: (1) for self-centering to work and (2) to increase the "feel" when steering...

This is (was) a factory p/s truck. When I got it the factory power assist was still in place, but was badly worn out and could not be repaired. Strangely, though, the truck did not have any axle shims in place and when I initially measured the caster after reassembling it as a manual-steering truck ...

Related question, does anyone know what the stock front axle width (WMC-to-WMC) would be for a stock '67 2800 lb axle with stock brakes? I'm wondering if the scarebird setup changes the wheel offset any significant amount. Also anyone know what the stock rim width and backspacing is for a '67 D200?

I don't have that issue with my CPP. I do have a Sid's and wide tires. Stock big block PS pump. I don't know what the shims are, they came with the kit. I really don't have any ideas What do you mean about being nervous? I can run 70+ without issue. Craig At higher speeds the steering is very light...

Wildergarten wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:56 pm

Does the truck have a hydro-boost for the brakes?

No, the brakes are vacuum assist. The power steering is a closed loop between just the pump and the box. Only thing connecting the steering and the brakes (as far as I can figure) is the tires...

I noticed something weird the other day about my '67. It's got a CPP box and a little extra caster (~4° if I'm measuring it correctly). I've not had an entirely positive experience with the CPP steering, but I've gotten it to where I'm ok. The truck drives well, and I definitely prefer having the po...

I've never seen a vacuum secondary Holley with dual metering blocks and four idle mix screws. Does the secondary block have a power valve too? I just don't see why they'd need an idle circuit in that side at all. I had a 650 square bore double pumper on a 318 that I had modified to take a vacuum se...

martincom wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:33 am

To test your PCV valve: Pinch off the vacuum hose from the PCV with needle nose pliers. The idle speed should drop 50 - 100 RPM with a properly functioning PCV valve.

With the aftermarket PCV I'm dropping almost 250 rpm's vs. a capped hose...

There's a tool for doing the pushrod adjustment: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/631315/10002/-1 We'll worth the money. You want about .020" clearance, done with the tool and a feeler gauge. Autozone claims to have Duralast rear brake drums available still. I think that's what I put on my truck but ...

Which one, the shortest? Will it effect steering effort? Whichever one you need to get your drag link close to level with the truck on the ground. Most likely the 6". It will actually make your steering effort slightly less (better leverage) but will increase your turning radius as the box will sto...

Wally, do you know what p/n that PCV is? Based on RockAuto I ordered a V180. Will be trying it out this weekend if I can get the Jegs-brand PCV apart and turned into just an elbow.

The popular option (if you can find one) is a W100 pitman arm. It's ~6" long vs. the stock 7.5" and works well for trucks with about a 2-3" drop. If you don't get a shorter pitman arm you'll get very bad bump-steer. The drag link needs to be close to level when the truck is on the ground. Modifying ...

I suspect my aftermarket PCV system is causing my cab tuning issues (too much idle bypass air). I want to return to a stock-ish system so I've ordered a new stock PCV but I don't remember how it was plumbed. Anyone got a pic handy, or can confirm that it was plumbed the same as most modern systems (...

I have not used one, but there is an adapter that is marketed to put a manual trans behind a SBM that was an automatic. It registers on the torque converter surface and drops down in size to a pilot bearing. The seller mentions shortening the input shaft but I would rather rough-bore the crank for c...

I believe all 4 hinges are assembled from the same two parts, just in a different orientation. You should be able to use a D/S hinge on the P/S by pressing out the pin and flipping the arm over and replacing the pin. I just rebuild my hinges and when reassembling them I could have made either a D/S ...

Here's the arm that came with my CPP kit. It is 7 1/2" long just like the original, and it mates up to the stock Dodge draglink without any washers or spacers or anything.