Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Wiring, lights, heater controls, anything electrical..
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irontwist
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Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by irontwist »

Good Morning America! When I replaced the clutch on the PW I knocked the blower switch causing the spring with ceramic resistor in the middle and the 2x) round ceramic resistors that I think go over this spring if that is correct? Could someone take a picture of the underside of the blower switch so I can see how to reinstall the parts that came out. I drove it 900 mile this past week with no heater, brr. I looked at threads for blower switch pictures like mine to no avail. Thanks in advance the help.

64Powerwagon
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Re: Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by 64Powerwagon »

I had a similar problem with mine. I was hoping someone could post a pic of a good 2 speed Blower switch. I found a small cylindlical ceramic insulator rolling around on the floor. Did you get yours fixed? Does anyone know how many amps this resistor draws on Low speed? It sure gets hot.

irontwist
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Re: Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by irontwist »

Thank you for your response. I did put it back together, in the morning I will take a picture of the underside of the switch so you can see how the parts are installed. I will also put a amp meter on the circuit that I reinstalled for the amp draw from the blower on low and high setting with the truck running.

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Re: Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Resistors don't draw amps. A resistor resists electron flo thru a wire the same as a kink resists liquid flo thru a hose. The resistor causes a voltage (electrical pressure) drop between the 2 ends. That voltage drop creates heat (watts) which must be dissipated to the air around it. The total amps are determined by the total resistance of the circuit and the applied voltage. Measuring the amperage in your situation will give you no useful information. Don't waste your time. Those wire wound ceramic resistors on the blower switch are designed to get hotter than hell and will instantly toast (3rd degree) your skin. Its normal. (like the burners on an electric stove, which are just hot resistors, and they'll cook u good!)

irontwist
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Re: Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by irontwist »

Thanks for that info, what you stated makes absolute sense. I had some classes on electrical circuits years ago and forgot that. Well I did take a picture so I’ll post it. Have a good day.
Blower switch
Blower switch
414F4D5D-AB45-4170-B6E6-CC2777312095.jpeg (28.23 KiB) Viewed 675 times

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swptln
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Re: Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by swptln »

There was actually a Factory Service bulletin issued in January 1967 for those switches with the resistor. It was to install an asbestos cloth shield between the resistor and the switch, to prevent it from cooking the switch.
The best thing you could do is find a 68 Model 50 heater, install the resistor block on the heater box and install the 68 two speed switch. Would eliminate the toaster switch under your dash.
Mark D.

61-71 Dodge Truck Association
http://www.sweptlinesunlimited.com


1968 W200 Sweptline
1969 D100 Utiline
1993 D250 Club Cab

irontwist
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Re: Blower Switch 1966 W-200

Post by irontwist »

Thank you for the information on that factory blower switch fix. Even with my trucks bad weather stripping the heater puts out good heat. My Power Wagon keeps getting better as long as I keep working on it. Next project is replacing rear main seal, transfer case seals. It sat outside for 20 yrs. or so, but has low miles. Used to haul firewood and farm work.

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