Sweptline.ORG

The actual lift of the truck isnt that important to me. I would be happy if the truck was just level. (the drivers side is 2" lower than the passenger side). This kit is over $100 cheaper than what springs and things quoted me for replacement front springs. That's why I'm looking at this route. Brad

Mine is on the drivers side frame rail just forward of the rear axle. Just a wire (16 ga I think) that screws into the frame on one end and into the bottom of one of the bed rails on the other. I didnt think that a ground from those two points would matter, but it does. There should also be one from...

I have an aluminum grill on my 68.

I had a similar problem. Ended up being the bed to frame ground. Cleaned it up and reattached and good to go.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one who carries a case of tranny fluid in the truck to keep up with the leaks!

You talking about the data plate inside the door jam? I inquired about this a while ago cause I accidentally stripped all the paint off mine. I did locate a new blank one on ebay a few years ago.

Looking to get a minor lift out of my truck, and this kit is the same price as new stock leaf springs anyway (fronts are shot). Only thing is, the kit states its for a W series and not D. Will it still work? Its the Skyjacker D200AK, 2-2.5" lift. Also, how bad will lifting the truck this much affect...

That is a good question. I tried car headers on my stock 68 and they didnt sweep down low enough to clear the tranny cross member. I can only imagine this being true with a front clip change. But I'm sure people who've actually done this will chime in.

Brad

The door lettering is BAD @$$!!!

JimE wrote:Try: http://www.benchworksteering.com
Jim

I second that Sent my box to benchworks and they did a fine job!

I welded a brass boss into my pan when I had it off to add a temp sensor. Nice to know how things are running in there.

Is it possible you have a vacuum leak?

Sounds like your carb is running "rich". One way to tell is to pull your spark plugs and check them out. If they are black, you are too rich. If they are white, too lean. If they are light brown, just right. I still have fumes from my exhaust, but I think I have leaks too.

I would stick with the 727. They are not expensive to have rebuilt ( by a shop) compared to other transmissions & if you remove it & re-install it yourself you could save some money. Some people rebuild their own but that requires a good clean shop with the proper tools & a good service manual. Buc...

Yup. Timing is spot on.

Dan, I dont know how far away from Bremerton (WA) you are, but I have a 69-71 hood at my shop there. And coincidentally I am in need of a 68 hood. I wont be back up that way till mid-late Sept, so let me know if you are interested.

Brad

one difference is the carb base gasket. the old gasket was oblong the new one fits the bottom of carb, probably why I had vac on idle before. So you're saying that the carb base gasket can cause vacuum at idle? I ask because I have a vacuum at all ports at idle. Well, at least the two possible ones...

Ok. That makes sense. I'll try that and see what happens.

Correction on my last statement. My vacuum advance line is connected to a straight line in the back of the carb. Are you saying im not supposed to have vacuum there at idle? Cause I do. I pulled off the line with the truck running in park and had a strong vacuum.

You know, that makes a lot of sense with the fuel. I just switched the carb over when I moved down here from WA. I'll take a look at the vacuum advance. But I hooked it up to the diaphram on the carb, same place the old one was. Thanks for the inputs guys. I'll be in touch when I get it figured out....