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alcan can make them to whatever specs you want for about the same as a set of used. and they come with new bushings

http://www.alcanspring.com/index.htm

check your local brake shops. alot of them can make the u bolts on site.

1970 w200. i need the seal that goes around the shaft between the booster and master cylinder. the seal is bad and sucking brake fluid out of the m/c. anyone have a source? autozone says they have the booster but its $135 and i wont even get a kiss afterwards

i have a complete lu 2 for parts. the case is broken, though. i can post pics if you're interested

autozone lists a booster

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 727_0_2877

yes, the hole in the rocker should be open. thats how the pushrod end gets oil.

17 ft lbs on the bolts.

here is a pic of how NOT to install the rockers.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=chr ... 6&first=71

your local paint shop should have wax and grease remover, made just for paint prep. you might try napa too.

find some front springs off a 70 D200. this will give you +/- 4" of lift in the front. then 4" blocks in the rear or new springs.

i may be wrong but i think there are brass/bronze bushings already in the hinges? i DO know that there are kits you can buy where you can drill out the hinges to accept bushings.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/DoorHingePins/ ... 072/263956

Jim100 wrote:And unlike a modern shroud these things do not appear to be made to protect hands and fingers do they?

ive only been hit by a fan blade once. thats all it took for me to learn.

I have a project I'd like to do, a 67 dodge 1/2 ton 2wd camper special (46000 original miles) (has 318 and 4 speed manual) that i'd like to put the cab on my 91 dodge 3/4 ton w/ cummins intercooled, w/ 5 speed manual jetrag.

why ruin a 46k mile truck?

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Change the fuel filter first.

+ 1 enough fuel at low speeds but not enough for high speeds. start with the simplest (cheapest) thing first.

i had that problem. iirc it was the ignition switch or the ballast resistor. you should have 12v at the coil while cranking and something like 5v at the coil while its running.

there is a formula, cid x max rpm / 2345 iirc. for example 440 x 3000 rpms = 1320000/ 2345 = 562 cfm. depends on how high you want to turn the engine, but id find a holley 600. they are just so simple to rebuild and tune. my

yes, please post the #s

ask him for the 1st few digits of the vin#. if it starts with a "D" it was a factory 2wd. if it starts with a "W" it is a factory 4wd. the vin will also be stamped into the frame behind the right front tire.

i appears your wiring is right, and assuming it starts in park or neutral only, either the switch is bad, or the gasket between the switch and trans isnt thick enough. i would try adding a thicker gasket. been there done that.

i have take the weights off of a torque converter and bolted them to the back of a flywheel before. it did fix the vibration problem.

i used a 5/8 hole saw over the stud, without the pilot bit and plenty of oil, on a drill press. old drum comes right off.