Clutch
Clutch
Clutch issue.here's situation.if I sit in traffic awhile with clutch pushed in the truck will want to start moving and will be about impossible to pull out of gear like neutral to stop it.it only does this when I have clutch pushed in for awhile.other than that shifts fine.hydraulic leak? I can't find anything leaking master or slave? Only leak i notice is out of lid.never had a sweptline that didn't leak out of master lid.free play at pedal and slave is adjusted. Any ideas?
- Wildergarten
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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Re: Clutch
Air in the system will reduce the throw. My first suggestion is to get somebody to depress the pedal for you and measure the throw at the fork. Have them hold the pedal to the floor and see if it drifts back. Using typical ethylene glycol brake fluid in a clutch is (in my opinion) insane because it absorbs moisture and becomes corrosive. Unlike brakes, a clutch cylinder never gets hot enough to outgas much of the water, so the fluid becomes increasingly corrosive and therefore causes leaks. Assuming your master and slave cylinders are still OK, Dot 5 silicone (developed for the military) is by far preferable because it doesn't absorb water. NEVER mix the two. You'll need to purge the system with alcohol before purging the alcohol with the silicone fluid. I use it in all my trucks for brakes as well. DOT5 is purple to avoid confusion.matthew wrote: ↑Sat Jul 04, 2020 9:32 pmClutch issue.here's situation.if I sit in traffic awhile with clutch pushed in the truck will want to start moving and will be about impossible to pull out of gear like neutral to stop it.it only does this when I have clutch pushed in for awhile.other than that shifts fine.hydraulic leak? I can't find anything leaking master or slave? Only leak i notice is out of lid.never had a sweptline that didn't leak out of master lid.free play at pedal and slave is adjusted. Any ideas?
Heat warpage within the clutch itself or a distorted bell housing causing misalignment between transmission and the pilot bushing will do this and the implications of either are obvious. When doing a build, I always check bell housing alignment. Dodge used to make offset dowels to correct this, but I don't know where one would get them now.
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
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- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 7362
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
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Re: Clutch
Worn master cyl seal will allow fluid to bypass it while holding it down and the slave will drift back, engaging the clutch.
Re: Clutch
Thanks for response guys.i like idea of dot 5 fluid.not ready for that yet.pwrwgndrvr's response seems to make more sense to me as only time I seem to have this problem is when clutch is pushed in for more than a few minutes sitting in traffic.otherwise it shifts fine.i have actually shut truck off released clutch and it'll go back to nuetral.started back up and be fine.
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- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 7362
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Re: Clutch
When you're stuck in traffic, shift into neutral right away and get off the pedal. That will make the t/o bearing much happier. You can pump the pedal a couple times before shifting back into gear to build up pressure in the slave line.