Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Wiring, lights, heater controls, anything electrical..
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maxmac
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Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by maxmac »

Upgrading to EI. Got new distributor in with the EI module and attached all wires per the instructions. Checked and double checked the wires. Truck turns but wont fire. Instructions even state to regap plugs to .050. Did that and still nothing. No matter how I adjust the timing, it simply won't fire. Comes close, but no dice...

I'm using an '80's vintage Distributor, a GM HEI Module, and a canister style coil with the ballast resistor intact. If I put the old part back in. it fires right up. Ideas?

Also, what is this small part next to the coil? I can't find any mention of it in the Service Manual or anywhere.

Truck is a '65 Town Wagon with a Poly.
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712edf
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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by 712edf »

The part in the red circle looks to be a capacitor/condenser thingy that was used I believe to help lessen the engine static coming through on the AM radio, but I may be wrong.

I though the 80's GM HEI had the module inside the distributor & didn't use a ballast resistor? Or am I mistaken?

Bucky
1966 W500
1975 W600
1978 W200 club cab

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maxmac
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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by maxmac »

The pic is of the old unit. I'm using an '80's Mopar electronic distributor with an external GM EI module mounted to it. According to what I've researched I need to retain the ballast resistor if I'm still using a canister style coil as this set up will burn up the coil without the ballast resistor intact.

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maxmac
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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by maxmac »

Also, there are 2 wires on the distributor: an orange/black, and a blue/black. The orange plugs into the "W" terminal on the EI module, and the blue plugs into the"G" terminal. On the other side of the module I wired the "B" terminal to the positive side of the coil, and the "C" terminal to the negative side of the coil. According to the directions, that should be OT, other than fine tuning the idle. I can't even get it to start to do the fine tuning...

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6969
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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by 6969 »

Did you measure Coil + while starting? Maybe some wiring got "wrong" in terms of 12V to the coil while engaging the starter.
Or, in other words - did you re-wire the wires from bulkhead to coil & ballast resistor (only these couple of wires) different than before?

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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by Johninky »

Ballast resistor are all not the same, different ohms or something like that If the system requires one, and I for some reason think it does not, find out what the ohms valve for your resistor is and compare it to the valve for the HEI. The HEI module takes 12 volts if I correctly recall. You could as a test bypass the current resistor and see if the engine will fire.


http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203358

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maxmac
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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by maxmac »

6969 wrote:Did you measure Coil + while starting? Maybe some wiring got "wrong" in terms of 12V to the coil while engaging the starter.
Or, in other words - did you re-wire the wires from bulkhead to coil & ballast resistor (only these couple of wires) different than before?
The only wires that are new are for the new parts I'm adding. I didn't rewire anything from the bulkhead to the ballast, etc. I've narrowed the issue down to the power from the ballast & coil not being sufficient enough. I may just add the e-core coil and do this the right way... Was trying to save a few bucks. Rethink, reinstall, & forget!

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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Did u remove the condensor (next to the coil) from the circuit?

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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by maxmac »

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Did u remove the condensor (next to the coil) from the circuit?
I tried with and without the condenser and got the same result - no start.

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Re: Electronic Ignition conversion issues

Post by marklein »

Try starting it by bypssing the ballast. You can run that coil on 12v for a short amount of time. If it starts, buy a coil capable of running on 12v continuous. Also, they run much better with a coil that runs 12v all the time.

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