Sweptline.ORG

Thanks a bunch for all the input. As far as the connection to the door latch, I was tracking on the connection, however I didn't realize that the retaining clip slid back and forth to release the connecting rod. Thanks for the heads up, it'll make it a lot easier to remove the rod now. Second, I thi...

OK, you'd think this would seem simple but I must be missing something. I have my lock cylinders in the doors, but I must not be hooking up the rod to the door latch correctly; I can't get either side to work. Has anyone done their lock cylinders? Can someone please give me some instruction? My truc...

No sarcasm intended. I didn't think about the fact that I greased the bearings on the clutch pedal but probably forgot the brake pedal. Thank you for the help.

That's a great idea. Considering I just did a full restoration and have taken all of those pieces apart, might need a little more lube.

Well, this might be the problem then. The shaft running from the brake pedal to the master cylinder is solid; no nut, not adjustable. Is that correct for a 1968 D-100? I have 2 '68 D100's.... both have non-adjustable shafts with no provision at the top of the pedal for a return spring [part No. 223...

Well, this might be the problem then. The shaft running from the brake pedal to the master cylinder is solid; no nut, not adjustable. Is that correct for a 1968 D-100?

Here's a different question for everyone. Since I've put my truck back together, my brake pedal does not come all the way back up. It will easily come all the way up if I pull it with my hand or foot, but on its own the pedal only comes up to within about an inch of the brakelight switch. I know tha...

Brad,
Welcome to the site. I've just finished my 1968 D-100 in the last year; 100% restoration. If you need any help/advice, shoot me a PM.

Ed

O'Reilly auto parts also has new drag links. I replaced mine and it's an exact fit. Just go to their website and they'll square you away.

I just replaced all my lines with stainless. I have the same year truck so I can send you photos. I would say though, that you should wait a bit and buy the $400 bender. I tried using the cheaper ones and broke three in a row before I broke down and bought the good one. Send me a PM and I'll help yo...

Here's some more...

Here's a picture of my bed primered and ready for paint. I'll get some more up of the work I did soon.

I just finished restoring my bed last month. I can tell you that you cannot remove the bedcaps without removing the entire side of the bed. There's just no way around it without destroying more metal than you'd ever want to. My best suggestion to you is that you sell your bed to someone who needs it...

Those look great! I'd definately buy one. I'd even pay extra if they were available in a flat plat powder coat; I think that'd look great.

I've done a swap between a 64 and a 68. You'll have to change the door posts if you want to use the correct doors. It's not easy, but it can be done.

Also there is a bushing inside the shifter that has a tendancy to wear out. You can get a new one at Mitchell motor parts. I've torn mine apart before and put it back together so shoot me a message if you need help.

My 1968 D-100 is setup that way. I'm sure 67 was the same.

No, I haven't removed them yet. However, I think I'm going to have a problem regardless because I had to replace my cab (it was beyond repair) with a 1964 cab. I've done all the metal work and modifications to turn it into a 1968 cab. If that's the case, with the nut and washer being welding into pl...

You've got me on that one. My truck doesn't have anything like that.

Question, has anyone taken the seat belts out of their Sweptline and replaced them? I'm getting ready to do mine but was a little apprehensive because I'm not sure yet how to get the washer and nut onto the bolt. Obviously the bolt goes through the hole next to the bracket for seat, but the only way...