Early Headlight Switch Conversion

[12Valve]

Hello,

I was wonder if you guys would be able to help me out. I have what appears to be an early model 1963 D100, so I have an early model headlight switch. I had ordered in a new headlight switch from Napa, which when it got in I noticed the switch I got did not look anything remotely like the switch that came out of the truck.

I was wondering if it would be possible to rewire the factory connectors on my D100 so that I would be able to use a later model switch. I would be able to go to the junk yard and remove a later model knob, and nut to mount the switch to the dash, so that it could function in the truck.

Thanks for the input

[powerwagon54]

why not just get the proper switch and not deal with the hassle.

[franktiregod]

I think you would be asking for a lot of hassle. I would try to locate the correct switch and make it easy,

Best of luck!

[12Valve]

I took apart the new switch and old one. I had to replace the dimmer ceramic, the wire inside the old one had broken apart, causing the wire to contact the housing.

This I was lead to believe, caused my Amp gauge to have huge fluctuations varying from -25, to positive 25.

I was wrong...

After wiring the switch in, I checked the lights to ensure their function. When I was adjusting the the dimmer function the Amp gauge started to fluctuate again. I checked the running light position, the front running lights were pulsating. When putting the switch into the full out position, so the head lights would come on, the same thing was happening with the Amp gauge, however the headlights were not pulsating. I checked the rear lights, and the drivers side tail light was smoking from the seal.

I disconnected the battery, and pulled the light.

The socket that the bulb goes into was melted, exposing the two wires causing them to arch and make contact. Melting the rubber connector, destroying the two wires, and melting the lower part of the bulb.

Has anyone ever seen this happen before?

I had attempted to source the correct switch, however the only one I was able to find was too over priced for what it was. It cost $200.00.

[12Valve]

Hello, All

Tonight I had replaced the rubber connector that goes to the drivers side rear taillight. When I stripping the wire down so that I could solder the wires together with heat shrink, I saw that one of the wires had blue corrosion on the wires. I assume that there was a break causing the two wires to contact, get hot, and metal the rubber insulation.

As of right now everything works, and everything is fixed