Sweptline.ORG

Since you're looking at at non-original tank, I'd look at a universal aftermarket tank:

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page ... cat133.htm

Regarding SMS: They do sell it separately but also quoted me for them to make the seat cover based on the material I select.

I have 2 or 3. PM me here.

Yes, I did several years ago. I like the look and it was hard to pass up the $100 price tag for a brand new (primered) bumper. That was through LMC.

Most reputable spring manufacturing companies have all of the specs for each model and year of car and truck.

I tried using a heat gun on mine and found the mat would always return to the shape it was prior to the heat bring applied.

CPP says their box requires a minimum of 800-1200 PSI for it to operate properly but they do not say what the max (not to exceed) pressure is. If you're using a wider tire (8” or bigger) they recommend a pump that is "high volume" because of the added drag on the steering unit.

Yes. This is what I mentioned earlier. If it were me I'd swap out the saginaw unit as several other members have had issues with those intermittently providing insufficient pressure and (at an idle) not having enough pressure to operate the CPP steering box. Use a GM Type II pump. Some come with pul...

I went to O'Reilly auto parts and they had an exact replacement switch in stock for my 65'. Going from memory, it looked more like your 1st picture.

I only have a more recent picture of the engine in the truck with an induction change. Keep in mind my truck is not restored in anyway but is in generally good cosmetic shape for its age. Most everything under the "skin" however is new or newly rebuilt.

Sounds like your pump may be on the edge of not having enough pressure. What pump are you using and how do you know you have 1400 psi? I adapted a GM Type II pump for my CPP set-up and used a 6" aftermarket pulley. I had too much pressure initially and had to change out the spring in the pump to low...

No the T-5 and TKO have a different bolt pattern and retainer O.D. I went with a cast aluminum bell housing from American Powertrain which is a very nice casting that mimics all of the OEM casting with the exception of the transmission bolt pattern and the distance from the flywheel to the transmiss...

I used Solidworks but this could be done in several programs. Given the angle between the poly head exhaust manifold surface and that of the header flange the transition is a little "different". I made a cut from each side of the adapter using their respective port shapes and sizes and was then able...

Sorry guys. I don't get to the site except for the (very) early morning hours... - The adapters are completely CNC milled with the exception of tapping the threaded holes. So the transition between the poly and Ford port shapes was simple to execute. - The wood platform is sitting on a steel frame w...

The adapters I designed and built 5 years ago for my 302-251 Ford full-length Headers. These are (ironically) 1966 Ford Pickup headers.

Thanks Craig. I also have a 3" additional drop to my axle. The rear sump wouldn't work given the sump's location relative to the axle and, the sump is deeper than the center sump pan I have now. The original question on horizontal distance is for a point of reference but it does matter. If for examp...

Never mind. I'll figure it out on my own.

D100 primarily. I assumed all of the 2WD trucks would have a similar engine position relative to the axle but apparently that's not the case? Yes, just trying to understand how much clearance there is with the factory set up using that pan. I'd like to switch to the correct pan (mine has a passenger...

I've searched the site as well as the web and find very, very few pictures of the front sump pans used on Sweptlines with 318 Poly or A series engines. Even more rare are pictures showing the pan from the underside of the trucks. What I'd like to clarify is the horizontal distance from the rear edge...