Gas gauge wiring for 1967 Dodge D100

[PIRATEUSAF]

Greetings
I’ve managed to smoke three gas gauges.
Following shop manual wiring diagram.
Understood there is a voltage limiter in the gas gauge.
Made sure the dash gauge housing was grounded each time.
At a stand still.
Any advice/insight would be appreciated.
Thanks
PIRATEUSAF

[712edf]

Exactly how are you smoking these gauges? Do they peg out FULL when you hook everything up?

If so, it is likely an issue with the sending unit.

Bucky

[Txas2step]

Can you post a photo of the back of the gauge set? I recently restored a set of '67 gauges and added an external voltage limiter. PM me and I can send you photo's of what I did and an explanation. Proper grounding is a key factor to protecting the gauges ( fuel and temp.).

[PIRATEUSAF]

The confusing part…
The gas gauge has three poles.
The installation site in the cluster housing unit for the gas gauge has three holes specifically for the gas gauge to fit into.
There is no gasket between the gas gauge and the internal metal mounting surface.
Installing the gas gauge this way grounds out the gauge.
Once the gauges “three poles” are inserted into the metal housing unit……then you place a gasket over the “3 poles” and add lock washers and nuts to secure the gauge in place.
Would like to discuss this with anyone who has the time.
Thanks
Greg

[dodgeboykim]

The confusing part…
The gas gauge has three poles.
The installation site in the cluster housing unit for the gas gauge has three holes specifically for the gas gauge to fit into.
There is no gasket between the gas gauge and the internal metal mounting surface.
Installing the gas gauge this way grounds out the gauge.
Once the gauges “three poles” are inserted into the metal housing unit……then you place a gasket over the “3 poles” and add lock washers and nuts to secure the gauge in place.
Would like to discuss this with anyone who has the time.
Thanks
Greg

Pictures of how you have installed gauge.

[Conductorblg]

With the gauge mounted in the housing, the post to the outside accepts the terminal of the sending unit wire. The center one is where you feed power regulated down to 5 volts from an external power supply. I used a small cheap integrated circuit mounted to a small heat sink that was in turn mounted to the back of the instrument housing. Heat sink paste was used to insure any heat generated by the IC would dissipate into the heat sink. This center post is still used to connect the blue wire that runs over to power the temp gauge. The inboard post next to the ammeter was originally used to supply full voltage to the original voltage regulator contained inside the fuel gauge. Reconnecting the 12 volt feed wire to this post is likely the cause of your blown gauges. This post should also have had the end of a small buss bar mounted on the back of the ammeter connected to it and could also have had a U shaped brass connector on it. I simply bent the end of the buss bar attached to the post up at a 90 degree angle so it wouldn't touch anything and took the original feed wire connector coming from the ignition switch and mounted it on the buss bar directly, then used the buss bar as a switched 12 volt supply source.

This forum won't accept the file sizes of my iPhone pics without resizing. PM me your email address and I'll try to send them directly to you.

[martincom]

I believe PIRATEUSAF resolved his issue. He had multiple threads running on the same topic.