Clutch adjustment on a 67 d-100 4 speed w/ granny gear?

[Soliddrummer]

My truck is a 67 d-100 with the 4 speed manual (granny gear) When I got the truck (2000 miles and over two years ago) it "suposedly" had a new clutch in it, it seemed it at the time as it was tight and responsive, well, here I am 2000 miles later and the truck barely moves, the clutch just slips like crazy. My dad tells me there is an adjustment you can make to the clutch that will take up some of the slack and give me some control back. Is there such a thing, or is there anything I can do short of putting in a new clutch?

Thanks in advance.

Brandon

[PwrWgnWalt]

Try this...

To adjust the clutch:
FIRST - make sure the hydraulic clutch master cylinder is full.
SECOND - have someone press the clutch pedal while you watch the little clutch slave cylinder move the actuating rod (it's on the passenger side, at lower rear side of engine, on the bellhousing).
IF - it moves well, proceed. If not, fix this first by bleeding the system, etc.

Now, how to adjust the clutch actuating rod.
You now know where it is, so get under there with a few open ended wrenches... 1/2 and 9/16, at least (my guess).

Locate and study the rod, it's attachement to the clutch fork, and how it goes into the slave cylinder.
Make sure this is all sound.
You should see a nut on the threaded portion of the rod, toward the slave cylinder.
Turn this nut to adjust clutch (there is a metal sleeve the rod fits into that rests on the slave cylinder piston, turning this nut increases/decreases the free play).
You effectively want to make the rod longer...
I think by turning the nut clockwise, as looking toward the front of the truck, you will "tighten" the system and increase your pedal response.

Don't get too carried away, though.

Test and readjust as necessary.

If that didn't fix it, there is another issue at play. Maybe broken pressure plate levers, etc.

The BOOK says:
There should be just a bit (.010") of clutch pedal free play inside the cab.
Actuating rod (at clutch fork) should also have about the same (.010").
Should be at least 1" of clutch pedal reserve after clutch is fully disengaged.

Hope this helps you find the solution!

PwrWgnWalt

[wideblock]

first thing you need to do is make sure the clutch id releasing all the way. on a hydro clutch, if the new one was put in, and not adjustright in the first place, then iot will be real tight untill the disc wears a bit, then its gets to slippin cause its never engages all the way. with the clutch at rest, you should be able to wiggle the rod that goes to the clutch fork. sound to me like yours is too tight and not letting the pressure plate come all the way to engage. a hydrolic clutch is self adjusting if indeed it was adjusted right in the first place. and the adjustment mentioned below works only if its not disengaging all the way. a slipping clutch plate would be different adjustments or replacement. you should have about a 1/2 inch minimum at the clutch pedal of free play. if you dont, adjust it where you do. if you got freeplay, or an excess of free play, then your disc is shot. if they replaced the clutch disk, and didnt surface the fly wheel, it will make it wear out fast.

[PwrWgnWalt]

Try this...

...Turn this nut to adjust clutch (there is a metal sleeve the rod fits into that rests on the slave cylinder piston, turning this nut increases/decreases the free play).
You effectively want to make the rod longer...
I think by turning the nut clockwise, as looking toward the front of the truck, you will "tighten" the system and increase your pedal response...

DUH! Right you are, Trey. As I was visualizing my past experience, I failed to consider his needs to be made SHORTER to increase the contact.

Sorry for the mis-information! But the rest of it holds true...

PwrWgnWalt