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You dont want to go much over .474 on lift unless you plan on installing new springs. The Mopar Performance .474 is a good cam but your best bet will be this kit http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2341&gid=297 Vacuum's not an issue unless you are running big lift solid lifter cams with modif...

which saddle? #2? Long term detonation will cause (usually) rod bearing failure before main bearing failure. A cracked saddle can be caused by many things. Casting flaw from the factory, excess heat due to overheating/lack of lubrication, overrevving, out of balance issue... If you want to play sher...

Hope you grabbed the torque converter for the 360???!!! 318 won't have the closed chamber heads. 20psi cold is bad! Drop the oil pan and remove the pickup tube and soak in parts cleaner overnight. Then work on removing the 1/2 cup of bits and pieces of old valve stem seals that are clogging the pick...

so if he's cutting out the middle man. What is he?

good point wideblock. it will burn oil like a banshee during initial break in with cast rings. DO NOT use any additives. Straight 30 wt mobil or chevron oil works perfectly. Additives are recommended for high lift cams with high seat pressure springs. Sounds like you probably should do your ring bre...

Moly or cast rings? the D should give you adequate load to break in a 318. Once your cam is broke in take it out at night and floor it to highway speeds (or whatever you can get away with) then completely decellerate and repeat about 4-6 times (drive it like you stole it). that should break in cast ...

kind of a late post but I have thermoquads on all my early trucks! They are designed to only draw the correct amount of fuel for the given situation regardless of engine size. Heck they run great on /6's also. They are actually fairly easy to rebuild also. Unfortunately the rebuild kits are getting ...

Sounds like Johns on the right track. I'm seconding the motion of your lower radiator hose collapsing and preventing flow.

I love 413's (well the crank anyways) The rest is worth about 300/ton. Go with the 440! The early motorhome 440's were all steel crank and the blocks and heads had extra water passages for better cooling! Yes some of the industrial 413's had gear drive timing sets but they also had a unique cam whic...

I think what quickD is trying to tell you is that for what you are trying to achieve (550ish hp big block) a solid lifter cam will be the most economical... the same build with a roller setup will be about $1000+ more BUT what the roller setup will give you for that $1000 is more longevity with the ...

go on ebay and get you a pertronix upgrade. I have this on both my 67 Stepside and my 78 powerwagon. backfiring in exhaust is from delayed ignition of unburned fuel. either running too rich. Your points gap is too close or both.

http://eastoregon.craigslist.org/cto/2059152634.html

Found this on CR. Ontario, OR. is at the Oregon/Idaho border. Arid climate where I like to search for cars/trucks. Seems like an awful steep price but I didn't find out any specifics. Hope this goes to a good home rather than the scrappers.

There's a guy around here that has a 354 in a D300 tow truck. Though it's been several years since I seen it I remember him saying it bolted right in and it did seem to fit fine.

A318 poly cranks are interchangable with LA motors so yes the stroker crank could be used in a poly motor but the trick is finding someone to build you a set of pistons (which will probably cost between $600-700). Bored .030 over it will yield about 390ci.

Need more info... Like what gear ratio you have. How are you using your truck? ARE you using stock components? What is your budget if not going for a stock rebuild?

As long as you torque the heads in at least 2 steps (I always do 3 steps) you don't need to retorque the heads. Only the intake and exhaust manifold bolts need retorqued after initial breakin and the motor cools completely down.

Is there a vender who sells new fuel sending units or at least the floats?

Wow sounds like you got your work cut out for you. A little late now but a 195 thermostat will read almost hot as those trucks came stock with 180's so all that work for nothing... Oh well. As for the strange "does it in "D" but not in "N" at a stop. You may have a bad torque converter. Finally for ...

Well glad to hear you got it figured out. So was your ground hooked to a positive wire? HMMM?

I used IEQUUS gauges for my powerwagon. I bought them from Schucks Auto Parts or whatever they call themselves now. I really like them. I built a gauge panel out of aluminum and used LED lights for the turn signals, high beam/parking brake/4wd indicator lights. I was having problems with wiring beca...