New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby PwrWgnDrvr » Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:16 pm

Sounds more like it was a slant 6 with 3 spd trans. Any sign that it was a column shift at one time?
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:58 pm

Yea, I think you are right. The data tag info and also there is a hole in the firewall just above the steering column that was likely for the three speed shift shaft. Having never seen one in the wild, I have no idea if that's the correct hole placement, but it sure looks like it.

This is turning out to be Frankentruck.
But so far,...all the changes have been upgrades as far as I'm concerned. This thing will never be a show truck,...far far from it. Just a beast to work with around here, and occasionally go to town for materials, etc.

Looks like my drivers door has been replaced also. No lock cylinder hole I've been told is from a single earlier year.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby kabdrvr » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:39 am

I have a 63 D100 with the original poly 318. The original carb is a stromberg ww3-204a. Other than possible changes to linkage, I would think this model carb would be the correct ww 3 for your truck. I also have a poly 318 in a '65 d200 without the original carb and I don't see any reason the ww3 wouldn't work in it.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:25 am

Ok, for an update.
What I wanted to do first is get the engine running well.
So, I got a good carter carb from a member here and tried it out. Engine wouldn''t run at idle and was backfiring up through the carb. I checked everything.
Now remember,...this truck had just about everything wrong with it you could imagine when I got it. Wrong carb, three plugs with no gap, points with 80 thou gap, plug wires on the wrong plug, etc.

I went through everything and got it all right. Still no love.

So,....at the suggestion of my local NAPA guy, he said to "check and see if all the valves are moving, could be a wiped cam".
I checked and ,..UGHHH @!!!! Number eight and six intake valves were not moving. I even took a video but can't post that here.

THinking that I was screwed, I slept on the it, and the next morning I went down to it and noticed this time that the valves were stuck OPEN,...not shut. A wiped cam lobe would mean shut.....SOOOOO,...what I did was tap on the rocker with a mallet and "TINK" each one of them snapped back into place. Stuck lifters !!!
So, I removed all the plugs and cycled the engine by hand (Not too easy to do with a poly V8,..got a few blisters) and after a few cycles and tapping them back down they worked themselves loose.

SO,..everyone can add that one to their list of "what it might be" when you encounter intake backfires.
I don't blame the lifters,...here's a shot of what the rockers looked like when I popped the covers.
YUK!!


image.jpeg
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:33 am

The poly motor is weird in that you cannot pull the rocker stands, and not wanting to flush all that crap down into the engine, I spent a WHOLE lot of time tucking little rolled up bits of cloth in and around the pushrods to seal them off and also put plugs in the oil return holes in the head. I then went to town with Brakleen and brushes. They cleaned up pretty well in my opinion. Here's the result:
image.jpeg
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:45 am

But unfortunately, I've got other problems still.
The engine still will not idle. The timing jumps all around when viewed with the timing light... like a few inches up and down the pulley.
So I'm thinking there's something wrong with the distributor. The clincher was when I swapped the Carter carb with an original Stromberg. The engine did not change it's characteristics one bit. Still won't idle. It runs great when revved, but when you let off... it hunts around a bit, and lags in return to idle, and then when it returns to idle, it dies. I've tried every adjustment on the carbs there is,...going half turns in sequence and trying it till I ran out of turns.. I tried every timing setting there is....advanced, retarded, spot on ten advanced, and everything in between. Still won't idle.

So,...I'm working on getting a known good distributor to swap out for diagnostics. We'll see.

In the mean time, I had a huge rats nest of wiring to deal with.
image.jpeg

It has been suggested to me that this might have been a Bureau of Land Management truck or a municipal vehicle.
There are switches in the dash for ::

Dump bed,
Snowplow upper headlights,
Trailer brakes,
Backup light,
Etc.

All these switches and controls are labeled with the old 3M style embossed labels and certainly look like vintage 66.
None of this stuff is still with the truck so I guess they stripped it when they sold it..
I spent a day and a half getting all the electrics in order. Everything works now,...even the dash lights and interior lights.
When I first started, barely anything worked. And it had weird problems like when you hit the brakes, the front left marker light would light up too. Weird.
But it's all fine now, so while I'm waiting on the distributor, I decided to jump into doing the brakes...
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:14 pm

Here's a question,...how do I get this rear drum off?

I see where it's cast as one piece.

I got the nuts off,..but it wont budge.
Is there a circlip or something inside the differential that I have to remove too?

I have a manual but it doesn't show this style brakes. Weird.

Here are a few shots. What do I have here?
What kind of rear is this? Also,...another weird thing,...the lug nuts on the passenger side are reverse threads. Is this normal?


IMG_0258.JPG
That light colored bar is sunlight shining through some part of the flatbed.

IMG_0259.JPG
What kind of rear end is this?

IMG_0260.JPG
Also,..the lug nuts on the passenger side are reverse thread. Weird.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby soopernaut » Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:19 pm

It is a Dana 60. Put the nuts back on the hub studs to protect the threads and beat the center of it with a big hammer. You need to pull the axle shafts to get the drums off.

The reverse threads on one side of the truck are correct for this era. I was thinking it was the driver's side though. :thinking
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:32 pm

I found this thread, and I think it basically answers my question.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1560

So,..no circlips on the inboard end of the axles...and the axle should slide out now that I've got the retainer nuts off.
Problem is....mine won't "slide" even after repeated blows with a hammer.
I only beat on things so much before I stop and do some checking before something breaks,..that's why I'm posting this question. Am I just facing fourty years of corrosion?

Just to set the tone here,...this truck sat for a LONG time.
Here's the tires that are on it. When was the last time you saw a full set of these with this much tread?
IMG_0261.JPG
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:36 pm

Thanks for the reply Soopernaut.
I was working the last post while you were answering.

So,..it's just supposed to slide out. Ok,..but both your reply and the archived thread I found say to beat on the axle flange. Is it that the beating on it will get it to jar loose and "bounce",...because it has to come out not in, and beating is definitely an "inward" force.
Is it just to get it to sort of "pop" back?
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:50 pm

This thing is not moving.
I've beat and beat, and also took a huge chisel with a wide point and tried to drive it between the axle flange and the drum casting...no dice. What's next?
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:01 pm

Here's a shot of what I'm doing.
Driving this huge low angle wedge in between the axle flange and the brake drum housing. This is just making a divot,..and not moving this axle. I am using a six pound hammer and swinging it pretty freely.
It's either going to crack the drum casting, or distort the axle flange.

Am I missing something here?

image.jpeg

Should I take the torch and heat this up to get it to pop?

Reason I want to get this off is because I can almost guarantee the rear brake cylinders need replacing.
Also want to free up the frozen emergency brake cable.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:17 pm

HAH !!

It just popped.
I shot it with some penentrant, and tapped the sides of it all around for a while.
Then some solid blows to the center like y'all said,...and POP.
Thanks !

Now to see how it looks in there.

I learned from the archived thread about the big nuts and how critical it is to get them back on right.

Should I just go to NAPA for wheel cylinders, or is there a common "go to" part supplier known here on this forum for new stuff like that?

Thanks again,

Steve in Auburn
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:56 pm

Rear axle covered in grit rust and sludge.
Looks like I'm going to pull the pumpkin cover and flush that whole mess out.
photo.JPG
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:59 pm

The Big Nuts,...looks like Cletis or Homer just beat them "tight" with a hammer and chisel.
No need for the lock tabs,...it's not like if this comes loose the whole axle falls out or anything.....

It never ceases to amaze me....

photo.JPG
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 2:03 pm

Sometimes ya just need the old...
photo.JPG
Had these for years, only used a few times, but when you need it,..you need it.
Attachments
photo.JPG
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby getawheel » Mon Sep 25, 2017 2:11 pm

Looks like the lock ring may be under there just not bent up onto the nut? Last guy didn't have the socket obviously. Also, the left hand threads should be on the left side, so drums probably got swapped L to R.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby hmaynord » Mon Sep 25, 2017 4:08 pm

SteveH wrote:
Should I just go to NAPA for wheel cylinders, or is there a common "go to" part supplier known here on this forum for new stuff like that?

Steve in Auburn


I just got my brake parts from Rock Auto. On the D100, the rear WCs are the same, but each front is different - hose connection comes out an angle. You'll want to change all the brake hoses - D100 has 3.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby PwrWgnDrvr » Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:44 pm

LH threads are on the left (drivers) side!
There are split cones that lock the axle flange in. When the nut tightens, the cones wedge into the flange and lock the flange to the stud. Beating on the EDGE of the flange at each stud will pop them out.
There are TWO lock nuts on the axle with a tabbed lock ring between. IF THEY COME LOOSE THE WHEELS WILL FALL OFF THE TRUCK!!!! Often they are tightened with a cold chisel. BEND THE TABS WHEN DONE!
The scale on the axle shaft looks typical.
The rocker arms were most likely corroded to the rocker shaft rather than the lifters stuck. The adjustment studs indicate it has mechanical, rather than hydraulic lifters. You should have removed the shafts and rockers and cleaned any internal rust.
Likely u also have sunken valve seats from unleaded gas. After cleaning the rocker shafts, adjust valve lash, then do a compression test.
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Re: New Member,..Just bought a 66 W200

Postby SteveH » Mon Sep 25, 2017 8:38 pm

SteveH wrote:The Big Nuts,...looks like Cletis or Homer just beat them "tight" with a hammer and chisel.
No need for the lock tabs,...it's not like if this comes loose the whole axle falls out or anything.....

It never ceases to amaze me....


Thanks guys for the tip about the reverse threaded drum being on the drivers side. Yes, they must have been switched at some point. I haven't pulled the fronts yet, so we'll see how that works out.

I quoted myself here because yes,...I know that the two nuts are critical. I am an A&P, (Licensed aircraft mechanic) so mechanical stuff is the fun part for me, and about that,...I know my way around a little.
I do so like working on terrestrial vehicles,..so much cheaper, and if there's a problem,..it's unlikely anybody dies, haha.

There's a fellow who works at my local NAPA who is a big fan of older Dodge iron and he's taken an interest in my project. They've been able to find all the stuff I am needing for this brake job, some on hand, and the rest on an overnight run,..and I am amazed at how cheap all this stuff is.
My last project was an early (1955) Porsche, and man,...after doing one of those, you'll never complain about parts prices again, haha.

As for the lifters, yes, it definitely was the lifters, not the rockers. The rockers were loose when relaxed, and I could tap the rocker in a little and it would move itself and the pushrod a little forward,...then it would have "wiggle" but there was a still travel to be had to get to the cam face,...so it was the lifter that was hung up. Yes, mechanical lifters, and yes, there was (and is) proper gap. I think this engine has really low mileage, and this truck was likely parked when gas still had lead in it. And even if it was driven a little with unleaded, the lead deposits do have a fairly long presence once established.
It has just sat for a long long time.

As for compression testing,...I'm not a fan. It doesn't tell you much.
I'm more into leak downs, now that'll tell ya something.
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