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Just had my driver-side window drop out of the regulator. Turns out, it slipped off the rear roller. Doesn't seem to be much holding it all together. I tweaked the rear roller frame a bit to better hold the bottom of the window, and added grease here and there. No pics to share, but does this sound normal?

riffraff wrote: ↑

Sun May 27, 2018 6:01 pm

Just had my driver-side window drop out of the regulator. Turns out, it slipped off the rear roller. Doesn't seem to be much holding it all together. I tweaked the rear roller frame a bit to better hold the bottom of the window, and added grease here and there. No pics to share, but does this sound normal?

I have never had one fall apart in 43 years of owning Sweptline trucks. But it could happen. Maybe it has been apart and was not reinstalled correctly.

my window fell out too..
the regulator mechanism was mostly in good shape, but the track that holds the window was disintegrated and split from rusting.
the one rear clip had broken free from its spot welds and fell into the bottom of the door, where i found it.
i ended up rivetting the original brackets to a new piece of aluminum trim channel..





there's some more pics and good info in this old thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37787

That's a big help. Thanks for the pics and the link. I guess the rear, what you are calling a "clip," has fallen off. I did not look into the bottom of the door for pieces . I'll have open it back up and look around. I did notice the channel did have a bit of rust in that area, but it didn't look bad. Hopefully, it just cooked the spot welds. Didn't notice the rods at the ends of the channel, either. Hum...

I'm getting ready to try and fix this. Can I just take the top door frame of with the windwing in place. Any tips on removing the window from the track? Thanks, Tom!

coelcanth wrote: ↑

Sun May 27, 2018 10:23 pm

my window fell out too..
the regulator mechanism was mostly in good shape, but the track that holds the window was disintegrated and split from rusting.
the one rear clip had broken free from its spot welds and fell into the bottom of the door, where i found it.
i ended up rivetting the original brackets to a new piece of aluminum trim channel..





there's some more pics and good info in this old thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37787

I'm opening up this old thread because I have the exact same issue. I own a metal fabrication shop and plan to fabricate a new regulator "channel" with the brackets (the channel at the bottom of the window with the brackets that slips onto the regulator arm(s)) Like yours, mine has rusted out. My question is, how did you hold the window into the aluminum channel you made? The one bit of info I could find on getting the window secured into the regulator channel and gasket showed a video of someone with the window removed from the truck seating it with a mallet. Obviously I can't do this if the window is still in the door. I want to keep the window in the truck and avoid taking the top of the door apart because everything else is rust free, all rubber and seals are in good shape. My hope was to oversize the fabricated channel a bit and then somehow hold the window and rubber gasket into it once the window is set in place. Any suggestions?

Hope that makes sense.

Silicone would hold it in place permanently.
Or, if you can hold the window all the way "up", you might be able to pound the channel up, onto the bottom of the glass, while its in the door. Then attach the regulator.

The glass sits in a rubber boot, that in turn, sits in the steel channel. It is an interference fit. So there is no way I can think of that you'll be able to seat the glass while in the door.

That rubber "boot" also has a rubber flap/wing on it, that runs the length of the channel. It is about an inch or so wide. You can plainly see it in the photo in the post above yours. This flap somewhat seals the bottom of the glass channel to the bottom of the glass opening, when the window is up fully. Most of the time in trucks this old, it has disintegrated or crumbled off and what is left of the flap is laying in the bottom of the door.

Steele Rubber has replacements---but not an exact replacement. The channel width is slightly different. As you are fabricating a new channel, you can compensate for this when fabricating the channel.

You don't have to remove the top frame of the door to remove the window. However, you do have to remove the vent wing assembly. The factory service manual procedure is a little vague and the illustrations are lacking. I've never seen the CD, but there is a fellow (Jim, I think) that has created a CD on restoring sweptlines. From what I understand, it is pretty thorough. It is probably money well spent just for removing and installing the vent wing assembly. I fumbled my way through mine without it, but put a scratch in the new paint, at the bottom side of the upper frame, when re-assembling. Not to mention it took nearly 4 hours to do the first one. The second only took 30 minutes. Some days, I should learn to take my own advise........

Thanks for the info. I have the loose leaf parts catalog and service manual for the truck and this aspect is definitely vague.

I'm mucking with fabricating a replacement part with a channel with pressure plates actuated by set screws to hold the glass. The clearances are tight, but I'm cautiously optimistic at this point. I'll post pictures if I get it to work.

My rubber channel gasket is still in good shape. I assume the extra flap of rubber orients so it's sticking out towards the outside of the door?

Does anyone know if the regulators are the same for both side? Alos what years interchange?

purple70rt wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 01, 2023 2:34 am

Does anyone know if the regulators are the same for both side? Alos what years interchange?

Not the same - lefts and rights.
2 versions: 61-66 and 67-71.

The 67-71 version also was continued on through the 72-73 500-800 series medium duty trucks, as those still had Sweptline cabs.

Bucky

Thanks guys!