windows

[heviarti]

so, i was headed for the portapotty at work, slinging mud, and my door wouldn't latch. i slammed it hard, and my window went to pieces. anyone know how the window comes out of these? the hole in the door is just not big enough, nor does the track ever seem to get to the position where you can pull the window carrier off. I have a parts truck, so another window isn't a prob.

I also want to replace the deal the window crank hooks on the one in my truck is really sloppy.

[PwrWgnWalt]

Arti;

Wish I had better news for you, but here's how I've had to do it. And, if you want to replace that regulator (window crank attaches to it's stud), NOW is the time!
Also, be aware that somewhere along the span of time from '65 to '69 the look of the glass lower channel (the metal part) changed a bit (earlier has a round metal 'prong' attached) - I've never interchanged them, and parts books make no distinction... FYI.

Here's what the Book sayeth...

1. Remove door handles
2. Remove center trim panel and lower trim panel (hinge access hole). Upper half of door does not have to be removed.
3. With door glass in down position, remove belt line seals.
4. Remove vent wing assembly.
5. Raise door glass until regulator connectors are visible. (Walt: the part that the bottom of the glass attaches to)
6. Slide door glass assembly forward and remove rear regulator connector from guide.
7. Lower regulator and tilt glass upward to remove front regulator connector.
8. Tilt glass rearward and remove from door.

To Install:
- Make sure regulator sector gear and slots in glass lower channel are lubricated with lubriplate. -

1. Slide door glass assembly into opening in door.
2. Install front regulator arm connector in glass channel guide.
3. Raise door glass with the regulator, until regulator rear arm glass connector is visible.
4. Slide glass assembly to rear and position connector into glass lower guide.
5. Install vent wing assembly and test operation of door glass.
6. With door glass in down position, install belt line seals.
7. Install lower and center trim panels.
8. Install door handles.

Have fun!

PwrWgnWalt ]

[Russ]

I don't envy you for having to do it. It's not a fun job, but if you do need to replace the regulator now would be the time to do it. I would only add one thing to Walt's instructions. To remove the vent window, there's a hidden screw in the upper front part of the vent window frame. It's covered by the rubber. Find it and remove it and also the one in the center of the bottom of the vent frame. Then unbolt the bottom and it will come out.
You'll need a new set of beltline seals. Even if your old ones are still there you'll ruin them when removing them. Then you might as well replace the channel in the division bar and the upper frame while you have it all out, since worn out channel is probably what let the window break in the first place. Also to get the door latch out of the door you must remove the upper frame. If your latch is bad this would be a good time to replace that too.
One thing leads to another when you start getting into Sweptline doors, but if you get everything ahead of time it won't take too long.

[cowboy]

Both Walt & Russ said it right , it's not fun but thats how it's done , & about a 6 pack toboot

[Jeffc]

The above is a pretty good disciption of how to do the job, but with a few tips missing.

1) removing the wing assambly: you will find that can be a chore in its self. There a at least 2 screws that need to be removed (4 on some trucks) to do this. One you will find hidden in the rubber going down into the door between the wing glass post and the chanel. The other is found in the upper corner of the rubber. With luck the lower screw will come out without a problem, but often is will be rusted in place have have to be drilled out.

2) after being though these doors many times I find that removing the top of the door makes it easy to do everything. I leave the upper corner screw in place (this one goes into a clip that often brakes when removed anyway), pull the upper door with the wing still attached. This means you only have to mess with the one screw that in hidden on the door top.
4 bolts for the door top, 1 bolt at the wing bottem
and the hole thing slides out with the window halfway down.

[heviarti]

crap.

this is going to be more of a pain considering i have no glass on the window carrier right now. Also, what holds the channel in at the top of the vent window? the channel is loose at the top on mine. I have no new channel or seals that i can install, so i'm pretty well hosed there.

[Russ]

crap.

this is going to be more of a pain considering i have no glass on the window carrier right now. Also, what holds the channel in at the top of the vent window? the channel is loose at the top on mine. I have no new channel or seals that i can install, so i'm pretty well hosed there.

It's definetly not a fun job, and it can get worse when you get the doors apart and find that the window lower channel and the vent window frames are rusted out. Don't be discouraged though, it's all fixable. Having no glass won't be a problem as you just slide the lower glass channel off of the rollers. Notice which direction it goes as you can put it on the new window backwards if you aren't paying attention. Be careful if there's broken glass there. Restoration Specialties has all the rubber and seals you need. I'm not sure exactly what channel you are referring to at the top of the vent window. You'll have to cut the outer door seal in two places if you do it like Jeffc says. If you are going to replace the latch you will have to remove the upper frame anyway so you might want to take his advice and do it like he suggests. BTW, Jim MeGee's cd has some pictures that illustrate what you will be doing. If you don't already have one I'd definitely recommend getting one before you start.

[Jeffc]

crap.

this is going to be more of a pain considering i have no glass on the window carrier right now. Also, what holds the channel in at the top of the vent window? the channel is loose at the top on mine. I have no new channel or seals that i can install, so i'm pretty well hosed there.

Not sure what part you mean here, chanel= wing post chanel? this is held at the top buy the two screws described above. If the upper part of the wing frame is loose in the frame, more than likely the door top has been off at sometime (like in above post, the clip that the screw goes into has been broken at sometime>> if the lower part is loose were the wing frame meets the main door then the screw there is broken or missing).
Some of the early trucks (61 to 63) had more than just the 2 screws, here there is one screw down though the
rubber under the wing (like all later trucks) and 2 or 3 from the outside of the door top to hold wing frame (instead of the one though the rubber in the corner, upper corner facing front door frame in later trucks).
Both of the screws though the rubber are hidden and have to be found in the rubber around the wing frame.

If the whole wing frame is loose in the door, then you
may also have a rusted channel were it attaches to the bottem of the door inside (behind the lower hinge cover panel). However, this may not show with the good window in place.

It all sounds worse than it is, but once you have been though it "it's not so bad".

Because of the problem with the srcew in the top to hold the wing to the door top I often leave this loose without problems. There is enough support around the the wing frame to keep everything in place when good glass is in the door.

[heviarti]

Naw, I found the prob. i've got the 4 screw wing, but the parts truck is a 2. this kinda sux, The reason I was having trouble with the channel is because the riveted angle bracket that holds the channel to the vent frame is frabbed. the only support it has is at the base of the wing. front channel is also busted at the base, and the topside screw is not boming out. I also managed to lose the little rubber seal between the frame and the body of the door. Had to pull the top of the door.

The regulator off the parts truck was beautiful, but for the stud of the door channel arm was gone and tghe hole wallowed out. my old reg, and some stainless steel rod later, my window acts normal.

Now I need to yank the wing window carrier out of my parts unit and put it in my '64 (which I also nabbed some door locks for) since the latch stud is broken.

[49yearoldkid]

so r we having fun yat? lol just kiding been there done that.. i love my dodge...i love my dodge. i love my dodge. try saying it 100 times ...it helps ...lol good luck. and have fun with it.

[Jeffc]

Forgot to say that there is a differance between early and late attachments at the bottem of the wing chanel.
The late ones the bolt goes into the mount in the door, the early ones have the threads for the bolt in the chanel..... if I recall........

[martincom]

Just pulled the vent window assy on my '71 D100 in prep for paint. To clarify, the weatherstrip that is pulled back to access the hidden screws is the vent wing glass weatherstrip. There is one screw in the upper corner and the other was in the bottom channel between the pivot and the moving glass channel.

In the service manual, it states to replace the retainer (screw clip) that is for the screw in the upper corner. I'm gathering this is so that retainer can be secured to the vent wing channel and the vent glass weatherstrip seated prior to installation. The retainer would snap into place when the vent channel is fully seated. This would be quite a bit handier/easier than installing the screw once the channel is seated and then seating the weatherstrip in the channel.

I didn't have any success locating these retainers, PN: 2833484-5. However, I'm not sure if looked up the correct PN, as the parts manual indicated a different retainer for left & right. They look the same to me.

I haven't removed the retainer from the upper door frame, as I'm concerned about damaging it in the process.

What have you folks who have been down this road do?

[mopar]

This recent video from Coastal Auto Reaction C.A.R. may prepare you for some of the frustration involved with replacing a window.

Getting a 50 Year Old Dodge D100 Ready For Nicks Garage!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mw3M-mz-QQ4

Hope it helps.

[martincom]

Actually, the shop manual procedure is pretty straight forward---once I located the hidden screws that secure the vent wing. There were two, instead of one, as indicated in the manual, and I wasn't sure which weatherstripping the manual was referring to---the vent wing or the door weatherstrip. Of course, I started with the door weatherstrip with the idea the screw would be underneath it as it is with many others. The door weatherstrip also has to come off for paint, so it wasn't a wasted effort.

With the vent wing assy removed, removing the operating glass is pretty simple. The only issue that complicated it was the sealing flap that is a part of the operator channel setting was very stiff from age. So folding it flat to to make the operating channel narrow enough to fit through the belt line opening (belt lines removed also) was a bit challenging.

I'm still wondering if I can remove the upper vent window screw clip from the door upper frame without damaging it.

[martincom]

I was able to gently remove the vent wing upper screw clip/retainer, from the upper door frame, without issue.