1967 d100 sweptline shortbed project start

[Drummerdad]

I originally bought this truck for my son, who was 16 at the time. He got sick last Thanksgiving, and after 4 months in the ICU at Vanderbilt childrens hospital, he passed away on the 28th of March, 2018. I normally dont post personal business, and Im not posting for sympathy. I just wanted to convey how important this is to me and my family. He asked us to keep the truck and finish it the way he wanted. I have every intention of doing that, the best way I know how.

The truck is a 67 dodge d100 sweptline short bed. The last owner modified the frame with the front clip off of an 85 dodge truck, with the a-arm suspension, 318, and 727 trans. He also swapped it out for a 71 front grill, because I guess he could get one of those. I know the truck will never be a show truck, or even restored, but thats not what Isaac, or my wife and I want anyway. We want a street truck, thats usable and works. I started searching for parts, and realized this is going to be difficult. Just finding a tailgate seemed to be impossible. I know you guys know this stuff too, so I wont complain. We are all in the same boat. If I wanted easy, I would have bought a chevy from the 70s or 80s.
While searching for parts I ran across a truck for sale on ebay. It had a few usable parts, so I bought it, and we drug it home this past weekend. It has the following parts I think I can use; front fenders, hood, inner splash gaurds, a/c compressor, a/c evap (it a bit warped, but it might be salvageable, with a custom box), front grill, front bumper, pie pans, windshield wiper arms and cowl mounts, steering column, dash, glove box, and ....a great tailgate. Im sure it has several more usable parts, Ill have to look into it.

Ill post pictures in a few minutes when I can figure out how. Im excited to have so many good parts. We plan on just putting the correct front end back on, grill and fenders and hood, and then adding the tailgate, steering column, dash, and some other parts. We just want a complete (mostly) 67 that works, and looks good. It isnt what I would call a rat truck. Itll be a survivor, and we will work on getting it looking better over time. Again, itll never be a show truck. But I wouldnt mind a "10 footer."

[Drummerdad]

Here is the truck as it sits now.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_iAc_ ... sp=sharing

Here are a few shots of the parts truck.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vW9fwl ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YQ9J1t ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_io20i ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vsoXkk ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ai3A8T ... sp=sharing

I have many more picture. There are some questions I have though. There is a plastic tank under the bed on the right side of the truck. The cap is in the fender well. What is this? An extra gas tank, or a water tank? This is the camper edition. There is also an electric plug sticking out of the grill. I though maybe it was a block heater. It goes to something in the lower radiator hose. What is it? Also, how much hate am I going to get if I cut the floor out of the bad, to use in my truck? The short bed came with the wood bed, and its toast. I was going to use the metal bed and shorten it.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The tank, rad hose wire and a/c are all aftermarket stuff.
The white steering wheel, horn ring and button is a nice score too!

[Hobcobble]

Welcome to the site.
Looks like that D200 Camper Special should yield
most of what you need to get the D100 looking
original. For any other parts you're in need of, be sure
to post up what you're looking for in the Parts Wanted
section. There are lots of very knowledgeable folks
here who can help you and your wife continue on with
what your son began.

I'm sorry that you and your family to have to deal with
such a tragedy.

John

[TheMopars]

Nice looking truck, should be sweet when you're finished. I have a 64' and I'm just learning here
myself so won't be much help. Not sure if you've driven the truck yet but those modern Challenger/
Charger rims didn't work on my truck. They seem like the fit but they're off a little and will evenutally
shear off the studs, at least on my 64', not certain it's any different for you're truck.

Sorry to hear about your son. Hope this project helps in that regard and your son lives on through it.

[Conrad]

Thank you for sharing your story and your sons project truck here. It seems like the truck is well on its way already. But you’re right, there will be plenty of head scratching and creative parts sourcing for sure. Can’t wait to see the results!

Depending on your skills if you haven’t already had an experienced fabricator welder take a look at the frame, if only for piece of mind. There are quite a few highly skilled folks here and I’m sure they will chime in.

[wally426ci]

I'm really sorry to hear about your sons passing. The project truck looks very cool.

I like that auxiliary tank; you may want to figure out how to use it or I may be interested in it if it comes up for sale. Not sure how many gallons it holds.

I say work with what you have so hack away at the bed floor and sell everything that is left from it.

[Drummerdad]

Thank you all for the responses. I hope to get started soon. I just got the garage cleaned out, and got my wiring harness from Ron Francis. I hope to get started by the weekend. The aux tank and camper badges will be for sale, along with any other parts I dont need. This is an 8 lug truck, so I think its 3/4 ton. As far as the modern charger rims, I had to use spacers to clear the spindle in the front. And because the previous owner used a modern a-arm front suspension, it was wider than the rear, and looked silly. So I added spacers in the back too. I hope to change it in the future, and get it right. Until then, itll have to work. The truck ran when it was parked 6 months ago. I pulled the wiring because it had a lot of issues. I started with an ebay harness, and quickly realized that wouldnt work. I also have plans for metal repairs. I can bend and fabricate, but Im not a welder. A friend gave me a little welder this week to help, and my oldest daughters boyfriend is a certified welder and fabricator. I also know several very good welders. I should be able to get some repairs done. In the mean time, I just want a working truck.

[Drummerdad]

So I started with the wiring. Then I ran into a little issue. Im not sure what the previous owner has done. I think the alternator pictured below is from the engine and frame clip, which I was told is from an 85. It is different from the alternator on the engine in the parts truck. I think it is externally regulated, because I also have what appears to be a regulator. I am hoping someone here can help me by telling me what it is. I need to know so I can figure out how to wire this thing.

I got the dash out, and test fitted the 67 grill. I like the way it looks. Itll look better with the bumper. Ill have to swap the hood, and maybe the radiator support. Im prepared to swap the entire front sheet metal over if necessary. I also ordered my gauges and ignition today. Should be coming along nicely by the end of the week.





https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H219Fz ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aqHFyc ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gpU_ub ... sp=sharing

[stumblinhorse]

The alternator looks to be a externally regulated 2 field lug model. You will need an external voltage regulator for it and probably will need to ground one of the lugs if not already grounded to the case.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The alternator looks to be a externally regulated 2 field lug model. You will need an external voltage regulator for it and probably will need to ground one of the lugs if not already grounded to the case.

No such thing as a "2 field alternator". 69-71 use an "isolated field" alternator with an electronic regulator in the ground side of the field. Neither lug on the alt will be grounded. 68 and earlier use a grounded field alt (one lug grounded) and the regulator is in the positive side of the field.

[Drummerdad]

I'm almost positive this is not a 60s or 70s alternator. The previous owner said the engine was from an 85 truck. I'm also pretty sure one of the lugs was grounded. Not sure if this helps though.

[stumblinhorse]

The alternator looks to be a externally regulated 2 field lug model. You will need an external voltage regulator for it and probably will need to ground one of the lugs if not already grounded to the case.

No such thing as a "2 field alternator". 69-71 use an "isolated field" alternator with an electronic regulator in the ground side of the field. Neither lug on the alt will be grounded. 68 and earlier use a grounded field alt (one lug grounded) and the regulator is in the positive side of the field.

I am obviously not as smart as you about this stuff. But here is a picture of the back of a 2 field lug alternator. This is what I put on my truck while I am having the original alternator rebuilt.

[coelcanth]

i think all these pics are of the same chrysler square back alternator..
i don't know much about the ins and outs of the alternator types, but i do know that my '69 truck was upgraded by a PO with the square back and solid state regulator, so that's what i use.
the wiring is still very simple, but you might need the plug end to go from an original 60's harness into the newer regulator.
if you need, it's also straightforward to take apart the alternator if it needs internal work, and it was easy for me to find replacement parts locally.


here's some more info from "Pete's" post on a different mopar forum:

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... or.317918/
""
In the 60's and 70's Chrysler used three basic styles of alternators. Up to 1969 they were round back, single field terminal alternators. One field brush was internally grounded, used an electro-mechanical regulator and the diodes were pressed fit into heat sinks in the rear of the alternator. These alternators did not produce much output at idle and were good for 30 to 45 amps depending on engine size and whether A/C was installed on the car.

1970 and 71 saw the introduction of electronic voltage regulation and the round back alternator now had both brushes brought out to insulated terminals. One brush was connected to 12 volts with the ignition on and the other brush connected to the regulator which provided a variable path the ground.

1972 and up saw the square back alternator introduced. It had a higher output at engine idle and was available in versions up to 60 amps. The big change was in the rear casting of the alternator which was redesigned to use a cheaper pellet diode rectifier assemblies rather than the older press fit diodes and heat sinks.

In many cases if it will physically fit the square back unit will give you a better output at idle and a little more maximum output. They are completely electrically interchangeable with the 70 and 71 round backs and can be used on 69 and earlier cars if you ground one brush terminal. This assumes you don't care too much about original appearance.
""

and from the same thread, "67Dart" gives more detail:

""
Don't confuse "square back" with "isolated field." The "dual field" (wrong terminology) isolated field alternator came out in 1970 with the newer style electronic regulator The "square back" didn't come out until a year or two later.

(The isolated field round back is still pictured in the 71 shop manual, squareback in 72)

You can ground one field terminal of any isolated field unit and use a 69/ earlier style regulator.

Other than being electronic, there is no real advantage to changing the circuit. That is, grounded or isolated, you can build good regulators either way. You CAN BUY good regulators for the older grounded field.

The advantage, then, of a "square back" is what?

The advantage is, that the square back marks a design change that puts out more amperage at lower RPM.

If you are willing to run some of the newer Mopar or Denso stuff, it gets even better in that regard.
""

[stumblinhorse]

I stayed away from the "square back" term since it doesn't look all that square to me!

But yes, it is a simple replacement with the newer type alternator as long as it is an "external regulator" type. I have it plugged into my original "stock" VR on the firewall. I added a ground from the 2nd FLD lug to the ground on the VR.

The replacement from NAPA was $41 with no core. So I can keep driving while the original is being rebuilt.

[hmaynord]

So I started with the wiring. ... the alternator pictured below is ... different from the alternator on the engine in the parts truck. I think it is externally regulated ... I need to ... figure out how to wire this thing.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gpU_ub ... sp=sharing

that looks like the same Ron Rrancis Express kit that I am using. I suggest that you call RF and talk this through with them. The info that the others gave you is great, but It doesn't really matter what these parts were used for in the past. What you need to know is how to use what you have with the RF kit. You want to follow their instructions, so that they can help you troubleshoot down the road.

I don't know enough to tell you whether or not you have an externally regulated alternator.
I DO have one, which goes back to a 1978 update to a transistorized system.
Here is what RF told me to do, and it works for me: buy their external regulator and follow their instructions, which include grounding one of the field terminals on the alternator.

[Drummerdad]

Thank you. That's what i plan on doing. I read the instructions and it says to install it exactly the way they say, so I'm going to call and talk to them. I had to do a lot of guessing when I ordered the wiring harness. The truck is a 67, but the engine and ignition, and even the column are newer (even though I want to install the original column from my parts truck). Plus I just ordered new gauges. I'm sure they can figure it out with me. I'll post when I get it looking better. Shouldn't be too long.